What have you done to your Freelander today

thebluemax said:

anyone verify grumpygel's theory ?

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Don't listen to him.

The only thing that leads me to think we have the wrong end of the stick here, is that you say you also now have 2 fobs. Did you lose a key but not a fob or does this setup somehow enable another fob? I'm not following that bit.

I did that - I extracted the chip from my one original key and glued it to the barrel and got ebay replacement key blanks cut to the right profile.
I now have spare keys (although no spare fob, but not too fussed) and it cost a fraction of getting it done "properly".
As for insurance, I have minimum cover so cant make a theft claim anyway so it makes no difference to me or the insurer.

Hippo said:

It you need a "thing" to switch oft the immobiliser (yer does) which is removable from the car (like the keys/fobs)... and yer choose to fit said "thing" to the car so the immobiliser is permanently deactivated by default (or at least is given the right signal when requested/detected)... then you have bypassed the immobiliser and it will be considered useless as a security device. This changes the security set-up of the vehicle and I would expect compromise yer insurance if they think you have a working factory fitted immobiliser. You do, but it's not helping to protect yer vehicle as turning the ignition lock correctly would in theory be enough to start yer vehicle as the immobiliser signal is already there ready for when it's checked/read.

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point taken guys, will get a "proper" key soon as.

GrumpyGel said:

The only thing that leads me to think we have the wrong end of the stick here, is that you say you also now have 2 fobs. Did you lose a key but not a fob or does this setup somehow enable another fob? I'm not following that bit.

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I only had 1 key and one fob, bought two blank keys and another fob then fixed the original key to the barrel, so now have 2 keys and 2 fobs to use, fobs have been coded to the car.
mind you if anyone could get in to the car they would surely have to have the same profile cut key as mine, or am I wrong about that ?

I have removed the back box on my TD4, looks like it is the original as the clamp is spot welded on.
Not bad for 140,000 miles !!

eeem... Probably something should be here... but no clue what

Oh, probably this should be there


So, what we got here?, Complete refurb Pg1 (bearings, ect.) New rubber cooling system pipes, new metal fuel/cooling pipes module (that black pipes with caps)
Fresh turbocharger, with intake and exhaust manifolds, New cam and pump drive, with all dealings renewed some repairs in engine loom.
Also four new driveshafts, rust protection on engine bay, engine mounts.

Now L-series can back to chassis.
P.S
If you want to know more about Td4 and L-series - be sure to get next LRM issue

thebluemax said:

I only had 1 key and one fob, bought two blank keys and another fob then fixed the original key to the barrel, so now have 2 keys and 2 fobs to use, fobs have been coded to the car.
mind you if anyone could get in to the car they would surely have to have the same profile cut key as mine, or am I wrong about that ?

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Who'd be stupid enough to want to steal an old Freelander? But even more to the point if your car was stolen and key/chip is properly hidden inside the steering column casing, could anyone envisage a scenario where the insurance company would find out?

Apart from one where they happened to read this thread that is.

my thoughts too, but I suppose some are that stupid.

Alibro said:

Who'd be stupid enough to want to steal an old Freelander? But even more to the point if your car was stolen and key/chip is properly hidden inside the steering column casing, could anyone envisage a scenario where the insurance company would find out?

Apart from one where they happened to read this thread that is.

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They may not find out... but you have to consider the pay out when stolen is probably going to be less than what th car is worth to you. So making it easier to nick is going to increase the chances of you losing out financially if stolen. It's a risk some are prepared to take.

Today's job was to take out the remains of the tailgate window regulator and replace it with a brand spanking shiny new one!

Took about an hour in all, including the fiddly bit of lining up the glass.

Previous owner had used a couple of bits of wood to hold the glass up after removing the dead motor.

Ambriel said:

Today's job was to take out the remains of the tailgate window regulator and replace it with a brand spanking shiny new one!

Took about an hour in all, including the fiddly bit of lining up the glass.

Previous owner had used a couple of bits of wood to hold the glass up after removing the dead motor.

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Resourceful

This afternoon I had some time to kill so I decided finally to dismantle the propshaft I removed a few months ago to get ready for a new VCU. Got the rear half off the VCU in less than ten minutes. An hour and a half later and I'm still struggling with the front end. Meh

kernowsvenski said:

This afternoon I had some time to kill so I decided finally to dismantle the propshaft I removed a few months ago to get ready for a new VCU. Got the rear half off the VCU in less than ten minutes. An hour and a half later and I'm still struggling with the front end. Meh

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I had the same problem and had to resort to heat. Problem was it heated up the UJ so I replaced it just in case. I bent my chisel trying to get it off!

Thank goodness for that! Took chuffing ages. No heat required in the end though.

Insured it and started MOT prep at last!

Swapped out the oil in the IRD:

Surprisingly little swarf in it, it had a few fine bits on the sump plug but nothing major. Certainly not enough to worry me.

The rear brakes kept locking while cold so I decided to change them out:

Plenty of meat still left on them, but I changed them just because I was in there. I do like how the auto adjuster works, every time a shoe has to move more than a few mm the cam winds the adjuster out.

If you're going to do this job, make sure you restrain the pistons, they try and escape:


All cleaned up with new shoes:


And man, does it stop better now! I think the amount of dust in there was really screwing with the performance of the rear brakes. I'd recommend to anyone to pull them apart as a matter of course and clean them out!

Hooked up my remote start for the webasto. Just need to run the fan power now and I'm ready for frosty mornings.

Did some wiring and test-fitting in my AUX battery box (sorry for the reflections, glossy black paint!)

B34R said:

Swapped out the oil in the IRD:
The rear brakes kept locking while cold so I decided to change them out:

Plenty of meat still left on them, but I changed them just because I was in there. I do like how the auto adjuster works, every time a shoe has to move more than a few mm the cam winds the adjuster out.

If you're going to do this job, make sure you restrain the pistons, they try and escape:


All cleaned up with new shoes:


And man, does it stop better now! I think the amount of dust in there was really screwing with the performance of the rear brakes. I'd recommend to anyone to pull them apart as a matter of course and clean them out!

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Changed my rears too cause the handbrake was useless. Same as you made a big difference. Did you use new springs and pins?