To use lacquer or not..

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fella31

Active Member
Posts
293
Location
Buntingford, Great Britain
Hello all, I've just filled a loooooonnnnngggg key scratch on my Black disco with a touch up pen, sanded it down with 2000 grit paper and rubbed it with G3 compound. At the same time I fixed up the front bumper/A frame ( the shiny fibre glass panels) with a touch up spray can also from Landrover and used G3 compound. Question is when do I put on the laquer which came with the touch up and spay can. should I glaze the swirls over first so it gets nice and shiny then put on the lacquer and go over it with some G10. What says you?

Ta Al
 
Hi Al.....You apply the base colour, allow that to dry and then apply the lacquer.When the lacquer is dry.It is always best to allow the lacquer 72 hrs to totally harden b4 you flat back with the 2000 paper and then G3 back to a shine.

Hope this helps

Dave
 
You should make sure that there is no polish or anything else on the paintwork when applying the lacquer. Use something like prepsol to get rid of anything before applying the lacquer.
 
Hi, so let's see if I've got this right. Paint the key scratch with the touch up pen base coat until I can't see the primer anymore (sand down between coats with 2000 grit), clean area, use touch up laquer pen, wait a few days, use G3 compound on painted area, (maybe G10 as well) then a decent hand glaze and hey presto. How about the area with the spray can, surely I need to smooth down the area before I apply the lacquer?
 
How about the area with the spray can, surely I need to smooth down the area before I apply the lacquer?
If it is a metallic you will actual make it look wrong if you sand it down. The lacquer is there to give it a nice finish. If your paint job is bad for the base, then sand it down and then apply another another coat, but you should not sand the last coat of a metallic.
 
2000 grit ultrafine paper is a finishing paper only....used for flatting out imperfections when the job is complete,then you G3 the areas where you have flatted with 2000.
 
Step 1.....Clean out scratch and surrounding area with panelwipe and allow to dry
Step 2.....Fill scratch with base colour(black), may take a couple of coats,allow each coat to dry b4 you apply the second coat............Allow to dry.
Step 3.....Apply lacquer from touch up pencil in light coats.Allow to dry between coats.
Apply the lacquer to a maximum of 3 coats,final coat should stand just proud of the original paintwork....Allow to totally harder for 48-72 hrs depending on temperature.
Step 4.....Block back the scratch and a small area around it with 2000 ultrafine paper.
Step 5.....Polish back in with G3 and machine polisher.
Step 6.....Apply a coat of quality wax

Nearly forgot.....

Step 7.....Have a beer and admire your handywork.
 
The colour is Java black (LR: 005714) so not metalic. The bit with the spray can is just below the front bumper, connected to the A frame.
 

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The bumper/ A frame is off the car at the moment. I've repaired the crack (with fibreglass at the back) filled the front with a special compound for bumpers (???), filled the remaining scratches with filler and have now sprayed the bumper area twice with a cracking bumper paint. Wasn't cheap but it looks great now, will also use it on my wheel arches! The fibreglass panels are painted in Java black which I'll continue with tonight, I've put on one coat....and the blinkin' can was finished :-(. It's not very smooth so I'm guessing I should rub down between coats, again 2000 grit?
 
I've just bought a compressor but it's all packed away becuse we're in the middle of moving so I'll have to stay with the tins for now but you're right they do spit a bit. What's the best way of getting the paint work nice and smooth before I use the spray lacquer? I'll put up another pick of the bumper and panels so you can have a clearer view.
 
If the spray can is spitting, sit it in a jug of hot water for 5-10 minutes to warm the paint up inside the can. Then give the can a good shake and then try it.
 
Once I've rubbed the scratch back to it's original state should I go over the rest of the car with something lighter like G10?

I used G3 and then G10 as my car had a lot of hawthorn scratches along the sides when i got it.Now she loks amazing when clean.
 
Do you have a local bodyshop supplier?

There is only 1 shade of Java black anyway...I only pay £8.50 for 1/4 of a litre of base colour from my local paint shop supplier.
 
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Nope, unfortunately I don't but I was going to pop to Halfords this afternoon. Another question I had was what adhesive to use on the foam rubber of my A bar. I took it apart to fix the cracked plastic and paint the other bits but the foam must have been ripped out from the metal frame at some point (see pics). I've bought some new nuts and bolts (anchor nuts) which should form a tight grip in between the foam rubber and I was going to pop some fibre glass resin in there just to hold them in place but I should also use an adhesive for where the foam rubber has been ripped open. Any suggestions?

PS. I had this 5ltr can of glaze sitting around in my garage, would this be suitable for all colour cars or just the black Landy?
 

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