Went to view a Series 3 but am now too scared to bid for it.

It would be my first landy if I was to get it. The guy let me have a drive in it and all was well. The bulkhead was solid, just a tiny bit of surface rust. No obvious leaks under the bonnet. No ominous clunks.

My worry is the chassis, it DID have rust on it but I don't know how bad it was. He said it had only had one weld 3 years ago, done professionally. It passed an MOT three months ago with no advisories so it can't be that bad right? At the time I was thinking it was ok but now I've convinced myself there will be something wrong with it.

3 months on mot for corrosion, if your not sure then get a second opinion

Check your vehicle's MOT status and history online : Directgov - Motoring

Calum, with your approach and pessimism maybe an older Land Rover isn't the best choice of vehicle for you, have you though about a nice shiny new slitty maybe?

you cannot afford these types of thoughts and all consuming worries with Landy ownership, if it is rusty then it is rusty-deal with it and move on to the next issue.


Just my opinion

DiscoPol's right, if you're that worried and you haven't even got it yet, get a Mondeo ...

^^i agree.
Or get one with a recently replaced chassis.

CalumM said:

It would be my first landy if I was to get it. The guy let me have a drive in it and all was well. The bulkhead was solid, just a tiny bit of surface rust. No obvious leaks under the bonnet. No ominous clunks.

My worry is the chassis, it DID have rust on it but I don't know how bad it was. He said it had only had one weld 3 years ago, done professionally. It passed an MOT three months ago with no advisories so it can't be that bad right? At the time I was thinking it was ok but now I've convinced myself there will be something wrong with it.

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Did you go round and tap it with a screwdriver. Thats what I used to do and if the screwdriver went through said bit of bodywork or chassis, then that was walk away time!

With out offering up some photos of the offending vehicle, there isn't much more advice people on here can offer.

Most things are easily fixable on a series. Mine is a work in progress

Of course there will be something wrong with it, it's a Land Rover , even a good one will have something needing attention somewhere. You either like getting the spanners out, or you don't.
I rest my case

Yeah fair enough. I did poke it and the screwdriver didn't go through.

Last night I was just worried about getting major buyer's remorse. After sleeping on it I'm definitely going to put a bid in, ends tomorrow so it will be an excited wait till then!

CalumM said:

Yeah fair enough. I did poke it and the screwdriver didn't go through.

Last night I was just worried about getting major buyer's remorse. After sleeping on it I'm definitely going to put a bid in, ends tomorrow so it will be an excited wait till then!

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Poke harder

mad git said:

Poke harder

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Or combine with a bigger screwdriver and hammer

bakerstreet said:

Or combine with a bigger screwdriver and hammer

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a "Scrammer"

Freelaner said:

a "Scrammer"

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small pick axe or slaters ammer wiff a heffin big spike ont back and give it a good pecking :smash::5bbeatdeadhorse5::5bsmash::5bsmash::5bsmash::5bsifone:

johnny curt 1 said:

small pick axe or slaters ammer wiff a heffin big spike ont back and give it a good pecking :smash::5bbeatdeadhorse5::5bsmash::5bsmash::5bsmash::5bsifone:

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That'll either feck it or prove it's worthy

Freelaner said:

That'll either feck it or prove it's worthy

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thats what i test with when ive got a welding job to do if it can put up with that abuse the MOT man aint got ****s chance with the toffee hammer :fighting:

johnny curt 1 said:

thats what i test with when ive got a welding job to do if it can put up with that abuse the MOT man aint got ****s chance with the toffee hammer :fighting:

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Makes sense to me Johnny, Land Rover adjustment tool number 3: the slate hammer

There are always things that need doing on a series but all can be fixed with a bent coat hanger and bits you find at the side of the road. You can try britpart for parts but I tend to find the bits at the side of the road are better quality.

roadside electrical repairs are always a laugh with my basic lecci repair kit

gas soldering iron and roll of solder
1 terminal scruddie
1 multi plier wire stripper cutter thingy ( the pliers with loads a funny cut outs n teeth )
1 roll of insulating tape
1 box of assorted heat shrink with a selection of crimp on blade connectors
all this crammed in the heat shrink box
bit of tin foil just for an emergency fuse
old wind in extension lead from the house for the wire if needed
stanley knife and a lighter
and me test lamp probe thingy ( cheapo bastid )

there aint nowt i cant fix at the side of the road

other shyte includes a 25 pc socket set few screwdrivers mole grips small and large adjustable spanner small plumbers wrench plumbers dogs hand winch and a disco bottle jack all fits nice n snug in the box uner the passengers seat

Mole grips - isn't that the correct name for undef%&kable wrench. It can de-f&%k anything. Realy its the only tool I need.
Mole grips really are the greatest tool ever - apart from D Cameron.

I also carry about 3ltrs of water and 1ltr of spare oil.

I've managed to cram a bottle jack, two lumps of wood (for bottle jack), road atlas, water, oil and gaffer tape under the seat.

Got an old ammo box that I am gradually building putting tools in for longer trips.

However, if the worse was to hgappen, I'd still probably reach for the AA card first!!

[B I'd still probably reach for the AA card first!!][/B]

I would double check that they cover your landy, the buggers grummbled when they came out to my 1968 88in...." not supposed to work on things this old".

He might of just had a bad day, towed me home, but did not look for a fault.

Rusty chassis, at least you can see it, and not hidden by a large amount of under seal