Trackrod ends.
- Thread starter Tony S
- Start date
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Soloby Rob
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Hot spanner mate, nowt else will shift the buggers.
bustersbus
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Give the bracket they fit into a couple of chaps with a claw hammer to try and shock them off. Failin' that use a ball joint separator
bustersbus
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Try giving them a good soaking in GT85 / WD40 etc overnight or get the blow torch out and give them some heat
Beast o Bodmin
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dont get em too hot.It makes them weak.
No anvil but i have a 2lb hammer
OK .... use a sledge hammer lying on the ground then. Work on top of that.
It works even better if you can have a chum hold the sledge hammer handle so that the head of it is standing on end, and you can work on its end. It's a question of optimising inertia and momentum, but who cares as long as it works?
Lay the track rod flat on the "anvil" of the sledgehammer head and bash it down onto the sledge-head all round not too hard with your two-pounder, turning it a bit every time you smack it Work along the so you have bashed all the stuck area. .
You can be quite sure this WILL loosen it and take it off.
A real anvil is good - 350 pounds of solid steel. Great for bashing things on.
You are gently "forging" the outer threaded tube down onto the threads of the trackrod so no damage is being done, but in the process you are breaking up the rust and corrosion into a fine dust and breaking the bond that sticks the caboodle in there.
Always works for me. Just take care and don't use brute force.
CharlesY
OK .... use a sledge hammer lying on the ground then. Work on top of that.
It works even better if you can have a chum hold the sledge hammer handle so that the head of it is standing on end, and you can work on its end. It's a question of optimising inertia and momentum, but who cares as long as it works?
Lay the track rod flat on the "anvil" of the sledgehammer head and bash it down onto the sledge-head all round not too hard with your two-pounder, turning it a bit every time you smack it Work along the so you have bashed all the stuck area. .
You can be quite sure this WILL loosen it and take it off.
A real anvil is good - 350 pounds of solid steel. Great for bashing things on.
You are gently "forging" the outer threaded tube down onto the threads of the trackrod so no damage is being done, but in the process you are breaking up the rust and corrosion into a fine dust and breaking the bond that sticks the caboodle in there.
Always works for me. Just take care and don't use brute force.
CharlesY
vivnap
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i have seen a freeze spray that is specifically to 'break' the rust on seized on nuts ect. its about 5 quid a can and apparently it is very good at loosening seized on stuff.
I tried the tapping thing while connected but i ended up disconecting the steering damper from the track rod then undid the other trackrod end and lifted the trackrod out (cos it was killing the old back lyinon the floor) then went through the tapping routine added some wd40 fastend the trackrod end to be removed in a vice and with a bit of working too and fro it adventually came off so Mr Charlesy your advice was brill. I didn't try the heat bit as when still on the car there was a brake pipe too close to the trackrod end. Thanks again to all....Tony
Great!
Patience and tapping saves the day again. It usually works.
Red bloody hot would have done the trick too, but most people don't have that much heat on tap (gas welder usually) and the tremendous heat affects the steel and may weaken it quite a lot. You don't want your track rod weakened. I bet you knew that anyway!
Use copper grease on all those parts on reassembly - naturally!
CharlesY
