Transfer box failure

It's the plate witrh the slot in it (see pic) that wears, it's not available as a separate piece (as far as I know) I repaired mine (filled it with weld and filed it to shape).

tottot said:

In the pic above by "miktdish" you can see the little arm on top of the front output that links to the shaft into the output and is what puts the gubbins into diff lock engagement position. When mine would not go into lock I found the D in the arm was worn and did not move shaft enough.

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Thank you for pointing out the repaired part. I have always used the American two-part Liuqud Metal with great success elsewhere. Do you, or anyone else reading this thread, have any precise directions where to apply lubricant or should I simply spray into any suitable-looking nut/bolt/cavity! Are there other identifiable possibly worn parts which might need replacing, if obtainable, without disassembling the transfer box?

Clutch will likely be LR clutch with Isuzu pressure plate, but its really one of those situations where strip first then order parts is best. Stay away from cheap release bearings as they don't last and either get a reinforced release fork or weld a plate on a standard one to sterngthen where it sits on the pivot ball

The main part of your transfer box works or you would not drive at all.
Do not think any chemical metal will fix the problem long term.
Your problem is with the linkage or the diff lock itself which is in the front output housing.
A simple test is to undo the nut holding the cam to the shaft that goes down into the housing, lift off the cam and rotate the shaft with a spanner. If lock works then problem is with linkage.

Kev12 said:

Clutch will likely be LR clutch with Isuzu pressure plate, but its really one of those situations where strip first then order parts is best. Stay away from cheap release bearings as they don't last and either get a reinforced release fork or weld a plate on a standard one to sterngthen where it sits on the pivot ball

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Kev12 said:

Clutch will likely be LR clutch with Isuzu pressure plate, but its really one of those situations where strip first then order parts is best. Stay away from cheap release bearings as they don't last and either get a reinforced release fork or weld a plate on a standard one to sterngthen where it sits on the pivot ball

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Thank you Kev12 - I won't buy any cheaper parts - I want the best for the job, especially as the clutch is somewhat inaccessible should anything fail.... In addition to an uprated release fork, and in addition to the clutch plate and possibly pressure plate, should I replace any other anciliary parts? I wouldn't mind making the clutch operation a bit lighter as my daughter says it is too heavy for her for longer periods of driving. I don't want to go all the way to the expense of a hydraulic clutch system but I have seen Paddock advertise a claimed 30%+ lighter clutch pedal spring which will require, in my Landy, a fairly simple new clutch pedal arm and its mounting box in the footwell. And what is a 'heavy duty clutch'? Is that really only worth it for serious off-roading, and does it make the clutch operation heavier anyway? Should I use Land Rover OEM clutch stuff or can anyone here recommend any particular quality brand?
Lots of questions, I'm afraid, but the advice on LandyZone is seriously good.

tottot said:

The main part of your transfer box works or you would not drive at all. Do not think any chemical metal will fix the problem long term.
Your problem is with the linkage or the diff lock itself which is in the front output housing.
A simple test is to undo the nut holding the cam to the shaft that goes down into the housing, lift off the cam and rotate the shaft with a spanner. If lock works then problem is with linkage.

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Very good, precise advice - thank you - I'll be doing the job watching, making tea, rolling cigarettes and holding spanners for a brilliant local self-taught mechanic who can strip a tractor (or any 4X4 down to its last nut and bolt without reading anything as he is 100% dyslexic but a mechanical genius. So this will make good sense when I read it to him!

I dont know about the lighter spring and yes a heavy duty clutch will be heavier. I have heard that the Borg & Beck clutches are ok, but any brand name one should be OK. Probably a good time to avoid the blue box either way.
Theres not a lot more in the bellhousing thats not on your list- just the pivot ball which i believe is replaceable if you feel inclined

Oh and there is a little clip which holds the slave pushrod into its socket on the fork

thanks kev12 - that is very hepful, esp the advice to the (usually gruesomely overpriced) blue boxes, which In assume refers to Land Rover 'original parts', or nasty Chinese copies?

Also bear in mind heavy duty clutches will have a LR fitment pressure plate which may not fit your flywheel. I dont have any experience with the Isuzu engine so have no idea

Kev12 said:

Oh and there is a little clip which holds the slave pushrod into its socket on the fork

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or are the blue boxes the rather variable Britpart?

Britpart stuff is hit and miss, some stuff is fine and some isn't. Decent clutch parts arent that dear

Kev12 said:

Britpart stuff is hit and miss, some stuff is fine and some isn't. Decent clutch parts arent that dear

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Thanks Kev12 - I'll stick to the standard clutch parts then look out for a Borg Warner or equivalent and also see what';s stamped on the existing clutch components when the gearbox is out. Yes, Britpart can be dodgy - I easily broke the alloy clip trying to put up a new rear view mirror (which I never use, being a regular van driver) but is required for the MOT as my Landy 90 is a van but has a rear door with a window! £20 of rubbish...