Timing belt - plan of action!

After managing to snap one of my rockers I've decided to replace the timing belt, afterall I know nowt of my discos dark and sordid past!

Have read a couple of write-ups on tinterweb and looked through RAVE (massive thanks to JPS for posting me a cd!! ) I would like to plan what I need to do before starting out and realising I need tools/further parts etc.

There are timing belt kits available for the £60 mark which include the belt, idler pulley, tensioner and gaskets.

Here's me plan:

Remove drive and aircon belts, crank pully and front cover from timing belt enclosure.

Turn engine over on crank until flywheel notch lines up with hole in casing. Insert pin (LRT 12 044)

Check arrows line up on camshaft gear and crankshaft. Insert pin (LRT 12 045) into injection pump gear

Place pin (LRT 12 044) into hole at rear of engine sump behind cover plate to ensure cylinder1 is tdc.

Slacken tensior, remove idler pulley and belt

Replace idler pulley, tensioner (using threadlock) and belt (Dayco) and all gaskets/seals

Slacken injection pump pulley bolts before fitting new belt, ensure all timing marks are still alligned before removing pins and turning over by hand.

Refit everything and pray!



Is it worth replacing anything else whilst I'm at it?

Do I really need LR pins (2 x LRT 12 044 and LRT 12 045) or would I get away using drill bits?

Do I need a tool to remove the bolt from crank pully (it's an auto) or would I get away with bolting a rod to it to prevent it spinning?

Also do I need a 'puller' to remove the pully or could I prise it off?


Any further help, words of wisdom (as always) greatly appreciated..

I'm not an expert, and i dont always use the "proper" methods but this is my thinking on the situation, and i have done a FEW of these belts, not loads. Really you could do with radiator out of the way so you can look at the lot head on, but as you have aircon you cant see through the aircon unit anyway but taking rad out will still give a little more room. I dont use the timing pins. I turn the lot untill the woodruff key thing on crank is at 12 o clock, there is an arrow on the casing behind that it lines up with.. Then put a 9.5 (i think) drill bit in the pump.. Look and make sure that the line on cam shaft lines up with the marker on casing i think about 7 oclock or 8.. It should all line up if not its obviously not timed up right. Take belt off etc and replace, i used to slacken the pump bolts but my dad (time served mechanic) says not to. If the engine ran ok before, and the timing was right then try not to move that pulley at all. The belt is pretty hard to get on, but you can get it on without slackening the pump pulley. As my dad says, a tooth out is a lot and its not hard to spot. When its on turn it all over by hand a few times and check all the marks are right. If you have any of them a tooth out it will be very obvious, and the drill bit should go in.. If the belt did slip causing your damage it wont be the pump timing (im pretty sure of that) it will be one of the other two thats not in right place.. Will be interesting to hear if it is right or not. If you leave your aircon system in place you cant see head on, so i use a mirror and a lot of patience to see the marks. You can get the crank bolt out with a strong bar aginst the chassis and flicking the starter to loosen, but take fuel pump solenoid wire off!!!!! rest the bar on top of the passenger side chassis. Getting it on tight enough is the challenge with an auto, and i think you might need a tool (you can make one) to hold the pulley. To get crank pulley off (the outside one) get a pry bar from the top and get someone to gently tap the bottom of the pulley (with a bit of wood or something so you dont damage it), that should get it off. Make sure you dont loose the little woodruff key thing. You might want to replace the front oil seal whilst your there its up to you i dont unless it needs it. If you use the proper way you will get it spot on, if you do it the way i do you might do. It all depends if you want to buy the proper pins etc. Good luck - it is doable!!

ps. when the belt is on you can start it even with no water in but only for a few seconds, just to make sure the timing is correct BUT make sure you dont spray oil everywhere out of the oil cooler pipes, and dont forget to re-attatch the solenoid wiring!!! One results in a LOT of mess and the other a flat battery (ive learned both lessons the hard way)

Thanks for the advice BH, was thinking of leaving rad and intercooler in place not sure whether I would gain much for the hassle as the aircon pump will be in the way anyways..
Have seen you can buy 'timing kits' from franklin which include the 3 pins and a tool to remove the crank pully but if I can get away with saving my pennies and using drill bits then that'll be the way for me to go