Tips for removing rusty floor screws

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Discodevon

Discodevon

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,446
Gents and ladies do you have any tips to remove my rusty passenger footwell screws, the screw bit is non existent and I cannot get a grip with locking pliers?

Regards
 
A good smack with a cold chisel to rotate them slightly different hen mole grips got mine out, otherwise drill or grinder as said.
You can get stainless steel ones so it doesn't happen again.
 
Discodevon said:
Gents and ladies do you have any tips to remove my rusty passenger footwell screws, the screw bit is non existent and I cannot get a grip with locking pliers?

Regards
Click to expand...
I drilled mine out it was easy enough. You'll find the ones at the front and side near the gearbox tunnel are into square orange plastic captive nuts (part number CZA4705L) which I replaced for a few quid for a pack or two (always useful) and the ones nearest the door are just nuts and bolts, well worth doing and replacing
 
Take it for an MOT with a large hole where the bulkhead joins the floor and they will take them out, repair the floor and put new floor bolts in for you - for a very good price :p:)
 
Thank you chaps, I got the stainless floor screw kit from Yrm and managed to get some of the old out with my impact gun but the others are in a right state, was hoping not to take the floor up for now but sometimes a simple ish job isn’t quite as simple as one expected lol!
 
Yes mate they all came in the kit, ( the plastic captive nuts) all the fasteners are a4 stainless too

How do you grind off the screws without hitting the floor pan with the grinder?
 
Angle grind the head off, get the shank with mole grips. It it resists your most half assed efforts at removal; cut and fit new fixings. Saves time.
 
Discodevon said:
Yes mate they all came in the kit, ( the plastic captive nuts) all the fasteners are a4 stainless too

How do you grind off the screws without hitting the floor pan with the grinder?
Click to expand...

With great care. I used larger 1mm 125mm cuttin discs which give you just enough angle to the head of without touching the floor.

Can always try cutting slots in the head, then an impact driver/buzz gun to try and remove it from there.
 
Angle grinders and cutting discs always make me nervous. I tend to cause more damage than intended. Issued one recently to remove rusted bolts holding my mower engine in. By the time I'd removed them, the mower was scrap, it's too easy to slip. I'd use a centre punch and drill. Stainless steel fasteners used to be good in the old days but not now. If they stick to a magnet, they will rust.

Col
 
Thank you gents unfortunately im a tad heavy handed so had better not attempt grinding them, that’s a good idea about cutting the slot though!

Very true about the the stainless being magnetic some old boy mentioned that a couple of months ago, every day Is a learning day
 
Colthebrummie said:
Angle grinders and cutting discs always make me nervous. I tend to cause more damage than intended. Issued one recently to remove rusted bolts holding my mower engine in. By the time I'd removed them, the mower was scrap, it's too easy to slip. I'd use a centre punch and drill. Stainless steel fasteners used to be good in the old days but not now. If they stick to a magnet, they will rust.

Col
Click to expand...
Your not one for pouring drinks then :eek:. Just drinking them ;):p
 
Got a couple more screws out last night, this time with mole grips and a good dose of duck oil
 
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