Upgrading Clutch Pedal

neilly said:

Also , you can always give LOF a call, there customer service is fantastic.

Cheers

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yeah jsut dropped Luke and email now,
I cant see how that bolt would affect the spring? Am i being stupid but we are talking about the bolt that you use to set the pedal height right?
If i wind that in isnt that going to push the clutch pedal down a smidge at rest. Does that mean there is less travel on the MC pushrod so the spring wont go over-centre?
I jsut been to look at an old pedal box i have lying around

flat said:

yeah jsut dropped Luke and email now,
I cant see how that bolt would affect the spring? Am i being stupid but we are talking about the bolt that you use to set the pedal height right?
If i wind that in isnt that going to push the clutch pedal down a smidge at rest. Does that mean there is less travel on the MC pushrod so the spring wont go over-centre?
I jsut been to look at an old pedal box i have lying around

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Not sure what set up you have, but mine has this. But it is a bitsa. I just wound that 17mm bolt in a turn or so and it stopped it overstroking.

Cheers

aah i dont have that, mine has a smaller 10mm bolt halfway up the front of the pedal box :/

flat said:

aah i dont have that, mine has a smaller 10mm bolt halfway up the front of the pedal box :/

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Cheers

Is that 140mm with or without the pedal rubber fitted?
I am guessing without, but it does make quite a difference.

neilly said:

View attachment 210428

Cheers

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so have i set up wrong then? Is that not for setting pedal height?
Do you se the pedal height on the pushrod nuts?

On the TD5/Puma the pedal height is set with the nuts on the master cylinder pushrod.
Set at 140mm as shown above.
The screw and locknut is to set the lower end stop on the pedal, adjust so that when the pedal is fully down, the clutch disengages without any drag (try selecting reverse after you’ve been for a drive)

flat said:

so have i set up wrong then? Is that not for setting pedal height?
Do you se the pedal height on the pushrod nuts?

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If you take the cover of the box you can see what that adjustment bolt does. On mine (which as I say is a bitsa,) it only adjusts the down stop position.

Cheers

wait i cracked it, this is what i used to setup (or simialr in the haynes manual)


which is clearly for an earlier pedal box, really confused now lol

think i will have to leave it until i can look at it again, i think i will undo the whole lot and set the pedal height using the locknuts on the pushrod

Right @neilly I have just been outside and taken photos with the clutch pedal wedged down, mine is definitely not a pedal stop the pedal only touches it when the pedal is in the up position

and this is with the clutch pedal up, the pedal rests against that little bolt you can see in my earlier photos - hard to see in this photo but it definitely does.

flat said:

and this is with the clutch pedal up, the pedal rests against that little bolt you can see in my earlier photos - hard to see in this photo but it definitely does.

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Yep makes sense, In the drawing I posted above this shows your style of pedal box as the pivot point is below the stop. On the box in my bitsa truck the stop is below the pivot point so it works the opposite way. In this case, I would say give Luke a call tomorrow and see what he has to say.

Cheers

neilly said:

Yep makes sense, In the drawing I posted above this shows your style of pedal box as the pivot point is below the stop. On the box in my bitsa truck the stop is below the pivot point so it works the opposite way. In this case, I would say give Luke a call tomorrow and see what he has to say.

Cheers

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cool will do, thanks for helping me get it straightened out in my head before i phone up luke and look like a ****.
Weird thing is it works perfectly with the factory over-centre spring.

Needs mroe fiddling with, i am not sure i have set the free-play at the MC pushrod quite right tbh

flat said:

Weird thing is it works perfectly with the factory over-centre spring.

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You are not the only one I have heard say this. I spoke with Luke at the Show in Feb, So he knows this is something others have seen. A mate of mine fitted the LOF master cylinder and took off the LOF spring as he found the same thing, He was happy with the way the master cylinder felt with the std over centre spring.

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers

@neilly

Spoke with Luke and basically at the moment the LOF spring can’t be used with my pedal box and clutch setup.

Clutch is about 3 years old with not about 20-25k on it so Luke says that the LOF spring is over powering the clutch fingers and hydraulic return pressure hence the pedal stays down.

His advice is to fit the factory spring for now but keep the LOF spring for future use because as the clutch wears it will get heavier.

I also asked him about long term parts availability of seals for the MC - basically they don’t supply them as they would warranty exchange like for like.

Quite happy with that, it isn’t me setting it up wrong.

I will summarise all this morning in a new thread to make it easier for others to find

Ed

flat said:

@neilly

Spoke with Luke and basically at the moment the LOF spring can’t be used with my pedal box and clutch setup.

Clutch is about 3 years old with not about 20-25k on it so Luke says that the LOF spring is over powering the clutch fingers and hydraulic return pressure hence the pedal stays down.

His advice is to fit the factory spring for now but keep the LOF spring for future use because as the clutch wears it will get heavier.

I also asked him about long term parts availability of seals for the MC - basically they don’t supply them as they would warranty exchange like for like.

Quite happy with that, it isn’t me setting it up wrong.

I will summarise all this morning in a new thread to make it easier for others to find

Ed

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Interesting stuff, Good to hear you have got it all clarified. Let us know how you get on with the MC as well. That is the one part I have not got. Although to be honest with the LOF spring fitted it is light enough.

Cheers

The LOF slave cylinder makes the clutch lighter due to it having a larger cylinder bore.
This means it takes more movement of the pedal to get the same result. With a new clutch this can be an issue, although on Defender you can adjust the pedal higher to give more travel to compensate.

lightning said:

The LOF slave cylinder makes the clutch lighter due to it having a larger cylinder bore.
This means it takes more movement of the pedal to get the same result. With a new clutch this can be an issue, although on Defender you can adjust the pedal higher to give more travel to compensate.

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I presume that the LOF master cylinder is a lever bore aswell?

neilly said:

Interesting stuff, Good to hear you have got it all clarified. Let us know how you get on with the MC as well. That is the one part I have not got. Although to be honest with the LOF spring fitted it is light enough.

Cheers

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Certainly will. First impressions are it’s very light but bite point remains the same, i want to double check MC Rod settings etc before properly road testing it.

At the moment it feels weird being so light tbh but that is likely because I am Not used to it!

flat said:

I presume that the LOF master cylinder is a lever bore aswell?

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Well, unless it somehow changes the pivot ratio then yes it’s the only way to reduce the pedal effort.