The f'kin thing won't budge!

I have spent the last few hours trying to remove the bolts that hold the EGR onto the manifold - used plenty (and I mean plenty!) of WD40 and seem to have removed most of the skin off my knuckles!!
Have tried it with the engine cold, warm, hot . . . . .

Has anyone else had the same problems and if so, how the hell did you get yours loose?

Is just disconnecting the wiring an option?

A mechanic i now uses parrafin on stuck nuts etc.dont no if that would be of use.

ask the local garage to put some heat on them wif the oxy/acet.
well worth a tenner.

hi did mine by taking it for a run then dowse it with proper penertrating fluid not wd 40 you have 2 different metals/alloys so one will expand/contract at different rates, as this happens when you spray the studs 1 will contract faster/slower than the other and draw the fluid in to the threads,this may help you i used good old plusgas,good luck phil.

I know it sounds daft , but try Cokecola on them . its helped me a few times on stuck fast nuts and bolts . Just soak and let the coke soak in for twenty minutes or so .

go on give it a try lol .

regards L

Take a small ball-peen hammer, and gently tap it about 50times each bolt. Do this gently, you dont want to crack anything.

This should ease it off and it will come out no problem. Also try tightening it first, its easier to tighten something like that. