V8 temperature

L

Liam

Guest

• Sep 18, 2004

• #1

Hi

I've fitted a thermostatic switch to the electric cooling fan I have fitted
to my 3.5 V8 Series 3, at what temperature should I set the fan to switch on
at ?
Also at what sort of temperature is the engine considered to be overheating?

Thanks

Liam

www.sumpoil.freeserve.co.uk

 

L

Lee_D

Guest

• Sep 18, 2004

• #2

"Liam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi
>
> I've fitted a thermostatic switch to the electric cooling fan I have
> fitted to my 3.5 V8 Series 3, at what temperature should I set the fan to
> switch on at ?
> Also at what sort of temperature is the engine considered to be
> overheating?
>
> Thanks
>
> Liam
>
> www.sumpoil.freeserve.co.uk

It's a bit of a grey area as it depends where the sensor is fitted as there
can be quite a difference between location. As a guide the 101 has a V8 with
Capilary gauge sender in the top of the manifold. Hot is 110 deg c. I found
normal motoray running to be 84 deg C cruise and hills 87 deg C (as per a
maplins temp gauge just before it gave up the ghost).

I'd say 93 Upward and see if it comes on too often. Keep an eye on the
gauge.. If you start getting twichy because it's nt kicked in then adjust it
so it comes on comfortably before the red.

A 101's V8 is hauling alot more landrover ass than your common garden Rangie
so my figures may be above the norm.

Lee D
--

www.lrproject.com

Workshop photos from Landrover repairs
& other such tinkerings.
Home of Percy the Jag powered Landrover

 

S

Steve

Guest

• Sep 19, 2004

• #3

"Liam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi
>
> I've fitted a thermostatic switch to the electric cooling fan I have
fitted
> to my 3.5 V8 Series 3, at what temperature should I set the fan to switch
on
> at ?
> Also at what sort of temperature is the engine considered to be
overheating?
>
> Thanks
>
> Liam
>
> www.sumpoil.freeserve.co.uk
>

I've got a V8 in my SIII with electric cooling fan which uses a capillary
sensor in the top hose just after the thermostat. I've adjusted the fan to
switch in when the temperature needle on the dash gauge just clears the top
of the 'N' on the gauge. I've no idea what this temperature is, but it
works fine. I'm using the standard SIII radiator too and the fan never cuts
in during normal cruising (I've got an indicator light rigged up that shows
me when the fan is running) - the unassisted airflow through the rad keeps
the temp needle on the bottom end of the 'N'. The only time the fan runs is
when I'm in very slow moving traffic or crawling around offroad (no ram air
through the rad).

Steve

 

N

Nikki Cluley

Guest

• Sep 19, 2004

• #4

in article [email protected], Liam at
[email protected] wrote on 18/9/04 10:19 pm:

> Hi
>
> I've fitted a thermostatic switch to the electric cooling fan I have fitted
> to my 3.5 V8 Series 3, at what temperature should I set the fan to switch on
> at ?
> Also at what sort of temperature is the engine considered to be overheating?
>
> Thanks
>
> Liam
>
> www.sumpoil.freeserve.co.uk
>
>
Can't tell you what the temp is - just where the needle sits on the guage.
Discovery 3.5 V8i just below the quarter mark and whilst towing caravan to
Wales, just under the half way mark.
Range Rover 3.5 sits on the half way mark or just under.
--
Nikki

1990 Discovery V8i
1985 Range Rover V8
1975 88" Series III 2.25 petrol
1979 Series III Lightweight 2.25 petrol

 

L

Liam

Guest

• Sep 20, 2004

• #5

"Nikki Cluley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BD7325C8.F99C%[email protected]...
> in article [email protected], Liam at
> [email protected] wrote on 18/9/04 10:19 pm:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> I've fitted a thermostatic switch to the electric cooling fan I have
>> fitted
>> to my 3.5 V8 Series 3, at what temperature should I set the fan to switch
>> on
>> at ?
>> Also at what sort of temperature is the engine considered to be
>> overheating?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Liam
>>
>> www.sumpoil.freeserve.co.uk
>>
>>
> Can't tell you what the temp is - just where the needle sits on the guage.
> Discovery 3.5 V8i just below the quarter mark and whilst towing caravan
> to
> Wales, just under the half way mark.
> Range Rover 3.5 sits on the half way mark or just under.
> --
> Nikki
>
> 1990 Discovery V8i
> 1985 Range Rover V8
> 1975 88" Series III 2.25 petrol
> 1979 Series III Lightweight 2.25 petrol
>

