P38A Unrepairable EAS fault after side steps fitted?

Gord Wedman said:

It is quite possible to drive it while on the bump stops. I have done more than 100 miles this way. Just slow down when coming to uneven surfaces.

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Not round here. I drove 5 miles and almost lost my fillings. Another guy drove 20 miles and dis his back in!

Grrrrrr said:

Not round here. I drove 5 miles and almost lost my fillings. Another guy drove 20 miles and dis his back in!

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My run on the bump stops was around Derby, it caused no problems to me or the car.

I did Basingstoke to Langley once . . . . not fun but it got home.

marjon said:

You should ask @kurtjohnson10 if he has any compressors and/or rebuilt items he often does and by all accounts his are good.
You may still find its an easy fix.

If its on the stops 10-15 miles will kill the stops and your back, I would arm yourself with1 of those emergency kits TBH.

J

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I have a brand new pump for sale if they are interested -

I also have a fully refurbed valve block for sale as well, also quite a few brand new pressure switches for the valve blocks.

cornishboater said:

I would hate to see nipple marks on the roof lining :0

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Oh I don't know

Datatek said:

My run on the bump stops was around Derby, it caused no problems to me or the car.

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The roads are bad around here. Not helped by the HS2 construction traffic pummeling the roads. All for zero benefit.

Update - Overdue.
Moved the car to a family member's house, it was on the bump stops and ouch, bumpier than I remember the last time. Glad it was only 10 miles.

With credit to the guys who had it, they are really good specialists, and I think they gave up as it was costing them a lot of money in time. Checking over everything there is nothing obvious that they have done to cause this, possibly a coincidence.
They did find corroded connections behind the passenger kick panel and repaired some of them that required repairing. Comms to the BECM is fine, all seems to be working from my Hawkeye Total. 1 error was reported to the passenger seat outstation/module (I will worry about that later, it's been there for years).

The current situation is:
Start the engine and the compressor runs for 10 seconds maybe, then powers off giving an EAS fault and 35MPH Max on the display.
EAS lights all flash from then, and then they go solid.
The compressor is a brand-new Dunlop.
I did not have time to hook up the laptop and run EAS unlock, that is the plan for this weekend along with checking the continuity of the pressure switch (no longer need to do the thermal switch as it's new).
Will have the emergency inflation valves then too, so I can pump it up leave it and see if it loses any pressure.

kurtjohnson10 said:

I have a brand new pump for sale if they are interested -

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Missed that, I think I had bought mine a day or so before you posted, thanks anyway.

kurtjohnson10 said:

I also have a fully refurbed valve block for sale as well, also quite a few brand new pressure switches for the valve blocks.

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I have a good valve block, or so I believe. It was taken from a car that had a coil conversion, however, when I took off the valve block it was still holding a lot of air pressure in there. Also have the refurb kit which I was thinking of installing anyway.

JamesBB said:

I have a good valve block, or so I believe. It was taken from a car that had a coil conversion, however, when I took off the valve block it was still holding a lot of air pressure in there. Also have the refurb kit which I was thinking of installing anyway.

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Don't start swapping stuff without knowing what the fault is, you risk adding new problems. There is a hard fault on the EAS which should show on the EAS diagnostics.

if the axle was left and hanging without air in the bag when let down the rubber on the airbag can kink and leak

ok I have a list of faults from EAS Unlock (ver 3.x)

Checking the continuity of pressure switch, it is an open circuit.
Fuse #24 = 5A and is ok.
Fuse #29 = 10A but is missing........ Which is strange.
Fuse #35 = 5A and is ok.
Fuse #44 = 10A and is ok.

JamesBB said:

ok I have a list of faults from EAS Unlock (ver 3.x)

View attachment 309106

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Ok now you have the list have you tried to clear and see what happens?
Possibly damp crappy connectors .

J

JamesBB said:

Checking the continuity of pressure switch, it is an open circuit.
Fuse #24 = 5A and is ok.
Fuse #29 = 10A but is missing........ Which is strange.
Fuse #35 = 5A and is ok.
Fuse #44 = 10A and is ok.

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I'd go back to the left hand side kick panel, you said someone has repaired things in there that only needed doing. The rule of thumb is to solder all the wires in those connections. Also in the right hand side kick panel. Once checked and or repaired this can rule out an awful lot of issues with ease and the sound system as to say the least

marjon said:

Ok now you have the list have you tried to clear and see what happens?
Possibly damp crappy connectors .

J

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THey do not clear. Not sure what is going on. I can see the heights when it reads, so it is reading ok. Just not able to clear.

JamesBB said:

ok I have a list of faults from EAS Unlock (ver 3.x)

View attachment 309106

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That list of conflicting faults tell me that you have not established good comms with the ECU

Datatek said:

That list of conflicting faults tell me that you have not established good comms with the ECU

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But it is talking to it. where should I start looking?

+1 with you Keith, bad comms, when you are using EASUnlock do you get a good idle (green rather than red)