What modification to

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Montyjohn

Montyjohn

Well-Known Member
Posts
246
Location
UK
Right, so I'm in the market for a late 4.6 P38. I know all the reasons why I shouldn't, but it's a sickness.
A part of that sickness is to obsess about all the things I will do it (before I've even bought one).
I'm looking for some active support in indulging in my problems by helping think of things to modify
I used to own a late classic which I drove to Mongolia and back and I modified that beyond recognition. It was fun and looked great but kinda ruined it I think. With the P38 I want it to look stock and beautiful but I still want to take it on mild off-road sessions.
One of my concerns with the P38 is how much wheel spin it needs before the 4TC kicks in resulting in stones being flicked, sidewards crawling etc. I know it's a bit lame but I don't want to scratch the P38 so I'm thinking of air lockers, not so I can go to extreme places, but so I can go slow under control and keep the car looking pretty.
The other thing I'd like is a modern Android radio. I'll do this in a way where I keep the original part so I can return to standard if I wish.
This might be a bit silly and far fetched but I like the idea of building a custom winch mounted bull bar that can be easily bolted and unbolted to keep it stock 95% of the time. Can't really work out how feasible this is until I have one however.
What else should I be looking at? No coil conversions please. I want EAS.
 
IMO the TC is a waste of time, it only works if at all for a short period before it shuts down to avoid overheating, it certainly doesn't help mine climb a modest slope on frosty wet grass. There is a very impressive machine gun sound as it slides gently backwards, the Pajero had no problem with a rear LSD and a centre diff lock.
 
Datatek said:
IMO the TC is a waste of time, it only works if at all for a short period before it shuts down to avoid overheating, it certainly doesn't help mine climb a modest slope on frosty wet grass. There is a very impressive machine gun sound as it slides gently backwards, the Pajero had no problem with a rear LSD and a centre diff lock.
Click to expand...
I agree i had a shogun ,which had 2 of diff locks and a center lock which could be used as things got more stucky :rolleyes: and never got stuck even when at a full stop in mud ,just flick another switch till it got going ,BUT the electric trickery on the range rover is all you v got and momentum is key ,My shogun was light in comparison,, the rangerover is a heavy beast and i think 4wheel tc came out after 99 be four that it was rear tc only ;)
 
Montyjohn said:
Right, so I'm in the market for a late 4.6 P38. I know all the reasons why I shouldn't, but it's a sickness.
A part of that sickness is to obsess about all the things I will do it (before I've even bought one).
I'm looking for some active support in indulging in my problems by helping think of things to modify
I used to own a late classic which I drove to Mongolia and back and I modified that beyond recognition. It was fun and looked great but kinda ruined it I think. With the P38 I want it to look stock and beautiful but I still want to take it on mild off-road sessions.
One of my concerns with the P38 is how much wheel spin it needs before the 4TC kicks in resulting in stones being flicked, sidewards crawling etc. I know it's a bit lame but I don't want to scratch the P38 so I'm thinking of air lockers, not so I can go to extreme places, but so I can go slow under control and keep the car looking pretty.
The other thing I'd like is a modern Android radio. I'll do this in a way where I keep the original part so I can return to standard if I wish.
This might be a bit silly and far fetched but I like the idea of building a custom winch mounted bull bar that can be easily bolted and unbolted to keep it stock 95% of the time. Can't really work out how feasible this is until I have one however.
What else should I be looking at? No coil conversions please. I want EAS.
Click to expand...

You have to boot it to get the 4W TC to kick in. That said, on the last Landyzone meet we did the only car not to get stuch was a P38a with 4W TC so make of that what you will. Limited slip diffs might help more. Airlockers for when you get stuck - check Ashcroft's website.

Oversize wheels might help a little extra clearance - @300bhp/ton is the expert there. If you need more lift then you'll be looking at Arnott gen 3 air-springs. They're nice and robust too ... but EXPENSIVE! @Salisbury Nick can probably share some experiences there. I guess if you're wading you might like to look at a snorkel. For winching @996TURBO had some nice mods but I just chuck a Tirfor TU16 in the boot. He also had some nice diff guards and so forth. Terrafirma do some nice rock-sliders.

If you're going to get muddy you might want to look at protecting the rad a bit with a custom grille. Of course, you don't want to obstruct airflow, especially with the v8 but the rad can get blocked with crap.
 
dubbleRR said:
I agree i had a shogun ,which had 2 of diff locks and a center lock which could be used as things got more stucky :rolleyes: and never got stuck even when at a full stop in mud ,just flick another switch till it got going ,BUT the electric trickery on the range rover is all you v got and momentum is key ,My shogun was light in comparison,, the rangerover is a heavy beast and i think 4wheel tc came out after 99 be four that it was rear tc only ;)
Click to expand...

