In <
[email protected]> Lbserve1 wrote:
> We have had our disco v8i for just over a year now and every now &
> then it refuses to start, so i took the plugs out & found them soaked
> with petrol, cleand them left it a while then it would start, this
> time it fires (on 3 or 4 cylinders) but will not start, I had a mobile
> mechanic come round he said it was the ignition module, bought and
> fitted a new on but still no go can anyone help please, i can be
> contacted on [email protected] and live in norfolk
Which engine and, if you know, which injection system (engine size and
year might give that info but it's better to know for sure !)
If it's a 3.5 with flapper injection (did they ever fit those to Discos ???)
then disconnect the cold start injector (plug at the top, centre of the
right hand side of the plenum chamber). This injector is used as a choke
by the flapper system but is stupid enough to keep injecting loads of
fuel until you get petrol dripping out of the exhaust ! Many people with
this setup run with it permanently disconnected as it is the number one
source of flooded engines EFi !
These setups also suffer from idle air valve problems where the valve
fails to open so you are effectively trying to start the engine with no
air and loads of fuel. Starting vehicles with this setup is also an art
and you should never use short cranking periods - if it doesn't start in
the first few seconds then keep cranking because every time you start
cranking it will throw tons of extra fuel into the engine.
On the hotwire you can use it's "flooded start" feature by flooring the
throttle while you try and start it - anything over 50 percent throttle
and the ECU deliberately puts in too little fuel to help clear fouled
plugs.
Anyway, assuming that the mechanic wasn't completely useless and
correctly diagnosed an ignition problem rather than fuelling then....
I'll take a wild guess here and assume you have a circa 95, 96 3.9 EFi
in which case you need to temporarily run a wire from the positive side
of the coil to the battery +ve (preferably ignition switched but it
doesn't really matter for test purposes - you may have to disconnect the
wire to stop the engine though if you connect direct). If this cures the
problem then it's 99 percent certain that your immobiliser spider has
failed and is not supplying enough power for the coil.
The above test is worth doing regardless of year or model but certain
model years are more prone to the spider problem. There are other causes
for low voltage and/or current at the coil, the spider is just the
normal one.
cheers
Dave W.
http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
