What Stone Chip Brand?

Hi

I am rebuilding my Defender and I would like suggestions on what are the best options of stone chip brand I can get to spray under the tub and wings, please.

Also, please let me know how I should pre-treat under the tub and wings to apply the stone chip.

Thanks.

Check out buzzweld. Then bilt hambler. Then raptor. Then Schulz.

Consider epoxy zinc phosphate primers. Look at epoxy mastic paints.

Whatever you do, be sure it doesn't become a moisture trap.

Dinitrol - cavity wax, external wax & stone chip.

I'm looking at options myself as im new to the land rover world, as ive always had japanese sports cars or classic's that rust but here's what i have tried:

Depending on budget with this type of thing and how bad the underside is. I have steam cleaned, then degreased, wire wheeled then sprayed a 2k epoxy primer and the top coated with a chassis black and treated the inside drain holes with a lance with some oil based liquid that was provided to me by a friend. That was on a MG Midget 1970, it was entered into a show hence the prep as we did a full bare metal resto on it.

I've had luck with POR 15 on other cars but its gets very expensive quickly it is strong though but for the chassis its a good option to consider. A Nato grade rust treatment i found on amazon I'm trying that really shifts rust but it's only been on for 2 years and top coated it with Buzzweld chassis black, its holding up well. That's reasonable priced.

Shultz is ok, but personally i just see it when people are trying to hide rust for MOT work or sell a car on. Its good stuff but some people cake it on and are not careful about it. The fun becomes when you need to remove a part that you covered your be wishing you hadn't use so much. Does work well for sound deadining though so on top of Raptor in an arch might work but i have seen it hold moisture and rust underneath it for body work. Providing the base isn't damaged it should be ok but its one to keep an eye on.

Bilt hammer for paint in arch and Dintrol for the cavity wax could be mid range choice costs being considered and they do a metal etch and prep an ive seen some good work with those and raptor inside the arches.

Raptor It's easy to clean down with the jetspray then after being in the mud but not to everyones taste but its not cheap.

Some primers trap water in them if your taking time to do the work over months and not all in one weekend. I had to redo paint for my car once as it bubbled under it after a month in primer.

Contaminates left under a coating can trap moisture and ruin the covering and you might not see the rust till its bubbled up. Some covering just don't mix and its worth checking to what you use. Water based and oil based. Just worth checking the ones you choose work together. I tend to use a system for the coverings as there made to work together as i mentioned the POR 15 had that on a car for 5 years and its still looks good but its not taken out in bad weather.

I'm looking to raptor the bottom of the door's and sills colour coded and arches in mine in a few month once ive got the security sorted on mine. From what i have seen of a few friends when raptor when used with their undercoat it really holds up well to the knocks and scraps. These are on working farm 4x4's.

Interested to know how your getting on with it and what you choose?

Ben

@bendisco , over the years I've used all the above mentioned products on a wide, wide range of historic/older vehicles. Here are my findings/experiences:

The bad:
1. Schultz/Stone Chip - whilst this works when relatively new and does look very good it quickly contracts/peels at edges and panel creases leading to moisture entrapment leading to rust.
2. WaxOyl - we all used to use this but it's simply out of date now, messy to work with, has poor creep characteristics and does trap moisture.

The okay:
1. POR-15 chassis paint - it's okay but is affected by UV and really needs many coats - inversely, the POR-15 pigment engine paints are the very best available.
2. Frost/Westwood chassis paint - very similar to POR-15 chassis paint.
3. Builthamber Hydrate80 - it's okay as a rust encapsulator but needs to be applied very carefully. It has a tendency to trap air between the metal and Hydrate80 leading to moisture trapping and rust spotting.

The good:
1. Dinitrol - all their products work superbly and are my go to supplier.
2. Buzzweld - used their chassis primers and spray on black chassis paints for the Ninety refurb' two years ago. It's very good, easy to apply and has lasted very well. After a soapy jetwash the whole chassis still looks new [I used Dinitrol inside the full chassis and on the rear cross member over the Buzzweld].
3. Raptor - is the absolute best on the market but not from their spray cans as they have a tendency to blotch out of the 2k cans - it's perfect from a spray gun [I use an Apollo1200 SprayMaster HVLP unit]. It's the toughest truck bed under body finish out there and should I build another Land Rover it'll be a galvanised chassis, T-washed, primed and Raptor'ed for me.
4. UPOL - all of the UPOL products are simply first rate, especially their primers [and their superb Tiger Seal...it sticks like nothing else].
5. BuiltHamber - their chassis treatments and waxes are very good finishing products. Their Dynax UB and UC are nearly as good as Dinitrol, same with their Electrox Zinc Rich Primer.

Yet to be used/tested:

Lanoguard - I like the principle of Lanoguard, its material make up and environmental credentials. I'll be testing it on the Forester this coming summer as the suspension components and subframes are showing light surface rust, this is typical Subaru. Although it needs respraying annually the application is very easy. I'll report back in two years time...