Some of the early ones had no TC like and a few others on here.
 
brianp38dse said:
Some of the early ones had no TC like and a few others on here.
Click to expand...
4wheel Tc on my 1999.
Here's a mod for you..
IMG_20220821_145115.jpg
new battery clamps. :cool:
 
If you need a winch rr-evolution do a frame that site in behind the bumper and bolts to the chassis legs leaving an américain style box section just poking out and you then fit a winch tray and plugs. Fully tested according to an email I received when asking questions about side loading. ;)
 
Mark Piercy said:
If you need a winch rr-evolution do a frame that site in behind the bumper and bolts to the chassis legs leaving an américain style box section just poking out and you then fit a winch tray and plugs. Fully tested according to an email I received when asking questions about side loading. ;)
Click to expand...

Is Flo still going? Not heard anything from him in ages.
 
Grrrrrr said:
You have to boot it to get the 4W TC to kick in. That said, on the last Landyzone meet we did the only car not to get stuch was a P38a with 4W TC so make of that what you will. Limited slip diffs might help more. Airlockers for when you get stuck - check Ashcroft's website.

Oversize wheels might help a little extra clearance - @300bhp/ton is the expert there. If you need more lift then you'll be looking at Arnott gen 3 air-springs. They're nice and robust too ... but EXPENSIVE! @Salisbury Nick can probably share some experiences there. I guess if you're wading you might like to look at a snorkel. For winching @996TURBO had some nice mods but I just chuck a Tirfor TU16 in the boot. He also had some nice diff guards and so forth. Terrafirma do some nice rock-sliders.

If you're going to get muddy you might want to look at protecting the rad a bit with a custom grille. Of course, you don't want to obstruct airflow, especially with the v8 but the rad can get blocked with crap.
Click to expand...
No need to boot it on mine, the TC kicks in at low revs and low speed.
 
Mark Piercy said:
If you need a winch rr-evolution do a frame that site in behind the bumper and bolts to the chassis legs leaving an américain style box section just poking out and you then fit a winch tray and plugs. Fully tested according to an email I received when asking questions about side loading. ;)
Click to expand...

Found some pics, looks pretty tidy. Good suggestion
 
Montyjohn said:
Right, so I'm in the market for a late 4.6 P38. I know all the reasons why I shouldn't, but it's a sickness.
A part of that sickness is to obsess about all the things I will do it (before I've even bought one).
I'm looking for some active support in indulging in my problems by helping think of things to modify
I used to own a late classic which I drove to Mongolia and back and I modified that beyond recognition. It was fun and looked great but kinda ruined it I think. With the P38 I want it to look stock and beautiful but I still want to take it on mild off-road sessions.
One of my concerns with the P38 is how much wheel spin it needs before the 4TC kicks in resulting in stones being flicked, sidewards crawling etc. I know it's a bit lame but I don't want to scratch the P38 so I'm thinking of air lockers, not so I can go to extreme places, but so I can go slow under control and keep the car looking pretty.
The other thing I'd like is a modern Android radio. I'll do this in a way where I keep the original part so I can return to standard if I wish.
This might be a bit silly and far fetched but I like the idea of building a custom winch mounted bull bar that can be easily bolted and unbolted to keep it stock 95% of the time. Can't really work out how feasible this is until I have one however.
What else should I be looking at? No coil conversions please. I want EAS.
Click to expand...
The TCS is great. You don’t need to welly it, but gently roll on the throttle or hold is a steady throttle. Going too slow or stopping doesn’t work well. And lots of people just floor it far too late. Or worse back off as soon as it works.

It really shouldn’t kick up stones any more than any other off road driving. Lockers are an option. But will cost. And of course you can’t really steer very well with lockers. ATB’s would be my choice if you have 4 wheel TCS (1999 MY plus).

Limitations off road are relatively poor break over angle and rear departure angle. The approach isn’t too bad. Bigger wheels are an option. But should the EAS fail you’ll end up with wheels jammed in the arches. I run 255/70R16 which is as big as I’d go for this reason. Also keeps the gearing about right. But there people who run 33’s.

The EAS is ok. But you have to inflate it to raise the vehicle. Which means it rides hard and bounces (and oddly they are soft an wallow when lowered). Arnott Gen 3 air springs solve this, but are hugely expensive. None of the other springs do.

They flex ok stock. But you can get +2” shocks. But you’ll need longer air springs and/or spacers else run the risk of pulling the air springs apart.

The p38 is bigger than a Classic. So less good in tight places. But they off road well, just lack clearance for the wheelbase really in stock guise.
 
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