kernowsvenski
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Just replaced the offside scuttle panel that I broke a while ago.
What have you done to your Freelander today
- Thread starter Freelaner
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andyfreelandy
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kernowsvenski
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They're in the post.
andyfreelandy
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Mine have now bedded in. I believe that short notice hard braking appears to be better.
Should have done distance check on an emergency stop before and after the change of discs.
Should have done distance check on an emergency stop before and after the change of discs.
andyfreelandy
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Ohh it's all grown up.
Looks good, just have to be good at targetted throwing of all the things one needs !!
It’s one thing getting stuff into it, but another completely when you want it out again, especially from the far side!
kernowsvenski
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Looking all ready for a family trip to Gods country.
Manged to replace the front calipers in hopes that fixes the lack of brake pedal... 3 of 4 guide pins were seized but yet after removal clean and reassembly the brakes still super spongy... there'll be more explaining in my dedicated thread 
I'll be down for the meet still maybe someone can tell where the issue originates! Getting very lost almost replaced the whole braking system now... only the hand brake cable and 2 brake lines have not been replaced...
I'll be down for the meet still maybe someone can tell where the issue originates! Getting very lost almost replaced the whole braking system now... only the hand brake cable and 2 brake lines have not been replaced...
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It’s a while yet… and I have a couple more upgrades
Currently working on the CarPlay screen, primarily to stream music from my phone into the car stereo aux (got some great speakers to make use of) and to give a bigger/better sat nav screen. Didn’t really want the cheap rear camera that comes with it as the parking sensors are great, but on reflection it will be useful when I’m on farmland as I often drive/manoeuvre near ditches/stumps etc., so I’ll fit it while I’m doing the job.
Think it’ll be mounted somehow using the centre speaker cover as that’s easily removable, gives good access for wires behind the dash/down to the passenger fuse box, and easily replaced if I make a pig’s ear out of it!
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Well been busy replacing front end entire running gear and recon wheels
Replaced the following both sides front
Track control arm and gaiter
Track rod end
Shock and top mount
Spring
Wishbone
Ball joint
Wheel bearing
Steering knuckle
Abs sensor
Sway bar bushes
Discs
Pads
Calipers
Slide pins
Total cost for parts 1500
My Labour nowt it needed a bit of tlc
Back end due to start
Replaced the following both sides front
Track control arm and gaiter
Track rod end
Shock and top mount
Spring
Wishbone
Ball joint
Wheel bearing
Steering knuckle
Abs sensor
Sway bar bushes
Discs
Pads
Calipers
Slide pins
Total cost for parts 1500
My Labour nowt it needed a bit of tlc
Back end due to start
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Last edited:
Wheel off, and there is a plastic cap on the face of the drum. Prise that off and adjuster can be seen/moved with a screwdriver (the adjuster is on a horizontal plane level with the hub nut).Just handbrake to adjust now, hoping it's easy
Handbrake cable adjuster can be got to via the coin tray of the console.
DIscs on the back ?
Yes, but the hand brake is small shoes within an inner drum (think yours is an early model, right? Not electronic)
Ahhh yes you're right, I'll do it when I swap wheels front to back, 2mm more tread on back than front
kernowsvenski
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Cleaned out the unknown residue in the coolant bottle last night and discovered that the residue is corrosion. Time for another thorough flush I think. Has anyone ever used a cemical flushing product? I was wondering if it's worth giving one a go, or whether they may cause issues with seals and hoses etc?
Also had the flickering trailer light syndrome again, but this time no burning odour accompanying it. I think I shall replace the relay.
Also had the flickering trailer light syndrome again, but this time no burning odour accompanying it. I think I shall replace the relay.
Got this far with the CarPlay screen…
6mm ply glued in to give some structure to the plastic speaker cover, as well as a rigid base to secure to (ignore the scribbles on the wood).
Wires are down to fuse box and power is a female cigarette lighter socket hard-wired on a fused piggy-back to F5, which is ignition switched and a spare circuit anyway. (Have kept the cigarette lighter on the supplied plug as that is a voltage dropper also). 3.5mm aux lead then runs behind the trims and out next to the jack on the centre console.
This way, I still have the option of a de-install and removing all traces of it for a £30 replacement speaker cover!
More today…
6mm ply glued in to give some structure to the plastic speaker cover, as well as a rigid base to secure to (ignore the scribbles on the wood).
Wires are down to fuse box and power is a female cigarette lighter socket hard-wired on a fused piggy-back to F5, which is ignition switched and a spare circuit anyway. (Have kept the cigarette lighter on the supplied plug as that is a voltage dropper also). 3.5mm aux lead then runs behind the trims and out next to the jack on the centre console.
This way, I still have the option of a de-install and removing all traces of it for a £30 replacement speaker cover!
More today…
FrINlander
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Tried loosing up my tie rod for an alignment. Noticed one of the bolts in the steering rod assembly has a snapped head(nr. 2 in image)
Does anyone have the specs for them? It's a 13mm socket, but don't know anything about the thread, dimensions or material.
Does anyone have the specs for them? It's a 13mm socket, but don't know anything about the thread, dimensions or material.
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