trans oil seel

iv got a 90 and im in the mid of puting a new oil seel in the transfer box under the hand break do i push the seel all the way in or just level with the collor if any one could let me no many thanks

Land Rover Forum

had a read through, but i dont think it says didnt you note it when you took the old one out?

Grunt will prob know

G

it was not fully back and it was not flush with the lip
there is no grove to push it home to
and had a look at the blown pic and that was no help

Griffdowg said:

Land Rover Forum

had a read through, but i dont think it says didnt you note it when you took the old one out?

Grunt will prob know

G

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It dunt matter, I'd put it further in or not as far in, but at least flush, as the last one if you haven't replaced the output flange. Then the seal lip will run on a different bit of the flange. When you put the steel seal plate thingy on I'd tap the flange over a bit so its a bit tighter on the output flange and position it so that it's as close to the ally housing as you can get it with out it rubbing. This'll help to stop ****e getting behind it an shagging the seal up

killnorton said:

iv got a 90 and im in the mid of puting a new oil seel in the transfer box under the hand break do i push the seel all the way in or just level with the collor if any one could let me no many thanks

Click to expand...

just found out its 7 mm from the outer lip and there is a tool for it

so wodga do if yu aint got the tool?

dont furget to clean up the flange surface to take orf any crud or surface rust prior to refitting - else it will chew its way thro the new oil seal.

The Mad Hat Man said:

so wodga do if yu aint got the tool?

dont furget to clean up the flange surface to take orf any crud or surface rust prior to refitting - else it will chew its way thro the new oil seal.

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make something

any idea how long it takes to do the job?

and wodga make?

The Mad Hat Man said:

any idea how long it takes to do the job?

and wodga make?

Click to expand...

one hour mate

hi all think the 7 mm bit may have been a load of old bull as its leaking all ready after spending an hour making a tool to fitt it to 7 mm the back seal i did flush and it has no leaks at all

I'd put it further in or not as far in, but at least flush, as the last one if you haven't replaced the output flange. Then the seal lip will run on a different bit of the flange.

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Having said that my fost un leaked anall, got it from Beamends. So I replaced it with a seal from a local bearing and seal specialist and its bin OK since. I replaced the bearing with a sealed bearing for good measure as well.

iv got a feeling its my fitting landrover chesterfield told me 7mm from the housing but id all ready fitted the back one flush i made a tool for fitting it at the 7 mm was a pain so im going to fit the next one flush if that dont work think ill follow you and look into geting some dif ones

When you take the old/new un out have a look on the output flange to see where the last one was rubbing, it'll have left a groove, an put the new/new un any where but on the groove as long as it's not proud of the housing. I'd also coat the flange with assembly paste or grease if you ant got assembly paste.

thanks grunt will do mate will let you no how it gos