water pump bolts? and wrong antifreeze?

hello,

I've recently acquired an old 110 200TDi defender which I'm slowly bringin up to MOT standard (I hope).

As I couldn't verify the last timing belt replacment I decided to put a new one in. In the process of removing the water pump, I managed to snap one of the short bolts, and it became apparent that two of the three long bolts that go through to the engine block (where the water pumps in to the block) have been broken previously and were just 'stuck' in with silicone rubber. The only long bolt intact is the 'far right'/lower one. I can probably extract the short bolt stub with mole grips.

question is: would you try and remove the old bolt stubs so new ones can be used (which involves removing the timing gears, back plate, etc, then trying to extract/drill out the stubs, without losing the injection timing), or just hope it'll do without them?

To make matters worse I suspect the antifreeze in it (orange) is the new OAT type and not the normal e'glycol type, and there is slight evidence of it weeping out from the joint between the block/ timing backplate.

I'm tempted to do the timing belt and put it back together with the right antifreeze and see how it gets on but am uncertain as to the likelyhood of trouble...

Any advice welcome


Thx

You can pin the injection pump timing so it will only go in one place,
Personally I would remove the timing chest and fix the leak between that and the block, I had the same leek and within a couple of months the water was leaking out as soon as I put water in the system.
Its not a difficult job I had it done in a day having never done one before.

Thanks AM,

I was wondering if there's a way to keep the timing right other than paint-marking the bolts.

Any useful tips on extracting the stubs of the (waterpump) bolts? - I've never had much success with stud extractors

m

Iv never actually used a stud extractor, if there is a stub iv always got away with using mole grips or stillsons.

I suspect they've snapped off flush/ below the surface of the block - Probably end up drilling them out . Still it'll probably be easier than one time I had to drill a head bolt out of an ally block

cheers

m

oat antifreeze is okay will only do good , remove timing case and remoive stud it will leak eventually ,timing is easy a pin in flywheel housing (there may be more than one slot so ensure dot on front crank pulley is aligned as well )pin or 9.5 drill bit for injection pump ,and align cam mark with line on casing ,injection pump can be removed with no issues as long as you dont undo center nut on pump shaft but just the 3 bolts and 3 nuts holding pump to case (plus support bracket at rear )

oat antifreeze is okay will only do good

Click to expand...

That's interesting; i read somewhere that it shouldn't be used in older engines that predate the OAT as it causes gaskets to fail. mind you, it was somewhere on the internet and not necessarily a reliable source.

as regards the timing; I've not yet removed the old belt and I need to remind myself what the haynes manual says on timing first, so I'll hopefully be able to lock everything in place before removing the belt & sprockets (and not remove the center bolt from pump - thanks for that).

I'll have a read tonight and see if I can make some progress tomorrow.

m

Modern option for sheared stud is to by a drill with a left hand twist and drill in reverse when drill bites it tends to start stud extraction due to the heat generated

Blackburn said:

Modern option for sheared stud is to by a drill with a left hand twist and drill in reverse when drill bites it tends to start stud extraction due to the heat generated

Click to expand...

Now that's a good idea; I'll give it a go.

I had a snapped stud on my waterpump when I did my timing belt (I thought it was a dowel to start with lol). I could not get it out so I left it in. It didn't leak before I did the belt and it doesn't leak now..

Another quick question: how difficult is it to remove the crankshaft sprocket?

there are three holes which if threaded could be used to pull it off but I couldn't seem to find a thread to go in.

don't want to damage it by just levering it off.

yellow said:

Another quick question: how difficult is it to remove the crankshaft sprocket?

there are three holes which if threaded could be used to pull it off but I couldn't seem to find a thread to go in.

don't want to damage it by just levering it off.

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure the thread is M5.
The sprocket on mine was a bit of a ####, But I didn't have any bolts long enough to make a puller. So ended up using a couple of pry bars.
Not ideal but It was in bits and needed to get the job done before Monday morning. If I was to do another one I would get a few long bolts before I start the job

OK, I though I'd tried M5 but i'll look again. Thx

Hi all, Though I'd let you know how I got on after all your help:

Well I got the sprocket off (they were M5 threads), the backplate off, drilled out the old bolts, re-tapped the holes, cleaned the other holes and put it all back together.

The new timing belt seemed a very snug fit - I had to set the tension 3 times before I was convinced there was enough slack that it wasn't just sitting on the tensioner stop with the belt too taught.

But it's on at the recommended tension and everythings back together and water put in it (just residual antifreeze ATM -'til I decide which type to put back in). I'm still not convinced that OAT is the best choice.

everything seems watertight except the hoses onto the heavily corroded ally of the waterpump and thermostat - I tried to clean off as much crud as poss but they're still weeping a bit.

Fired her up and all seems good apart from the hose weeps. may have to resort to silicon sealant for them.

I had this. Snapped below. Ended up drilling out and using a helicoil insert. Not cheap but worked fine