Tyre pressures Disco 2 TD5

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jimbernice

New Member
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3
Location
Norfolk
I have a year 2000 Disco 2 td5. The rear air suspension units have been replaced with ordinary springs. The tyre pressures are supposed to be 30 front and 38 rear. Are these pressures still ok with the modification?
 
I put between 30-35psi (depending on job or travel) in mine! But you can also check the tyre wall for info?
32-35psi is also a good all-rounder!

Kev
 
I have a year 2000 Disco 2 td5. The rear air suspension units have been replaced with ordinary springs. The tyre pressures are supposed to be 30 front and 38 rear. Are these pressures still ok with the modification?
The pressures have to do with the vehicle's weight not with suspension mods, the correct pressures are important to prolonge the life of the transfer box, for the ABS/HDC/EBD/TC to work as the SLABS was calibrated and get optimal consumption(provided the tyres are the recommended dimensions too) so IMO the best is to stick to those recommended by the vehicle's builder:
upload_2023-2-20_10-51-56.png

GVW = Maximum gross vehicle weight
- All 5 seat vehicles (coil suspension) .................... 2750 kg 6,063 lb

- Petrol engine (self-levelling suspension) ............. 2825 kg 6,228 lb

- Diesel engine (self-levelling suspension) ............. 2880 kg 6,349 lb
 
Which means you've ran it wrong all that time :rolleyes:
Tyre wear has been even and it drives perfect. No Transfer Box issues in all that time. I got these pressures from the previous owner who had it from new, and the pressures were as it was delivered and advised by the main dealer who supplied it. So it’s effectively ran on those pressures for 22 years.
 
So it’s effectively ran on those pressures for 22 years
:) so it ran wrong 22 not 15 years :D... maybe worth a try to run it with the recommended pressures to see if it's any difference then if you are fair enough to admit that maybe it's better.... even if you dont feel any difference the ABS systems were calibrated from factory for the specs which are in the WsM for the best behaviour ... for me it's completely irrelevant what a dealer who sells vehicles is saying and that everything is OK after 22 years of wrong pressures is in the same cathegory with the statement that my grandfather have smoked cigars for 80 years and he died at 96 in an accident which means that smoking is not bad for health ;)
 
:) so it ran wrong 22 not 15 years :D... maybe worth a try to run it with the recommended pressures to see if it's any difference then if you are fair enough to admit that maybe it's better.... even if you dont feel any difference the ABS systems were calibrated from factory for the specs which are in the WsM for the best behaviour ... for me it's completely irrelevant what a dealer who sells vehicles is saying and that everything is OK after 22 years of wrong pressures is in the same cathegory with the statement that my grandfather have smoked cigars for 80 years and he died at 96 in an accident which means that smoking is not bad for health ;)
This is actually quite an interesting and thought provoking debate. Discovery 2’s are notorious for steering box leaks. I am now wondering if this is “partly” due to front tyre pressure being too low for many. I could be talking through my posterior though, as I have ran mine at a higher pressure and still had output shaft seal leaks over the years.
 
This is actually quite an interesting and thought provoking debate. Discovery 2’s are notorious for steering box leaks. I am now wondering if this is “partly” due to front tyre pressure being too low for many. I could be talking through my posterior though, as I have ran mine at a higher pressure and still had output shaft seal leaks over the years.
I can't comment on that but what i know for sure is that i made several tests in mud with mine especially to gain some knowledge and i've got the best TC response and best driveability with std dimension tyres at the recommended pressures while i've got stuck once with bigger and evenly inflated tyres in similar terrain conditions.... though my driving skills could have been altered from time to time :cool:
 
Tyre pressures are an interesting debate. And I have never understood why the front ones are lower than the back ones, according to the book, although there is more weight at the front due to the position of the engine. AND most of the braking is done up front. Though this has been the case on every car I have ever owned.
Answers anyone?????
 
Tyre pressures are an interesting debate. And I have never understood why the front ones are lower than the back ones, according to the book, although there is more weight at the front due to the position of the engine. AND most of the braking is done up front. Though this has been the case on every car I have ever owned.
Answers anyone?????
I wonder if it’s higher on the back of a D2 due to the overhang, with back door and spare wheel at the end of it all ??
 
There can be many explanations like: understeer can be safer than oversteer, also since the there is more weight/more stress on the front they heat up faster and once they are hot the internal pressure increases anyway.... though the simplest is to trust the vehicle's builder cos he knows better why as that vehicle passed several tests before it came out from factory ;) ... that's enough for me to follow the recommendations
 
There can be many explanations like: understeer can be safer than oversteer, also since the there is more weight/more stress on the front they heat up faster and once they are hot the internal pressure increases anyway.... though the simplest is to trust the vehicle's builder cos he knows better why as that vehicle passed several tests before it came out from factory ;) ... that's enough for me to follow the recommendations
I too always follow the factory recommendations. Too easy to skid otherwise. But I also do up the pressure if travelling highly loaded, again to the as recommended pressures.
And it is worth making sure of the temp of the tyres before inflating theem, hotter ones are at higher pressure already!
 
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