According to my gauge normal running is around 85 C but when stationary or
slow moving it only takes a minuet or so for it to rise to 95 C so I've set
the fan to come on at about 90 C.

Once the fans are running the temperature doesn't go down or up and the fans
just keep running, is this normal or should the temperature drop with the
fans on.

The radiator (Range Rover) as far as I know is in good condition, the fans
are two 14" (?) Kenlows. The gauge sender is mounted in the inlet manifold
and the fan switch is in the top hose of the radiator.


Liam

 

A

AJG

Guest

• Sep 20, 2004

• #6

In message <[email protected]>, Liam
<[email protected]> writes
>
>>
>
>According to my gauge normal running is around 85 C but when stationary or
>slow moving it only takes a minuet or so for it to rise to 95 C so I've set
>the fan to come on at about 90 C.
>
>Once the fans are running the temperature doesn't go down or up and the fans
>just keep running, is this normal or should the temperature drop with the
>fans on.
>
I assume you've got an 80 degree thermostat (or thereabouts). When this
starts to open the rad cools the water and the overall engine
temperature stabilises at 85 degrees. As the rad can't cope with the
heat when there's no air-flow the temperature rises. When the fans turn
on this should cool the rad and thus the overall temperature should drop
to whatever the 'off-point' is of the fans. With two 14" fans the
temperature should drop like a stone. Since this isn't happening I'd
suggest the following in order:
1) check *both* fans are running and are close to the rad!
2) check the rad isn't full of mud/dirt/grass/pedestrians - wash it out
3) flush the rad - good reverse flush with a hose

--
AndyG

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Sep 20, 2004

• #7

On or around Mon, 20 Sep 2004 19:44:53 +0100, AJG
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>3) flush the rad - good reverse flush with a hose

FWIW, I've never made this do anything worthwhile. a knackered rad is still
knackered afterwards, unless you have a really huge water supply. Normal
domestic water supply will happily flow through about a couple of dozen rad
tubes, without generating enough pressure to flush the rest. now if you had
a 1.5" bore pipe with about a hundred foot head behind it, you might stand a
chance.

 

N

Nikki Cluley

Guest

• Sep 20, 2004

• #8

in article [email protected], Austin Shackles at
[email protected] wrote on 20/9/04 8:04 pm:

> On or around Mon, 20 Sep 2004 19:44:53 +0100, AJG
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>> 3) flush the rad - good reverse flush with a hose
>
> FWIW, I've never made this do anything worthwhile. a knackered rad is still
> knackered afterwards, unless you have a really huge water supply. Normal
> domestic water supply will happily flow through about a couple of dozen rad
> tubes, without generating enough pressure to flush the rest. now if you had
> a 1.5" bore pipe with about a hundred foot head behind it, you might stand a
> chance.

cold water pressure washer?
--
Nikki

1990 Discovery V8i
1985 Range Rover V8
1975 88" Series III 2.25 petrol
1979 Series III Lightweight 2.25 petrol

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Sep 20, 2004

• #9

Liam wrote:

> Once the fans are running the temperature doesn't go down or up and the fans
> just keep running, is this normal or should the temperature drop with the
> fans on.

The temperature should drop with the fans on, then the fans should cut
out. You'll probably have better results with the fan thermostat
mounted in the top tank of the radiator or in the top of the thermostat
housing so it's seeing the temperature of the water leaving the engine,
and you're sure it actually has a good flow of water past it.


