What have you done to your Freelander today

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SnapBrokeIt said:
Changed clutch on two car, td4 01 + 04. Mistakenly thought the second would be easier, what i fools i was. Never again.
Click to expand...

Just done the clutch on our 02 Td4. If I have to do another, I might hire an engine hoist and drop the engine/trans out. Biggest problems were the top inner IRD bolt and getting the gearbox back on.
 
guineafowl21 said:
Just done the clutch on our 02 Td4. If I have to do another, I might hire an engine hoist and drop the engine/trans out. Biggest problems were the top inner IRD bolt and getting the gearbox back on.
Click to expand...

Dunno if its different when the gearbox has been moved - but I found that IRD bolt just needs a lot of extensions on the ratchet so you can turn it at the other end of the IRD - or was it even in the driver's wheel arch - forget which.
 
Yeah, on the bolt nearest to the engine an extension only goes so far due tho the cr*p that's in the way - I found if I lowered the engine a bit and used a swivel type connector on the socket it came undone with a breaker bar, the hand sized ratchet just wouldn't move on it, my biggest fear then was rounding the bolt head, but thankfully it was fine - If I was to tackle it again, this would be the first bolt I removed on the IRD.
Also, didn't spot the bearing inside the bell housing of the gearbox - I couldn't closes it and took several times removing it on and off before i noticed that what stopping it. (Mother brother!) the thing is so F-iinnn heavy it took a couple of days yes days to get in in the right position. this was on my 04 plate, the 02 plate just went straight on!
Note: I left the pinion in the gear box, it would be easier if i removed it, but didn't want to complicate things with my limited understanding and ability to mess things up, so you can leave this on but you'll need two trolly jacks; it goes on pinon facing the floor then rotate, don't close it before you rotate it as the top of the gearbox prevents it from spinning.
Also, the exhaust I left well alone....
Well there's my two penny's - sorry they're no picces :fighting2:
 
changed auxiliary and air con belts today went better than expected just a leaking heater matrix leak to sort out next :mad:
 
SnapBrokeIt said:
Yeah, on the bolt nearest to the engine an extension only goes so far due tho the cr*p that's in the way - I found if I lowered the engine a bit and used a swivel type connector on the socket it came undone with a breaker bar, the hand sized ratchet just wouldn't move on it, my biggest fear then was rounding the bolt head, but thankfully it was fine - If I was to tackle it again, this would be the first bolt I removed on the IRD.
Also, didn't spot the bearing inside the bell housing of the gearbox - I couldn't closes it and took several times removing it on and off before i noticed that what stopping it. (Mother brother!) the thing is so F-iinnn heavy it took a couple of days yes days to get in in the right position. this was on my 04 plate, the 02 plate just went straight on!
Note: I left the pinion in the gear box, it would be easier if i removed it, but didn't want to complicate things with my limited understanding and ability to mess things up, so you can leave this on but you'll need two trolly jacks; it goes on pinon facing the floor then rotate, don't close it before you rotate it as the top of the gearbox prevents it from spinning.
Also, the exhaust I left well alone....
Well there's my two penny's - sorry they're no picces :fighting2:
Click to expand...

lol, yes a breaker bar is a must with some of those IRD bolts. Some of the bolts you only have, like, 1 click on the ratchet as well given the access. But it is all possible with a simple socket set, lots of extension pieces and a breaker bar. Some of the videos on YouTube of people climbing over engines with mullgrips on levers on spanners is just ridiculous. Having said this - I have an inspection pit in my garage which made it SO much easier, I'd have hated to do it on my back under the car.

This is the unit coming out without the pinion. After it was reconditioned, it went back in with the pinion on.

ReplaceIRD.jpg
 
Got it up on 4 axle stands for some prodding underneath.

Three amigos appear to be caused by one ABS sensor which is showing a resistance much higher than the other three. Clonking from underneath is due to the VCU damper ring coming adrift, which I chopped off and binned and one prop universal joint is loose and clanking. VCU bearings are also sounding rather dry and rumbly.

I cleaned out the rear brakes. Again. As the handbrake occasionally jams on, and found a splt in the rear chassis rail where the subframe mount bolts on.

Its just as well I like this car and it suits what I need so well as I reckon it would have been binned ages ago otherwise. The Mazda got the crap abused out of it and it barely needed touching. If it wasnt so bloody horrid to drive I would be using it instead of it currently sitting abandoned in the barn.
 

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bought a new rear wiper, only to find out it's a weird shaped plastic wiper....

30 seconds with an angle grinder, and a generic 14" wiper now fits! :lol:
 
^^^ thats exactly what I did too. Stupid plastic original thing which cant be bought anywhere (apart from main dealers I assume) and its mounting clips are too wide to take the universal refill rubbers.

A quick buzz with a grinder soon gets a standard blade on there though.
 
New aero wipers., rock sliders, new bigger land rover lettering at the front, fitted egr blank part, inlet manifold cleaned and wind deflectors. And finished off with a nice clean.
 
Fixed a broken wire that was causing some starting problems and had a look at replacing the spotlights and the rubber A - bar after the wife smashed a spotlight on an Audi! �� 3 K of damage to the audi . Just love landrovers!
 
Diesel Rhino

As suggest on this forum... hope it works.. I'll report back - if it any good I'll be heading to the next suggestion 'ronbox'
 
Towed the new hippo home. It got a collapsed bearing/crown wheel in the IRD, , 1x window lift cable snapped, stiff VCU and thats about it. Everything else seems fine. Got a spare IRD. So just need get a new VCU + bearings :)

Previous owner spent loads of money through the LR dealer the last 5 years. Around 3500£ the last year. Engine was brand new from England 35000km ago(around 20k mile). She just got fed up with it, the price on a new IRD + the work done came on in around 4000£. So i bought it for pocket money :eek:

V4lZpu.jpg
 
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