V8 starting problems!

Hi

Putting this on for a mate that's got starting problems from cold with a 3.5l V8 in a series 2a.

It's got electronic ignition (no points) with a little flat amplifier thing on inner wing.

It takes him ages to start, it will eventualy start run for 3 seconds then die, once it's done this a few times it will start and run all day.

Perso would say it was the condensator,which it has but why?? there are no points!

Cheers

Jason

Jason2 said:

Hi

starting problems from cold with a 3.5l V8 in a series 2a.

It's got electronic ignition (no points) with a little flat amplifier thing on inner wing.

It takes him ages to start, it will eventualy start run for 3 seconds then die, once it's done this a few times it will start and run all day.

Perso would say it was the condensator,which it has but why?? there are no points!

Click to expand...

Is it EFI or Carbs?

If EFI, probably temperature thermistor. If carbs, does the choke work properly?

Not sure what a condensator is - do you mean a condenser? The elctronic ignition system doesn't have one that I'm aware of, or are you referring to the capacitor attached to the ignition coil.

Is there a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit? These have been known to cause problems.

Has your mate checked the condition of the rotor arm and dizzy cap? Ignition amplifier is unlikely to be the cause, they more commonly fail when hot.

classic kev said:

Is it EFI or Carbs?

If EFI, probably temperature thermistor. If carbs, does the choke work properly?

Not sure what a condensator is - do you mean a condenser? The elctronic ignition system doesn't have one that I'm aware of, or are you referring to the capacitor attached to the ignition coil.

Is there a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit? These have been known to cause problems.

Has your mate checked the condition of the rotor arm and dizzy cap? Ignition amplifier is unlikely to be the cause, they more commonly fail when hot.

Click to expand...

Hi

Yeh sorry, I ment to say condenser but you say it's not it's a capacitor? Could it be that.

I thought about the choke too unfourtunatly he lives about 2hrs away so it's not as if i can have a look myself.

Cheers

Jason

Jason2 said:

Hi

Yeh sorry, I ment to say condenser but you say it's not it's a capacitor? Could it be that.

I thought about the choke too unfourtunatly he lives about 2hrs away so it's not as if i can have a look myself.

Cheers

Jason

Click to expand...

There should be a capacitor connected to the coil but I would not expect this to cause the symptoms you describe.

The choke is a more likely place to start looking - assuming it is on carbs and not EFI. It is common for automatic chokes to stop working properly, usually all that is required is for the choke mechanism to be taken off, stripped down and cleaned ensuring that all the moving parts are free and that the bi-metallic spring is in one piece. The other thought that occurs to me is if it is on carbs, when were they last serviced?

classic kev said:

There should be a capacitor connected to the coil but I would not expect this to cause the symptoms you describe.

The choke is a more likely place to start looking - assuming it is on carbs and not EFI. It is common for automatic chokes to stop working properly, usually all that is required is for the choke mechanism to be taken off, stripped down and cleaned ensuring that all the moving parts are free and that the bi-metallic spring is in one piece. The other thought that occurs to me is if it is on carbs, when were they last serviced?

Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for your help kev

It's and old 3.5l with carbs, I know that he has had a look at the carbs as he was complaining of a high tick over! but don't know what he did?

I will give him a ring tonight.

Cheers

Jason

After phoning my mate:

He says that carbs are OK, Choke working correctly.

The only way that he can start it at the moment is to spend at least 5 minutes disconecting the + from the coil to the distributer and quickly touching the coil

Jason2 said:

After phoning my mate:

He says that carbs are OK, Choke working correctly.

The only way that he can start it at the moment is to spend at least 5 minutes disconecting the + from the coil to the distributer and quickly touching the coil

Click to expand...

That'll be an ignition type problem by the sound of it. First test coil.

Replace capacitor, Rimmer Bros stock these I think they are only £2.00. Check the ballast resistor if it has one. Check the ignition amplifier (just in case). Ignition amplifiers can be had at sensible money from good independent motor factors, make sure you get the right one for the ignition system or you'll have to buy the patch leads and more messing about.

classic kev said:

That'll be an ignition type problem by the sound of it. First test coil.

Replace capacitor, Rimmer Bros stock these I think they are only £2.00. Check the ballast resistor if it has one. Check the ignition amplifier (just in case). Ignition amplifiers can be had at sensible money from good independent motor factors, make sure you get the right one for the ignition system or you'll have to buy the patch leads and more messing about.

Click to expand...

Hi Kev

It seems to be the capacitor (on the side of the distributor fed from the coil) My mates tried another one but not the right one, it's starts ok but run's like a pile of crap)

Problem is getting one as the V8 is a realy old one probably out of a old Rover,might be a SDI one as that has electronic ignition!any ideas?

Thanks once again

Jason

Jason2 said:

Hi Kev

It seems to be the capacitor (on the side of the distributor fed from the coil) My mates tried another one but not the right one, it's starts ok but run's like a pile of crap)

Problem is getting one as the V8 is a realy old one probably out of a Rover P5 or P6! any ideas?

Thanks once again

Jason

Click to expand...

Look on Rimmer bros website. If engine out of old Rover they will probably list the right part but I didn't know the early rover engines had electronic ignition. The thing on the side of the dizzy is an ignition amplifier, so it sounds like the dizzy may be off another (newer) engine, they are as far as I know interchangeable but there are slight differences in the advance curves but that should not be so much of an issue to stop it from running. Also, some electronic ignition systems on Range Rovers had a remote ignition amplifier. Do a search I'm sure you'll find all the info you need, at least it runs (well sort of) which is a bonus, it is a real problem when you can't get them going at all.

I read somewhere recently about the various dizzy types on RV8's, I think it may have been on the rimmer Bros website. have a search about, I'm sure you'll find what you need.

classic kev said:

Look on Rimmer bros website. If engine out of old Rover they will probably list the right part but I didn't know the early rover engines had electronic ignition. The thing on the side of the dizzy is an ignition amplifier, so it sounds like the dizzy may be off another (newer) engine, they are as far as I know interchangeable but there are slight differences in the advance curves but that should not be so much of an issue to stop it from running. Also, some electronic ignition systems on Range Rovers had a remote ignition amplifier. Do a search I'm sure you'll find all the info you need, at least it runs (well sort of) which is a bonus, it is a real problem when you can't get them going at all.

I read somewhere recently about the various dizzy types on RV8's, I think it may have been on the rimmer Bros website. have a search about, I'm sure you'll find what you need.

Click to expand...

Nah! Changed post in between, first rover with electronic ignition was the SD1.

Thanks once again for all your help Kev

Believe me or believe not but I saw my mate this weekend and he has solved his problem!

With?













A slack hand of wd40 under the distributor cap you live and learn