To re chassis or not... this is the question?

Hi all, so next big decision is whether to re chassis or not? Any opinions?

is it best to keep the “original” or Better to go galvanised?

chassis has been patched before... and pretty much needs new outriggers all round + rear cross member and probably suspension mounts etc. I have a highly proficient fabricator who can do it... or just go new chassis... and if so:

richards

or marslands?

Funonthefarm said:

Hi all, so next big decision is whether to re chassis or not? Any opinions?

is it best to keep the “original” or Better to go galvanised?

chassis has been patched before... and pretty much needs new outriggers all round + rear cross member and probably suspension mounts etc. I have a highly proficient fabricator who can do it... or just go new chassis... and if so:

richards

or marslands?

Click to expand...

How much for all the repairs?
Will cost a lot more than you first think to rechassis.
But with that amount of rot, maybe it is past saving?

If you have to ask the question the answer will always be re-chassis is better.
The question of who to go with depends on what your criteria are, if you are looking for an exact year correct copy you would need to ask them specifically. It has been nearly 10 years since I did mine but I seem to remember at the time that Marslands did not use a period correct corssmeber but did use u-channel chassis rails, and RC used 4 plate chassis rails but a correct year crossmember. This may now have changed. My chassis came from RC

Cost it all up, if you are getting a garage to do it get quotes, add 20 percent as a buffer.
If it were me, Id put a new one on there but I would be doing the work myself.

Sell it as is and get a new defender thing from eastern/central europe.
Alternatively with the work needed and the work unseen that will be needed, time for a new chassis. Last for ever that way or a couple of years the other way.

Gmacz said:

Sell it as is and get a new defender thing from eastern/central europe.
Alternatively with the work needed and the work unseen that will be needed, time for a new chassis. Last for ever that way or a couple of years the other way.

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Thanks everyone. So I’m pretty fortunate to have a fabricator and mechanic on site and reasonably handy myself so labour should be pretty low... parts I think could be less than £700... but as Gmacz said... is it just a patch...

Just wondered if it would retain a better value with a original vs replaced...

On the Richards vs marshland: from my understanding Richards is 100% in house build where I believe marshland “did” use original Land Rover rails and components... anyone got more on this?

but quite a big difference in cost.

Opinions?

My galvanised chassis is a designa chassis.
http://www.designa-chassis.co.uk/company.html

Funonthefarm said:

On the Richards vs marshland: from my understanding Richards is 100% in house build where I believe marshland “did” use original Land Rover rails and components... anyone got more on this?

but quite a big difference in cost.

Opinions?

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Call them up and ask them , Im sure they wont bite.

Funonthefarm said:

Thanks everyone. So I’m pretty fortunate to have a fabricator and mechanic on site and reasonably handy myself so labour should be pretty low... parts I think could be less than £700... but as Gmacz said... is it just a patch...

Just wondered if it would retain a better value with a original vs replaced...

Click to expand...

TBH if i was looking for a defender i'd much rather see a new chassis.

Not a terminal one with scabs all over it.

Depends if the

Funonthefarm said:

Thanks everyone. So I’m pretty fortunate to have a fabricator and mechanic on site and reasonably handy myself so labour should be pretty low... parts I think could be less than £700... but as Gmacz said... is it just a patch...

Just wondered if it would retain a better value with a original vs replaced...

Click to expand...

It all depends if the car is summat special, ie early or last of the breed.
On series 2 it was galv chassis all the time which I thought was mad, now they seem to be swinging towards keeping the original one, partially I think for future value as original chassis with original stamped number is always going to be worth more to some collector than a shiny chassis, and of course provenance which again adds to the value.

It can be done, my 59 has the original chassis (rear is as rough as can be!) as do many Series 1 models.

lynall said:

Depends if the


It all depends if the car is summat special, ie early or last of the breed.
On series 2 it was galv chassis all the time which I thought was mad, now they seem to be swinging towards keeping the original one, partially I think for future value as original chassis with original stamped number is always going to be worth more to some collector than a shiny chassis, and of course provenance which again adds to the value.

It can be done, my 59 has the original chassis (rear is as rough as can be!) as do many Series 1 models.

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I would agree with this, and it depends on what people want the vehicle for. Personally, regardless of model of land rover I would want to drive it, do road runs, green lanes etc, so I would be more bothered about if the chassis functional than was original. However if you have bought it to keep in a climate controlled shed and trailer to other climate controlled locations to be a museum piece then you may be more interested in the original chassis. However we are talking about a defender here not an original 80" series 1. Therfore I personally would say the opposite is true, a new galvanised chassis will add more value to a defender than an original repaired chassis, regardless of how good the repair is.

dag019 said:

I would agree with this, and it depends on what people want the vehicle for. Personally, regardless of model of land rover I would want to drive it, do road runs, green lanes etc, so I would be more bothered about if the chassis was original. However if you have bought it to keep in a climate controlled shed and trailer to other climate controlled locations to be a museum piece then you may be more interested in the original chassis. However we are talking about a defender here not an original 80" series 1. Therfore I personally would say the opposite is true, a new galvanised chassis will add more value to a defender than an original repaired chassis, regardless of how good the repair is.

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Im pretty much on the re chassis, just wanted to canvas opinion. I’m doing a full strip down, My biggest worry is patching up just means I have to do it again... just in a few years time!!!

any one have experience of the 2 chassis manufactures above?

Gmacz said:

My galvanised chassis is a designa chassis.
http://www.designa-chassis.co.uk/company.html

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What’s the option on this? Also what price was it... as website doesn’t have them online. I hear there is a Irish coming producing them also, but mixed reviews.

Funonthefarm said:

What’s the option on this? Also what price was it... as website doesn’t have them online. I hear there is a Irish coming producing them also, but mixed reviews.

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From my understanding the reviews are far from mixed and are just downright poor with the only positive being the price but everything else badly being mis-aligned and unusable. I however have no personal experience but I am very happy with my RC chassis though.

dag019 said:

From my understanding the reviews are far from mixed and are just downright poor with the only positive being the price but everything else badly being mis-aligned and unusable. I however have no personal experience but I am very happy with my RC chassis though.

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Hence my dilemma between R & M versions... Richards winning on price...?

Has anyone got experiences of the marsland chassis? Or even both?

Having done several chassis swaps and used both manufacturers my recommendation would be Marsland. Original specification GKN-made chassis, modified to suit your engine mounts etc. and then galvanised.

Nothing wrong with Richards per se, although mine had some mounts out by 1/2” or so, but I prefer the GKN C-channel design to Richards four plates welded together. They each have advantages and disadvantages.

Retroanaconda said:

Having done several chassis swaps and used both manufacturers my recommendation would be Marsland. Original specification GKN-made chassis, modified to suit your engine mounts etc. and then galvanised.

Nothing wrong with Richards per se, although mine had some mounts out by 1/2” or so, but I prefer the GKN C-channel design to Richards four plates welded together. They each have advantages and disadvantages.

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Great thanks, by the c channel you mean in the chassis rails in 2 pieces then welded together...

Does the marsland justify the extra in price?

what would be the advantage and disadvantages of each?

Yes, two C-channel sections overlapped and welded.

In my opinion it’s worth the premium. It’s as close as you’ll get to a new Genuine chassis without buying one, but with the benefit of galvanising.

The Marsland is more original in construction, has the later strengthening additions around outriggers, can allow you to use the better Td5 type fuel tanks, and is lighter in construction. As a downside it doesn’t have the pre-Td5 crossmember as an option if that bothers you. The Richards is a simpler construction and cheaper, and arguably more modifiable for things like roll cage mounts. However it’s a heavier construction.