What primer do i use on aluminium

IDK... said:

Has anyone ever used the epoxy primer?

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Yes, but you have to 1. carefully prepare the surface beforehand, the metal needs to be have a very good even key, then clean back, degrease, dry and tack off. 2. make sure the epoxy is of a self-etching type, not just a mechanical bonding epoxy.

IDK... said:

Has anyone ever used the epoxy primer?

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That would be a No from Me.

Probably no good for a fancy job or spraying but for areas like underneath that can be brushed and are more about just getting some protection than a smooth finish then this is great. https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/special-metals-primer/

I've just done under my seat box with it.
Sticks really well and seems happy with most top coats i've tried. Under here i'll use hammerite satin black but I have tried a bit of my HMG enamel top coat and it's good. Everyone seems to want such different levels of finish on their Landies so i'm not sure if it's of any interest to you.

Bobsticle said:

Painting a heap in anything once every twenty years ain’t going to give you cancer for gods sake.
Different if your bathing in it ever day for your job.

Just squint a bit and dampen the hankey round your face.

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There-in lies the problem with a general public view of 2k and isocyanates. There are 100's of cases of folk working with isocyanates for the first time without the correct PPE who either 1. develop 2k and paint/paint vapour sensitivity with first use, 2. abuse the working environment breathing in isocyanate particle vapour and suffer life long respiratory illness or worse. Isocyanate, in all its forms, is not to be treated lightly.

My health warning to All when using 2k isocyante...in fact, all industrial paints is: "Your health/life is in your hands..."

I've also used gallons of this stuff. https://www.mymotorworld.com/autote...MInpa81M-TggMVCMbtCh1kmAckEAQYDSABEgJcTfD_BwE
Although mine have never had the fancy orange cap. You can get it cheaper than that. I think all i'm doing here is demonstrating what a cheapskate amateur I am.

v8250 said:

There-in lies the problem with a general public view of 2k and isocyanates. There are 100's of cases of folk working with isocyanates for the first time without the correct PPE who either 1. develop 2k and paint/paint vapour sensitivity with first use, 2. abuse the working environment breathing in isocyanate particle vapour and suffer life long respiratory illness or worse. Isocyanate, in all its forms, is not to be treated lightly.

My health warning to All when using 2k isocyante...in fact, all industrial paints is: "Your health/life is in your hands..."

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But 40 fags a day is fine

Bobsticle said:

But 40 fags a day is fine

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We're not discussing your smoking habits.

We're discussing the very serious damage to health when using 2k with isocyanates. I'm surprised at you @Bobsticle , didn't put you down as an irresponsible illiterate, and in this case we're helping/giving clear and proper safety recommendation to a.n.other who has little-to-no paint spraying experience and :. what he/she needs to be aware of before even contemplating this type of work.

Next you'll be telling us it's perfectly safe to buzz back aluminium bodywork for key-in without using any respiratory protection, despite the horrendous damage to lungs from aluminium dust particles. Remind me never to engage you as safety advisory.

Does the Hammerite special metals primer lift existing paint like some etch primers, or can it be used in localised areas of bear metal on body panels.

Reason I ask is that have been stripping back to bare metal, but some areas are resisting my efforts - if I can apply directly to the bare areas without it lifting the existing paint on the awkward spots it will save me a lot of heartache.

BeeBoy said:

Does the Hammerite special metals primer lift existing paint like some etch primers, or can it be used in localised areas of bear metal on body panels.

Reason I ask is that have been stripping back to bare metal, but some areas are resisting my efforts - if I can apply directly to the bare areas without it lifting the existing paint on the awkward spots it will save me a lot of heartache.

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You are over thinking this.
Don't think of it like painting a car, you will end up with a better finish than it had when it came out of the factory.
Think of it like painting an old tractor, which is more or less what it is.
Get off the loose stuff, quick sand to give a key on the old paint, wash off thoroughly.
Brush, etch primer, another brush, topcoat. Let it dry and give it another topcoat.
Jobs a goodun.

BeeBoy said:

Does the Hammerite special metals primer lift existing paint like some etch primers, or can it be used in localised areas of bear metal on body panels.

Reason I ask is that have been stripping back to bare metal, but some areas are resisting my efforts - if I can apply directly to the bare areas without it lifting the existing paint on the awkward spots it will save me a lot of heartache.

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BTW. I just realised you are someone else. My comment was aimed at @IDK... , but also applies to you.

Thanks, @Turboman - I guessed as much. I just started by getting flaky stuff off and then, in true ‘5 minute landrover job’ it all kinda spiralled out of control.

Last paint job has been on and untouched for 12 years, so it was always going to be more than just a touch-up. Advice much appreciated.

The Hammerite does seem to stick to and cover everything. My landy seems to have had at least three paint jobs over the years that were peeling, flaking or corroding to different levels. That aerosol stuff I mentioned earlier reacted with some of the layers and wrinkled up but the Hammerite just stays calm and gets on with all the old stuff. It’s the friendliest paint I know.

I’m amazed I’m still alive. I once walked under a ladder and everything.

The health and safety industry. Making money off nonsense for almost twenty years

LincolnSteve said:

Probably no good for a fancy job or spraying but for areas like underneath that can be brushed and are more about just getting some protection than a smooth finish then this is great. https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/special-metals-primer/

I've just done under my seat box with it. View attachment 301002
Sticks really well and seems happy with most top coats i've tried. Under here i'll use hammerite satin black but I have tried a bit of my HMG enamel top coat and it's good. Everyone seems to want such different levels of finish on their Landies so i'm not sure if it's of any interest to you.

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That is exactly the combination I used to do all of my series (twice at 10 year intervals). Hammarite special metal primer applied with brush/gloss roller, followed by HMG enamel top coat applied with brush/gloss roller.

BeeBoy said:

Does the Hammerite special metals primer lift existing paint like some etch primers, or can it be used in localised areas of bear metal on body panels.

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I have not had it lift any thing I have over painted with it. My method is sand back the ali bodywork paying special attention to the oxidisation bubbles and taking them back to bare metal. Then over the whole panel in primer. not had any issues.

Turboman said:

You are over thinking this.
Don't think of it like painting a car, you will end up with a better finish than it had when it came out of the factory.
Think of it like painting an old tractor, which is more or less what it is.
Get off the loose stuff, quick sand to give a key on the old paint, wash off thoroughly.
Brush, etch primer, another brush, topcoat. Let it dry and give it another topcoat.
Jobs a goodun.

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^^ this is the best advice. And if you want a slightly better finish use a small gloss roller but other than that everything said here is the method to use on a land rover.