Vehicle ramp's.

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It took some time to decipher the post from the Hippo (who think's he's a Lord). Previous to my current VOGUE SE , I had a 2 door classic, it was very basic, ie. no air suspension/air con./ leather / manual box etc. I gave it away to the gardener. Neither of these vehicle's ever required towing whilst in my ownership. I have assisted numerous driver's with my 300Tdi , which can "chug" along happily @70 MPH and still plenty available when needed! I would not jump start any vehicle, when I drove a "freelander" I invested in a very necessary POWER PACK
 
Daft question if i may please , with the D3 I wouldn’t ever jump start another vehicle because of the electronics

Are u the same with urs ref jump starting plse

Thks

Ps, for ur viewing pleasure , lol


Whoever allowed that kid to jump over that strap needs a real hardcore slapping. :mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
Anyway my poor copy of the famed "Hippo-ramps" (tm)

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Moving the ramp out the way improves access
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Just knocked them up one morning out of scraps I had hanging around. But they work very well, giving a 6" lift.
 
Indeed ur spot on there , made me cringe as I thought please don’t tell me the rope snaps :eek:
The strap snapping would be the best case, the real problem happens when a tow ball flies back at warp factor 9.
I have seen that happen, fortunately it ended up going through rad grill/rad/fan/timing chest, rather than w/screen etc. Very scary.
 
Daft question if i may please , with the D3 I wouldn’t ever jump start another vehicle because of the electronics

Are u the same with urs ref jump starting plse

Thks

Ps, for ur viewing pleasure , lol


Eye never jump start cars oft mine. Eye prefer to start mine then connect their battery/car to mine. Leave mine on tick over for 5 mins then disconnect. Then they start their own engine oft their own battery.

Alternater output is linked to engine revs. Batteries saturate when charging. They can only take so much current regardless of more being available. It won't take more than about 15amps. Yer dun't need to rev it hard but some may need to rev at 1000 to 1200 if it's a small alternater. Mine is 180amp eye think.

If you start a car oft yours when it's running you apply a sudden demand for power which loads it more. The initial induced load creates a stress which isn't needed. You'll see the volts drop momentarily. Electronics in a car should be protected but it's not worth the risk. Electronics doesn't like surges. They don't take thousands of amps to jump start. Mine can jump start but eye choose not to.
 
Eye never jump start cars oft mine. Eye prefer to start mine then connect their battery/car to mine. Leave mine on tick over for 5 mins then disconnect. Then they start their own engine oft their own battery.

Alternater output is linked to engine revs. Batteries saturate when charging. They can only take so much current regardless of more being available. It won't take more than about 15amps. Yer dun't need to rev it hard but some may need to rev at 1000 to 1200 if it's a small alternater. Mine is 180amp eye think.

If you start a car oft yours when it's running you apply a sudden demand for power which loads it more. The initial induced load creates a stress which isn't needed. You'll see the volts drop momentarily. Electronics in a car should be protected but it's not worth the risk. Electronics doesn't like surges. They don't take thousands of amps to jump start. Mine can jump start but eye choose not to.

Thks, indeed heard horror stories where damage has been done , also seeing the alternators are suppose to be called smart alternators of being controlled by an ecu

Alas I won’t jump start under any circumstances

As a side note the amount of boilers that use to have the circuit boards cooked where it’s had a power cut and then when the power has been turned back on spikes the board and fries it
 
Eye never jump start cars oft mine. Eye prefer to start mine then connect their battery/car to mine. Leave mine on tick over for 5 mins then disconnect. Then they start their own engine oft their own battery.

Alternater output is linked to engine revs. Batteries saturate when charging. They can only take so much current regardless of more being available. It won't take more than about 15amps. Yer dun't need to rev it hard but some may need to rev at 1000 to 1200 if it's a small alternater. Mine is 180amp eye think.

If you start a car oft yours when it's running you apply a sudden demand for power which loads it more. The initial induced load creates a stress which isn't needed. You'll see the volts drop momentarily. Electronics in a car should be protected but it's not worth the risk. Electronics doesn't like surges. They don't take thousands of amps to jump start. Mine can jump start but eye choose not to.
But they do take hundreds.
My Transit is Ex RAC and has Anderson connectors for jump starting, I have used them many times to help people out. Done right there is no danger.
 
But they do take hundreds.
My Transit is Ex RAC and has Anderson connectors for jump starting, I have used them many times to help people out. Done right there is no danger.
Batteries saturate when charging. There's a bit of an inrush then the current soon drops after a number of seconds. Measure it and see with a very low resistor of 0.01ohm and measure the volt drop across said resister with a scope. As for electronics... The worst thing you can do is apply a sudden spike. Like first switching it on or suddenly loading it, causing a spike. Your vehicle your choice and your risk. There are peeps who still believe disconnecting a battery and shorting the leads is the best thing to do. It is not.
 
Batteries saturate when charging. There's a bit of an inrush then the current soon drops after a number of seconds. Measure it and see with a very low resistor of 0.01ohm and measure the volt drop across said resister with a scope. As for electronics... The worst thing you can do is apply a sudden spike. Like first switching it on or suddenly loading it, causing a spike. Your vehicle your choice and your risk. There are peeps who still believe disconnecting a battery and shorting the leads is the best thing to do. It is not.
Depending on the charge voltage, a charge current of 30 amps plus can be maintained until the battery cooks as can happen with a constant current charger.
On a vehicle, the alternator is a constant voltage device, so as the battery voltage rises, the charge current drops, thus on some new vehicles you have smart alternators that will maintain a high charge current for a defined period of time to cope with vehicles used for short runs. I used to fit smart regulators to alternators on boats.
Batteries are pretty good at absorbing spikes, look at the output of an alternator with your scope with no battery connected, it's a mass of spikes.
 
Depending on the charge voltage, a charge current of 30 amps plus can be maintained until the battery cooks as can happen with a constant current charger.
On a vehicle, the alternator is a constant voltage device, so as the battery voltage rises, the charge current drops, thus on some new vehicles you have smart alternators that will maintain a high charge current for a defined period of time to cope with vehicles used for short runs. I used to fit smart regulators to alternators on boats.
Batteries are pretty good at absorbing spikes, look at the output of an alternator with your scope with no battery connected, it's a mass of spikes.
I'm not going to run my engine with the battery disconnected to measure the alternator output. It's a risk to a vehicle ter do this and a bad idea. It's pointless us arguing.
 
I'm not going to run my engine with the battery disconnected to measure the alternator output. It's a risk to a vehicle ter do this and a bad idea. It's pointless us arguing.
Agree with you Hippo, you will cook an alternator running it without a battery connection.
 
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