Thermostat housing to block leak

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Did you wait long enough for the sealer to set or do you just fill with water & fire it up??
I use RTV sealant works every time.
 
I had that recently on my 200tdi I had just used blue hylomar alone which leaked , I then ordered 2 genuine Land Rover gaskets been fine, clean up,all,faces used torque wrench to nip,up,small bolts

ETC8007
THEMOSTAT HOUSING GASKET GENUINE

ERR3682
THEMOSTAT HOUSING GASKET GENUINE
 
Is there 2 gaskets for it I only used one? I was doing the water pump at the same time so done the thermostat then the water pump was probably left for about 45 mins or more before there water was in
 
steve2286w said:
I had that recently on my 200tdi I had just used blue hylomar alone which leaked , I then ordered 2 genuine Land Rover gaskets been fine, clean up,all,faces used torque wrench to nip,up,small bolts

ETC8007
THEMOSTAT HOUSING GASKET GENUINE

ERR3682
THEMOSTAT HOUSING GASKET GENUINE
Click to expand...

1 gasket 52p for the gasket & five quid postage plus vat £1.10 total = £6.62 Fk right off
does no one make there own gaskets anymore ?? :rolleyes:
 
v8250 said:
as above, use a smear of RTV on both mating surfaces. re gaskets, use Klingersil c4400 gasket material. it's readily available online to buy/ebay and make up your own gasket. klingersil is impervious to coolants, oils, fuels and is a proper industrial gasket material. have been using for decades...it never fails

https://www.klinger.co.uk/products/jointing-materials/klingersil-compressed-fibre-sheeting

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KLINGER-...290710?hash=item363057be56:g:4YAAAOxygKZSSpSK
Click to expand...

One of the gaskets, I think upper, is a rubber backed fibre gasket, I think this is the high pressure side.
 
kevstar said:
1 gasket 52p for the gasket & five quid postage plus vat £1.10 total = £6.62 Fk right off
does no one make there own gaskets anymore ?? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

If you go to Land Rover they will probably want to sell you ten at a time, their oil filter housing gaskets are only available in tens.
 
nobber said:
If you go to Land Rover they will probably want to sell you ten at a time, their oil filter housing gaskets are only available in tens.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't go to LR for anything fooking robbing gits, im from a marine background its either fix it or we are fkd attitude, at sea you have one option fix it cause there's no way we are getting towed in its only a gasket, rubber backed or not he's used a
sealant on it & its not worked ?? Who or what's failed.
 
kevstar said:
I wouldn't go to LR for anything fooking robbing gits, im from a marine background its either fix it or we are fkd attitude, at sea you have one option fix it cause there's no way we are getting towed in its only a gasket, rubber backed or not he's used a
sealant on it & its not worked ?? Who or what's failed.
Click to expand...

My guess is the sealant has, probably the mating faces were badly pitted or not clean when reassembled. Any water or oil , grease or any contaminant will cause the sealant to fail. On the coolant system you have antifreeze, I dont know if you have ever spilled some on the workshop floor but if you have you will know it doesnt evaporate too quickly, it stays wet for ages. A good clean with brake cleaner or sand paper (usually both) will get the mating faces clean and dry.

You might be surprised at LR prices, some things are pretty reasonable and a lot of smaller bits cost the same as some shops punt it out for.
 
I had the same issue many years ago, just couldn't stop the leak .
Turned out not to be the block/gasket join but corrosion on the bypass stub causing a hose leak. Difficult to see but it was running off the gasket joint hence my mis diagnosis:oops:
 
nobber said:
My guess is the sealant has, probably the mating faces were badly pitted or not clean when reassembled. Any water or oil , grease or any contaminant will cause the sealant to fail. On the coolant system you have antifreeze, I dont know if you have ever spilled some on the workshop floor but if you have you will know it doesnt evaporate too quickly, it stays wet for ages. A good clean with brake cleaner or sand paper (usually both) will get the mating faces clean and dry.

You might be surprised at LR prices, some things are pretty reasonable and a lot of smaller bits cost the same as some shops punt it out for.
Click to expand...

I agree about it being contaminated easily done if your thinking about other things (mainly pussy) lol
The only time we would use dealer parts is when aftermarket parts aren't available plus you cant really
make a profit on stealer prices, usually id tell the customer to buy the part & we'd just take a labour
charge for fitting it. :)
 
v8250 said:
as above, use a smear of RTV on both mating surfaces. re gaskets, use Klingersil c4400 gasket material. it's readily available online to buy/ebay and make up your own gasket. klingersil is impervious to coolants, oils, fuels and is a proper industrial gasket material. have been using for decades...it never fails

https://www.klinger.co.uk/products/jointing-materials/klingersil-compressed-fibre-sheeting

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KLINGER-...290710?hash=item363057be56:g:4YAAAOxygKZSSpSK
Click to expand...
What tools do you use for getting nice circles, I have a few hole punches , scissors and Stanley knife


nobber said:
I dont know if you have ever spilled some on the workshop floor but if you have you will know it doesnt evaporate too quickly, it stays wet for ages. A good clean with brake cleaner or sand paper (usually both) will get the mating faces clean and dry.

You might be surprised at LR prices, some things are pretty reasonable and a lot of smaller bits cost the same as some shops punt it out for.
Click to expand...

I think I was a bit impatient waiting for the blue hylomar to go tacky so could have been my fault
 
steve2286w said:
What tools do you use for getting nice circles, I have a few hole punches , scissors and Stanley knife
Click to expand...

Sharp kitchen scissors, hole punches and sometimes a sharp knife like an Opinel. The leading blade edge is great for cutting tight curves. The trick is to work on a large solid cutting/chopping board, ideally at a table, and to sometimes clamp down the gasket material. It can be a little fiddly to start but you'll find the 'knack' and I find it therapeutic knowing I've cut a perfect gasket...but that's just my anal techie charactero_O
 
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