Tub Cappings - quick question

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Karls

Active Member
Posts
508
Location
Gloucestershire
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Please see the attached photo. I thought I would include 'Bear' as he's watched the build from stripdown to where we are currently and he probably hates the sight of Land Rovers by now! Mind you...he'd guard it with his life!

(1985 Land Rover 90 Truck Cab):
My question is, the tub cappings are in two pieces where I have circled. If you zoom in you may be able to make out a 2-4mm gap between the side capping and the rear one. I have read elsewhere that early LR's had this design - is that correct?
I'd much rather go with a one piece in this area as it appears to be floating in the breeze. I haven't stripped the tub down further since taking this photo so haven't looked closely at why it's able to move so much.
Can I close the gap between the two parts and weld it up? I assume it will be galv under the paint but if I grind the galv back where I want to weld will this be feasible?

I am doing a complete strip down and rebuild of the LR and intend to refurbish the tub. How far would you normally strip a tub back? I want to replace the floor so that's been removed. The internal sides that cover the wheels are pretty well dented - is it ok to cover these with chequer plate?
 
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Mine's a 96 plate 90 and my cappings were all in one. The originals are mild steel not galvanised. Most people seem to refit with galvanised cappings. You could fill the gap with weld and then get yours shot blasted and galvanised if they are still in good enough condition. YRM sell galvanised replacements.
On my tub I replaced the floor plus the floor supports, the two rear quarter panels and fitted the YRM front tub repair panels. I'll go and measure my tub floor, I can't see it being too different to an 85 plate floor.
 
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My floor measures 125cm x 92cm.

Edit.
I've just looked on the YRM site. I bought my floor from them and their measurements are 1245mm x 915mm and they sell the same size for Defender 90 and series models, so yours will be the same.
 
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