You get some inside through the holes but my 1984 chassis was very good on the inside, as long as it gets ventilation to dry out it'll last ok, plenty of sixties and seventies chassis still around
What’s best for removing rust from chassis
- Thread starter Mr G Imp
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
You get some inside through the holes but my 1984 chassis was very good on the inside, as long as it gets ventilation to dry out it'll last ok, plenty of sixties and seventies chassis still around
Britcyclerider
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 211
- Location
- Dorset, UK
I use 80% phosphoric acid on all rusty steel parts. Once flaking rust has been removed, paint it on, wipe after a few hours and then leave to dry for 24 hours prior to priming. It's very effective and a lot cheaper than buying branded rust removing products. Obviously H&S precautions need to be applied!
v8250
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 6,872
- Location
- Deepest Darkest...
+1 phosphoric acid is highly effective at etching and neutralizing...I also use hydrochloric acid when restoring some parts [but use with absolute care and outdoors only]
flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
+2 on phosphoric acid,
i also use fertan rust converter which works well aswell
i also use fertan rust converter which works well aswell
johnsonca9
Active Member
- Posts
- 68
- Location
- South Yorkshire
Norton blaze rapid strip discs (or cheaper equivalent off Amazon).
Changed my perception of how easy it can be to strip paint, rust and underseal and they are so quick compared to flap discs, not do they get clogged up easily.
Changed my perception of how easy it can be to strip paint, rust and underseal and they are so quick compared to flap discs, not do they get clogged up easily.
- Posts
- 1,205
- Location
- The Flat lands of Cambridgeshire
i spray mine with waste oil twice a year,, last year even treated it to brand new oil...lol
Normally once in Spring and then once as we go into shooting season and it gets all wet and slubby
I swing it off the telehandler and steam clean the crap out of it
let it dry for a couple of days on the ramp, then give it a good spray with oil, normally have to mix it withy a splash of diesel to make it flow in the gun.
Then leave it to dry for several days...
TOP TIP
Don't do it two days before your MOT,, my tester is a mate and even he had a sense of humour failure when i made that mistake.....lol
Normally once in Spring and then once as we go into shooting season and it gets all wet and slubby
I swing it off the telehandler and steam clean the crap out of it
let it dry for a couple of days on the ramp, then give it a good spray with oil, normally have to mix it withy a splash of diesel to make it flow in the gun.
Then leave it to dry for several days...
TOP TIP
Don't do it two days before your MOT,, my tester is a mate and even he had a sense of humour failure when i made that mistake.....lol
Attachments
tottot
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,465
- Location
- west wales coast
Same sort of treatment has kept my 1090 90 in good order, still has original rear crossmember.
Second TOP TIP Do not park on someone's posh drive or face some more sense of humour fail.
Plus 3 for phosphoric acid as well.
Second TOP TIP Do not park on someone's posh drive or face some more sense of humour fail.
Plus 3 for phosphoric acid as well.
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 705
- Location
- Lancashire
Where is the best place to get phosphoric acid?
So you rub down the metal first with a pad, and then just paint/spray the 80% phosphoric acid on?
miktdish
Guns n Chainsaws
- Posts
- 4,909
