What to do!

Well I've just got a Series 3 Truckcab 88" and its all very original apart from 12J engine fitted instead of Petrol. I was toying with the idea of keeping it as original as possible and putting a 3/4 tilt on the back as all the Galvanised metal work connecting to the cab is in place but the cab roof is dented to xxxx! and wondered whether to take off old roof and put on a full tilt what is everyones feelings on the subject?

I find the full tilt to be pretty practical - a bit drafty but at least it doesn't leak much and not as bad as condensation in a normal cab. Saves a bit of weight and you can roll it up in a few minutes in the summer.

As to the engine, it depends how much you want to spend and how many miles you do. I've spent a good bit of money on my souped up 2.25 petrol and am about to break even in terms of gallons saved but I use it as a daily drive...it's still not as efficient as your diesel will be but it drives lovely.

Thanks Dom think I'll stick with the Doozul and probably go for the 3/4 tilt just not sure whether to or not as you dont see that many about.

Hi, I have a series 3 88" I use a truck cab in the winter, in the summer I take it off and go topless! I have a bikini canvas top in case it rains. Great fun!

Getting hold of the tooth rail that runs along the top of the windsceen and the infills above the doors can be a problem with fitting a full tilt, but the full tilt is obviously a lot easier to convert to topless and easier to store a rag top than a load of bodywork.

I think the full canvas looks awesome, go for it! Finding parts may be tricky and heck it might get a bit cold but its only afternoons work to change the roof over isnt it.

Truck cab in the winter - fill tilt in the summer. That's what I do. Change em over April / September.

Agree with dominicbeesley regarding the engine. I chucked a load of cash at my petrol last year and am very happy with how it goes. Thirst is an issue so depends on how much you want to use it. But the petrols are much more refined than the diesels - not so noisey too.

I find the canvas ok in winter, a good one doesn't leak. Also it is relatively draft free and doesn't drop condensation down yer neck like a tin-top. I'm not sure about the noise but I seem to remember a tin top being just as noisy on the road - most of the noise comes from inside the motor after all..Removing snow from the roof (if you can be bothered) involves thumping the roof from the inside...

Agreed, my tilt doesn't leak at all - the doors, front bulkhead and roof seal do though.......
Like the idea of bashing the roof for snow removal - we get a lot here in Bavaria.

I tend to bung an old coat in front of the bulkead vents though as last year I drove up to the north in a snow storm and froze my nuts off - despite the jackets, sleeping bag and hat. It was -15 C though.

Back to the engine - I did have a lot of tappet troubles after rebuilding my engine. The first set got very noisy after about 70 miles. I stripped the engine back down and found poor quality rollers were to blame. Two were flat spotted!!
Ordered a decent set and put them in but no 5 rocker still needs regular adjustment - the engine has now done about 2000 miles.

Any ideas? It does have a Britpart cam shaft in it - but I have been assured its good.

Only problem with now having a engine with more ooomph is the gearbox is getting a bit knocky. Something I can live with for now though

I've not been out in -15 (it tends not to get that cold here) but it was -10 here and I was down to a T-shirt after an hour or so:
- I hang a blanket behind the seats with a gap for rear-view
- I've got a decent heater matrix and have given it a good clean.
- Fitted the blower off a defender - a bit of a squeeze and some bodging but a bit more air flow

I've had similar problems with rockers, mines an ACR camshaft. One follower had got a load of groves in it. I've rebuilt and done about 2,000 miles since and now its starting to sound ready for the tappets doing but not bad, hopefully its just settling in this time.

An ACR cam is worth the money if you can afford it - better low down torque. The head's also worth while for unleaded, higher (9:1) compression and polished ports. I've also stuck on a DMTL carb and tuned it up and get between 21 and 23mpg at 60-80 on the motorway, 26mpg at 50mph steady and 21mpg pottering around.

Dome some of that - increase compression - Iveco valves machined to fit as the stainless ones can gaul. Was thinking of sexing up the cam but initially used the old one as it look good - until the tappets scuffed it. So then just bought a standard. Not getting 26 but 21 - 23 all day and every day. Even if I am towing. Just bought back my Series 1 from west Germany on a trailer 14 hours round trip. The motor went well and quite happy sitting at 55. The drive really losened it up too.

I am thinking the same regarding the tappets - just hope they are wearing in.

Good to talk.

Cheers