V8 conversion help required

I'd just like the group's thoughts and experiences on transplanting a
Range Rover V8 engine into a Landy 90.

Donor vehicle is 1984 3.5V8 Carb LT77 g/box. Recipient vehicle is 1886
D90 n/a Diesel

I am aware of the fuel, exhaust; cooling and electrical issues but
need a few tips on the mechanical side:

Q Are the engine mount positions the same? (i.e. will it bolt straight
in?)

Q Since both vehicles use LT77 boxes would it be easier to remove and
transplant as one unit?

Q Will the Range Rover front axle and steering box (3 bolt) transplant
directly? As the recipient vehicles s/box and axle is pretty much u/s

The expectation is to do this as an Autumn project and I will
appreciate any advice or pointers you guys have, and also if all
things go well to keep you all informed.

Many thanks in advance

-Tim

-----Signatures are for humans!!------

** Bite My Shiny Metal Ass to email **

"Bender" <bender@shiny_Fe_ass_starspath.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd just like the group's thoughts and experiences on transplanting a
> Range Rover V8 engine into a Landy 90.
>
> Donor vehicle is 1984 3.5V8 Carb LT77 g/box. Recipient vehicle is 1886
> D90 n/a Diesel
>
> I am aware of the fuel, exhaust; cooling and electrical issues but
> need a few tips on the mechanical side:
>
> Q Are the engine mount positions the same? (i.e. will it bolt straight
> in?)

No. Cut the mounts off the v8 chassis and weld to the 90, after determining
correct position.

> Q Since both vehicles use LT77 boxes would it be easier to remove and
> transplant as one unit?

Yes, the LT77 for the v8 has a much longer input shaft and bellhousing. Line
the 'box up on the current mounts, drop the engine in temporarily with a
couple of bellhousing bolts and ascertain engine mount positioning then tack
weld, remove engine and fully weld. Then fit engine properly.

> Q Will the Range Rover front axle and steering box (3 bolt) transplant
> directly? As the recipient vehicles s/box and axle is pretty much u/s

Yes, but use the rangie radius arms and panhard rods as well.

> The expectation is to do this as an Autumn project and I will
> appreciate any advice or pointers you guys have, and also if all
> things go well to keep you all informed.

You will be ok with the D90 radiator as well, if it's a standard engine.

Badger.

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 22:11:12 +0100, "Badger"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Bender" <bender@shiny_Fe_ass_starspath.com> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...

>> Q Are the engine mount positions the same? (i.e. will it bolt straight
>> in?)
>
>No. Cut the mounts off the v8 chassis and weld to the 90, after determining
>correct position.
>
>> Q Since both vehicles use LT77 boxes would it be easier to remove and
>> transplant as one unit?
>
>Yes, the LT77 for the v8 has a much longer input shaft and bellhousing. Line
>the 'box up on the current mounts, drop the engine in temporarily with a
>couple of bellhousing bolts and ascertain engine mount positioning then tack
>weld, remove engine and fully weld. Then fit engine properly.

Thanks for the reply!!

When temporarily positioning the engine with the gearbox on its mounts
have you any pointers to know if the engine is "square" with the
drivetrain before I tack the mountings to the chassis?

I would assume there is a pretty large margin but I would like to make
sure.

Thanks
-Tim

Bender <bender@shiny_Fe_ass_starspath.com> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> Thanks for the reply!!
>
> When temporarily positioning the engine with the gearbox on its mounts
> have you any pointers to know if the engine is "square" with the
> drivetrain before I tack the mountings to the chassis?
>
> I would assume there is a pretty large margin but I would like to make
> sure.
>
> Thanks
> -Tim

Yeah... look through the starter handle hole if you have one in the bumper.

If not imagine a straight line through the hole in the front cross member
from the centre of the crank pulley nut, then check the bell housing isn't
fouling any cross members and the prop angles look right along with the
location of the various levers which emerge in to the cab.

Least thats what I did when I put the 4.2 Jag lump in.

Think the other thing to watch will be the Oil filter proximity to the
diff... many fit remotes but the set up in Percy is such that the engine
(Now a V8) is so far back this isn't an issue, though I may be having
"issues" when I come to fit an exhaust.

Lee D

"Bender" <bender@shiny_Fe_ass_starspath.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 22:11:12 +0100, "Badger"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Bender" <bender@shiny_Fe_ass_starspath.com> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> >> Q Are the engine mount positions the same? (i.e. will it bolt straight
> >> in?)
> >
> >No. Cut the mounts off the v8 chassis and weld to the 90, after
determining
> >correct position.
> >
> >> Q Since both vehicles use LT77 boxes would it be easier to remove and
> >> transplant as one unit?
> >
> >Yes, the LT77 for the v8 has a much longer input shaft and bellhousing.
Line
> >the 'box up on the current mounts, drop the engine in temporarily with a
> >couple of bellhousing bolts and ascertain engine mount positioning then
tack
> >weld, remove engine and fully weld. Then fit engine properly.
>
> Thanks for the reply!!
>
> When temporarily positioning the engine with the gearbox on its mounts
> have you any pointers to know if the engine is "square" with the
> drivetrain before I tack the mountings to the chassis?
>
> I would assume there is a pretty large margin but I would like to make
> sure.

Bolt the V8 mounts that you cut from the other chassis onto the engine
whilst hanging it in, then centralise them on the chassis in the same way
that they sat on the rangie chassis, the chassis rails are the same distance
apart. The oil filter will clear the front diff ok if everything else is
standard.
Badger.

Thanks all for your help. Will let the the group know how things
progress once we get things rolling