Voltmeter...

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close but no cigar........fine bulldust had got inside, while everything was running and hot it worked. as it cooled over night the brushes contracted and because of the dust the springs couldn't push the brushes into contact with the rotor.

daily fix.. **** the alternator with a hammer
 
a simple test will show........after started the car......disconnect the battery....the engine shut off.....its the same scenerio if your alternator is not charging the battery and the battery eventually has insufficient or no charge left...

UNQUOTE

This is only because the engine STOPPER solenoid requires electricity all the time the engine is running to hold the solenoid OPEN.

The moment the power to it fails, the solenoid drops, shuts off the fuel, and the engine stops.

By the way, I guess you haven't tried disconnecting the battery of a car fitted with an alternator while the engine is running, because if you had you would have found out (the hard way) that the alternator would be burned out in a minute or two BECAUSE the battery wasn't connected.

ALL alternators fitted to cars etc use the battery as a reference voltage. The higher that reference voltage is (fully charged battery) the less the alternator charges. If the battery is not connected there is ZERO reference volts and the alternator goes into overload trying to make the missing volts up to about 13.8v.

That's the way it is folks.

CharlesY
 
Here it goes.....the amazing thing about forums....

yup.....quite a few things worked in me head as concept....which doesn't always right.......therefore I would from time to time need to be told the correct way of how things goes.......I suppose I am not too far off..just minor glitches here and there.....

By the way, CharlesY....could you look at my 1st post on this thread regarding the installation of ammeter, voltmeters, split charge and 2nd battery...I think its somewhere on 1st and 2nd page and see if anything should be connected in another manner...

Thanks...
 
Here it goes.....the amazing thing about forums....

By the way, CharlesY....could you look at my 1st post on this thread regarding the installation of ammeter, voltmeters, split charge and 2nd battery...I think its somewhere on 2nd page and see if anything should be connected in another manner...

Thanks...

basically, what you are trying to do is to let electricity from the alternator IN to the second battery , but NOT back out from the second (winch) battery to the vehicle's normal electric system when the engine isn't running.

This way:
1. using the winch should not flatten the car battery.
2. the car should keep the second battery well charged in normal running.

So, the two batteries feed separate systems, but are both charged by ONE alternator.

One easy way to sort this out is TWO alternators, one for the car's own battery and the second one only to charge the winch battery. this is a good solution. Alternators do not overcharge or "gas up" batteries, so it would be fine long term this way. Tempting .... two totally separate systems.

CharlesY
 
hmmmm.....very tempting too.....i'll have to see if the theres room in there for a 2nd alternator....and how the belts is to run....

Will update if I could think of a solution on this
 
Maybe I wont......as there will be a split charge unit, which already eliminates and disconnect the two batteries when the engine is not running.....hence main battery is not affected..

besides....the 2nd battery is mainly to run the fridge and other 12v camping items while at camp sites...and there is the solar panel to at least 're-charge' the battery while alternator is not in use..
 
why not invest in a 12v starter pack thing, the type used to jump start yer car. it comes with a charger for use in the car and another for pluging into the mains.
when at camp site fork out the extra few bob for lectric and run it orf that, or buy a 240ac- 12 dc converter.. thats what i use and if you use them 12v light fer kitchens and the like you then have a choice of 12v or 240v lights.

you put yer wires in the tent and leave them in even when folded and using them little block connectors for bulb holders, you can get the connectors wiff the same distance between hole as is the distance between pins on the bulbs.
this works so well people come over and ask you what lights you have as yer tent looks like its glows wiff some kind of radiation.

on top of all that it save ferkin about with split charging and alternators.


course if yer got one of them caravans then you really need to seek professional help
 

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thanks slob...

Already has a 600w 240v converter.....and yes, I'm using the 12v flourescent light at camps.....also has the jump starter just in case....

however, the bloody fridge/freezer draws too much amperage that the jump starter couldn't last for a day...hence the 2nd battery and solar panel...

btw.....has got all the bits and pieces...just need time to to put all them in...

also a note to all current and future 240v converter user......dont use the 240v converter on yer laptop and phone charger......I already fecked 1 laptop adapter & battery and 2 phone batteries......better get the 12v accessories for the laptop and phone or the likes.......apparently its to do with the sin waves......
 
nah not the flouresent lights...the little 12v halogen buggers..you can wire up yer tent so that once errected all you have to do is slot in a few bulbs. ave got a montana 12 tent and one bulb in each room and 2 in the main bit has it glowing like the ready-brek kid
 
Aye, if you want to run sensitive elctrickery you need an APC smart UPS. For about £100, it comes with a purifier (converts back to DC, has battery back up and has a precision Inverter circuit) gives a constant current and frequency. Always plug servers and critical components into one of these, as they can save a lot of money and hassle for the sake of a ton.
 
slob.....had them halogen light before. Was using those that runs on a railing with swivel arms.....they draw too much amps tho.....good fer the winter as they emit lots of heat but bad fer the summer.....

take5.......good grief....a UPS backup battery pack.....can charge up the bugger during the journey too....am currently using a surge protector to stabilise the current for the past 6 months and seems to work.....
 
i ran 5 of them lightsz off a battery pack last year and they wur fine, just plug the pack into car when out the following day and i had no problems...this year wiff me fridge and more lights and me other stuff i've gone wiff a converter.

but i have two of them packs and the one that should last longer dint, it should last about 1 1/2 times as long as the other but am lucky if it lasts 1/2 as long.

oh and griff ah dint care about hi jackin yer fred so nah!
 
guessed i'm another lazy pig.......once i'm all set on a camp site....am too fecking lazy to go anywhere else.......just laz around the camp...have me cup of tea or coffee.....and ice cream....then lit the barbeque and start the beer tap running.......

damn...when is the next camping trip.......
 
i got a 300w inverter about to go in, i only wanted it for phone charger and laptop! denied! so i cant use them?

i charged my free battery up tonight so i will see if it drops its charge over the next few days. hopefully it will be ok and i have a good free battery, yay.

what amp should the relay be on a split charge sys, designed for a winch?

G
 
I found on old UPS battery tray from work so I rigged them all up in parallel with the land rover batteries so they could all charge together. Later I thought it would be nice to be able to isolate the UPS batteries from the land rover batteries so I put a big switch in. Seems to work fine.

I did buy a fire extingwisher after though, I thought it might come in handy.

bye
 
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