--
EMB
change two to the number to reply

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Sep 20, 2004

• #10

On or around Mon, 20 Sep 2004 20:42:56 +0100, Nikki Cluley
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>in article [email protected], Austin Shackles at
>[email protected] wrote on 20/9/04 8:04 pm:
>
>> On or around Mon, 20 Sep 2004 19:44:53 +0100, AJG
>> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>> 3) flush the rad - good reverse flush with a hose
>>
>> FWIW, I've never made this do anything worthwhile. a knackered rad is still
>> knackered afterwards, unless you have a really huge water supply. Normal
>> domestic water supply will happily flow through about a couple of dozen rad
>> tubes, without generating enough pressure to flush the rest. now if you had
>> a 1.5" bore pipe with about a hundred foot head behind it, you might stand a
>> chance.
>
>cold water pressure washer?

still no flow rate though, it's flow rate you need. the CWPwasher actually
uses *less* water, at V high pressure. The problem is that all the tubes
add up to more surface area than you think, and the typical garden hose is
only about 15 tubes-worth, maybe 20. So long as that many tubes are clear,
you're not gonna get any build-up of pressure.

 

L

Liam

Guest

• Sep 21, 2004

• #11

"AJG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I assume you've got an 80 degree thermostat (or thereabouts). When this
> starts to open the rad cools the water and the overall engine temperature
> stabilises at 85 degrees. As the rad can't cope with the heat when there's
> no air-flow the temperature rises. When the fans turn on this should cool
> the rad and thus the overall temperature should drop to whatever the
> 'off-point' is of the fans. With two 14" fans the temperature should drop
> like a stone. Since this isn't happening I'd suggest the following in
> order:
> 1) check *both* fans are running and are close to the rad!
> 2) check the rad isn't full of mud/dirt/grass/pedestrians - wash it out
> 3) flush the rad - good reverse flush with a hose
>
> --
> AndyG

I had already given the rad a thorough clean and when I flushed it out there
didn't seem to be any dirt coming out.
The fans are both running in the right direction and they are actually
mounted directly onto the rad its self, the cowling around the fans kind of
seals against the rad so all the air can only go through the rad.

One thing I just noticed today was when I had the engine running with the
bonnet open, when the fans came on the temp dropped straight away and the
fans switched off after a minute or so.
So I'm thinking that there may be a air flow problem through the engine bay
when the bonnet is closed.

Liam

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Sep 21, 2004

• #12

On or around Tue, 21 Sep 2004 16:23:50 GMT, "Liam"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>"AJG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I assume you've got an 80 degree thermostat (or thereabouts). When this
>> starts to open the rad cools the water and the overall engine temperature
>> stabilises at 85 degrees. As the rad can't cope with the heat when there's
>> no air-flow the temperature rises. When the fans turn on this should cool
>> the rad and thus the overall temperature should drop to whatever the
>> 'off-point' is of the fans. With two 14" fans the temperature should drop
>> like a stone. Since this isn't happening I'd suggest the following in
>> order:
>> 1) check *both* fans are running and are close to the rad!
>> 2) check the rad isn't full of mud/dirt/grass/pedestrians - wash it out
>> 3) flush the rad - good reverse flush with a hose
>>
>> --
>> AndyG
>
>I had already given the rad a thorough clean and when I flushed it out there
>didn't seem to be any dirt coming out.
>The fans are both running in the right direction and they are actually
>mounted directly onto the rad its self, the cowling around the fans kind of
>seals against the rad so all the air can only go through the rad.
>
>One thing I just noticed today was when I had the engine running with the
>bonnet open, when the fans came on the temp dropped straight away and the
>fans switched off after a minute or so.
>So I'm thinking that there may be a air flow problem through the engine bay
>when the bonnet is closed.

has it got aircon? Sister's BF had loads of hassle with a 3.9 V8 with
aircon overheating, and in the end removed the aircon radiator, which solved
it, by allowing a decent aifrlow through the main rad.

 

L

Liam

Guest

• Sep 21, 2004

• #13

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> has it got aircon? Sister's BF had loads of hassle with a 3.9 V8 with
> aircon overheating, and in the end removed the aircon radiator, which
> solved
> it, by allowing a decent aifrlow through the main rad.
>
>
>

No it doesn't have aircon.

Liam