L405 Vibration. Love this car, best advice?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Charles Banbury

Charles Banbury

Active Member
Posts
114
Location
Oxfordshire
Hello, and thank you from the start. Background: I’ve had Range Rovers for years, P38, L322, there was a discovery 3 in the mix. I now have an L405 4.4 TDV8. (2014 - 114,000, Full JLR history to 100.000) I love it. After purchase, I sent it for a health check at Venture 4x4 in Oxfordshire. There was a bit of a list! The car behaves perfectly on a day to day basis. But I have noticed some issues, and so have the professionals at Venture.
Big ticket items:
‘All the tyres are misshapen’ none with illegal tread.
Solution:
I have in my sitting room. Don’t, just, don’t, the **** I am in is epic. 4 new Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season for fitment on Monday.
I’m hoping that this will cure the ‘vibration’ at about 80 mph.
She is an old girl and I am more than happy to put the money in to future proof anything. I am going to post the list of jobs required. Could someone prioritise for me? Explain? I am not a mechanic of any sort. This will be done by the venture team. Things I have ticked, I assume I do now. Things I have crossed out, that’s stuff that I have a garage for who can fix it prior to the slot venture have. For example, I want the AC working before things get warm. I am realistic and don’t want to create a new car out of an old but also want to do things right. It does have a warranty. Obviously I will try them for some of it but I think we know the answer! Venture are great insistently. Any advice would be amazing.
Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    293.3 KB · Views: 109
Get your tyres fitted and that should sort out your issues as far as the rest is concerned it looks like 1 of those types of lists where a garage sees pound notes .

Just enjoy it ......
 
Aircon compressor not cutting in is likely to be either age, just needs a re-gas, or a leak. Needs a leak test and if none found a re-gas with leak detector dye included.
 
Thank you. Our messages crossed. Oil seals. That’s the big one for me. Crank must be a proper bill. It’s done 116k clearly there will be a leak somewhere. Nothing on the ground. Ever. Gearbox flush? Nothing in the history that it’s been done. Maybe not a flush, fluid change?
Many thanks again.
 
Charles Banbury said:
Thank you. Our messages crossed. Oil seals. That’s the big one for me. Crank must be a proper bill. It’s done 116k clearly there will be a leak somewhere. Nothing on the ground. Ever. Gearbox flush? Nothing in the history that it’s been done. Maybe not a flush, fluid change?
Many thanks again.
Click to expand...
I certainly would not do a gearbox flush, a change by all means. I'm surprised at the idea the crank seal is leaking, the mileage is not high, if there is no oil on the ground I'd leave well alone, indeed the oil might not be from the crank seal, small leaks get blown around.
 
Datatek said:
I certainly would not do a gearbox flush, a change by all means. I'm surprised at the idea the crank seal is leaking, the mileage is not high, if there is no oil on the ground I'd leave well alone, indeed the oil might not be from the crank seal, small leaks get blown around.
Click to expand...
Thank you. That’s what I need! One off the list!
 
Take it somewhere else!
If I produced 'health checks' as vague and with as many assumptions as that, I'd be out of the door.
Tyres can cause vibration - but so can distorted / damaged wheel rims, wheel bearings, ball joints, brake discs, brake calipers....
Airconditioning, the first thing should be a recover, vacuum & pressure test, recharge and test. - it's possible the pressure control valve in the compressor is sticking, this usually shows itself at less than 15deg. C. ambient.
The suspension fault - is it current or stored? the 'suspect exhaust valve' is a pure guess and not common to the L405.
Transmission oil change - well, with that mileage, it won't do any harm, I also am not a fan of 'flushes', the quality of the oil used is rarely up to the quality of the OEM stuff but will meet minimum specification.
Oil leak could be the oil cooler (again, assumption without any real checks) but equally could be the turbo oil feed (30 min fix with £2 in parts) or the EGR cooler seal (5 hours work and about £50 in parts) - needs confirming.

A lot of the other items are maintenance related and look a lot like fishing for work to me...

You really need proper diagnosis on all of the above and the list in general, not 'best guesses' based on the last car on the ramp.

Oh, I've never seen a crank seal leaking on a TDV8....
 
Last edited:
You have not ticked NSR arm bush? But have ticked the cv gator. Lots of these heavyweights suffer suspension bush wear. Get the whole rear bushes done along with the gators in 1 go.
Brakes suffering get a set of discs and pads all round (back first don’t forget epb )
Oil cooler leak could also show as a leaky rocker/ crank seal, so get that done first. (Oil leaks in the V mostly goes down back but) could also be your transfer box leak so don’t jump the gun there either.
Oh and get the gearbox oil changed if no proof it has been done in the service history. Flush not keen on them personally.

Obviously coolant leaks need fixed. AC could be a leak or system issue so needs checking if system actually has pressure first.
Obviously tyres first.
Good luck.

J
 
EPB on L405 is motors on the calipers, not shoes like L322/L319, the rear lower arm bushes can only be replaced with the lower (cast aluminium) arm, the chances are the bushes are OK and it's one of the many linkages that has excessive play - the lower arms are not 'solid' in that there is some resistive movement by design. Other than damage or seawater corrosion, I've never had to replace any rear suspension arms due to bush wear on L405.
 
Thank you everyone. Here is the thing. I have the car booked for the tyres on Monday if they arrive. AC in about 2 weeks. I live in Oxfordshire. The lead time for a RR mechanic. Good or otherwise is a bloody month, at least. Where do I go. Is there a place, week after next I can drive to. Will get a hotel. That will be excellent, reasonable, fix want is needed, not F**k me over and make my car what I need it to be. Using the information provided. Any takers! How can this be so hard?!
 
Sorry, not tyres, wheels. I bought a solid set of new alloys. Only 21 inch over the 20’s I have. The current are a little scabby. The new were less than a refurb. I have the correct tyres! I’m an idiot but not that much. Thanks again!
 
marjon said:
You have not ticked NSR arm bush? But have ticked the cv gator. Lots of these heavyweights suffer suspension bush wear. Get the whole rear bushes done along with the gators in 1 go.
Brakes suffering get a set of discs and pads all round (back first don’t forget epb )
Oil cooler leak could also show as a leaky rocker/ crank seal, so get that done first. (Oil leaks in the V mostly goes down back but) could also be your transfer box leak so don’t jump the gun there either.
Oh and get the gearbox oil changed if no proof it has been done in the service history. Flush not keen on them personally.

Obviously coolant leaks need fixed. AC could be a leak or system issue so needs checking if system actually has pressure first.
Obviously tyres first.
Good luck.

J
Click to expand...
I will tick that now. Thank you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
EVOQUE YES or NO
2 3 4
Replies
67
Views
5K
saxavordian
saxavordian
R
Advice on buying
Replies
9
Views
834
rockorover
R
A
P38A Head bolt removal question
Replies
6
Views
393
AndyF07
A
Radar1946
P38A Mobile mechanic near Lichfield, Staffs.
Replies
13
Views
699
Radar1946
Radar1946
S
L322 1st Time RR Owner
Replies
13
Views
1K
stubaldock
S
Back
Top