Transfer box seals

Hi,
First post on this forum. Hope you can help. Just about to tackle replacing the leaky rear output shaft seal on the transfer box of my 2001 TD5. Bought the new seal kit including new drive flange.
Hoping to do it in situ. Any hints, tips or links to a good video would be grand.
Rgds Redroser

Welcome.

You could take photos of everystage and post them here to help people in the future ....

Have you got a manual, book or online? Getting at the seal is not too hard, It is important you note how far in the housing the old seal is fitted before you remove. A large screwdriver will do but a seal removal tool is handy.
When fitting new seal ensure it goes in square and does not distort, I like to start off with a small hammer lightly tapping around the edge to just engage with housing then use a section of tube or large socket to fully seat still just tapping in until required position is reached.

Hi. I've got an online manual. Looks like you've done this job before??

Yes, many times on both series and coil spring types. The front output is much the same but no hand brake unit. I am not a professional repairer but have been a Landy owner/driver for some 50 years.

tottot said:

Have you got a manual, book or online? Getting at the seal is not too hard, It is important you note how far in the housing the old seal is fitted before you remove. A large screwdriver will do but a seal removal tool is handy.
When fitting new seal ensure it goes in square and does not distort, I like to start off with a small hammer lightly tapping around the edge to just engage with housing then use a section of tube or large socket to fully seat still just tapping in until required position is reached.

Click to expand...

Reet handy if you have a mate who can machine a seating ring for the seal

Hi tottot
I'm assuming can reuse the studs out of the old rear drive flange for the new flange.

Handy mates - yip. Handy as well if you have one with a solid floored tractor garage.

Just checked back through some of my old posts because it's a task I've mentioned doing on here before. Unfortunately the only pictures I took were of the old flange unit, so not very enlightening. Not too difficult a task though. Propshaft off, handbrake drum off, flange off, seal levered out, new one in and then reverse the process. If it's been leaking inside the handbrake drum, then you might want new brake shoes for the handbrake too.

Hi thanks,
All done - sorry no pics was working in my mate's tractor garage and we were pushed for time. The job was real b****r though just because the numpties who had been in there before had done a crap job of re-assembly. I suspect it was when the previous owner had new brake shoes fitted. The nuts holding the drive shaft on were the old ones and two of them had completed knackered and rounded off - all for the sake of not spending a few pence on new ones - grrrrrr. To add insult to injury the posidrive head of the screw holding the drum to the drive flange had been utterly destroyed and locked in place by punching with a centre pop.
So new seal in place, fresh oil in transfer box, gear box drained and refilled and both diffs topped up.
Here's to the next set of jobs on the list

Not unusual to find " muck ups " on old landy's. Get yourself a prop bolt removal tool for future use, makes the job easier. [ will not remove well rounded heads but will help not to round them in the first place.]

Cheers. The prob was the nuts were on the transfer box output drive flange, so they were on studs. Wish I could have removed the nut who did the rubbish job in the first place.
Hey ho - just adds to the rich tapestry of life.