What Fuel ????

Hi..
Just about to collect my first Landy. Series III lightweight. 1979 V reg. Any ideas on the fuel situation.
Will it run on unleaded? Do I need additive ? Does it depend on which head fitted? How will i know? (Am awaiting mail back from current owner but wanted to be prepared)
Please don't laugh at my question..
Any help much appreciated.

Read this:- No More Leaded Four Star

Hi,

No engine lasts for ever.

But I thrashed my 2286cc engine on unleaded ever since the real stuff became difficult to find. The engine was clapped when I fitted it in 1993, and it was still clapped when I sold it in 2007. I never took the head off. Come to that I never changed to oil or filter either ..... OK, I removed the filter element in 2004. That engine refused to die.

Additives or LRP will cost you money. LRP has other problems. Save that money in a piggy bank, and don't fix your engine until it breaks. It will deteriate gradually, so you will have time to make arrangements. Who knows, it may never break.

But if you regrind the valves, or plan to overland to Australia, it does make sense to fit an unleaded head.

602

Dont worry about it , unleaded is only a important factor in highly stressed( high performance engines) , or when engine is being used really hard .
It was hyped up as a big problem, as most things these days are eg y2k , swine flu .
The old style landrover engine will operate on quite a wide range of fuel spec . and will do so for years. JMHE

Many thanks for you replies. Would enleaded (95ron) or super unleaded (98ron) same ron as unleaded be preferable. Additive or not? I know two of you think run as is, but being a newbie just curious.

Again many thanks.

I would suggest that the lowest grade is more than adequate in the low stress design of the landrover engine . It would just be a waste of money to use a higher grade JMHO

Kdfc1 said:

Many thanks for you replies. Would enleaded (95ron) or super unleaded (98ron) same ron as unleaded be preferable. Additive or not? I know two of you think run as is, but being a newbie just curious.
Again many thanks.

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You didn't read the linked article, No More Leaded Four Star did you?

98Ron is the same octane equivilent as old 4-star leaded, 95Ron is the same octane equivilent as old 2-star leaded... Landy was designed to run on 2-star...... they got run on 4-star leaded, becouse they phased out 2-star leaded first, leaving people who needed leaded, 4-star as the only one with lead in it.

So, 95 Ron would be 'adequete' if you run 'as is', or with an addative; but again, as article explains; some addatives include octane 'boosters' that will put a lead 'substitute' lubricant into 95Ron and bang up the octane to around 98/99/100Ron depending on how you 'dose' the fuel, but thats unnecessary on a landy engine as well.....

READ THE ARTICLE, it explains all!

Hi,

Way back when, they started to increase compression ratios. increasing the compression ratio increases the speed of burning, which in turn led to detonation (pinking). Increasing the octane rating slowed down the burn rate, so prevented pinking.

BUT.... using hi-octane fuel also slowed down the burn rate on low compression engines, which I suppose could mean the fuel is still burning when the exhaust valve starts to open, leading to premature failure of the valve and seats (and a hot exhaust pipe). My father always said that his 1935 Austin 10 ran smoother on Premium petrol, and he had to regrind his valves about once a year. What spec petrol was available in the late
1950s?

Avoid LRP if your truck is going to be unused for longish periods.

602 (He of a little learning)

The above is exactly correct, high octane doesnt necessarily mean more power, its gives greater capabilty for more power, and is not allways so good on an old design engine.
T'other thing is, more recent cylinder heads have high turbulence passageways and chambers to speed up the burn and will cope with and use higher octane petty, whereas the old heartshape of the leyland motor was designed for leaded juice.

Many thanks for your replies. I am initially doing a 370 mile journey but after that not long distances. Have read the article but very long winded.

I have bought some Redex lead replacement additive for the long journeys.

Again thanks for all your help & replies

Sure you'l be fine, take it easy and try to avoid full throttle.

w3526602 said:

Hi,

BUT.... using hi-octane fuel also slowed down the burn rate on low compression engines, which I suppose could mean the fuel is still burning when the exhaust valve starts to open, leading to premature failure of the valve and seats (and a hot exhaust pipe).

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Hi guys, I'm getting a fair bit of exhaust popping when going downhill on the gears, assumed it's unburned fuel getting through somehow, is this likely to be linked to fuel type? Hadn't thought of that as an issue, just using non-premium petrol. Doesn't feel like a huge problem, assumed I'd get it sorted next time I get a service.

Thoughts?

Sounds like the mixture is weakening if anything, check to make sure the fanimold bolts are tight, and that your carb is set up right.

dr pepper said:

Sounds like the mixture is weakening if anything, check to make sure the fanimold bolts are tight, and that your carb is set up right.

Click to expand...

Cheers - will do!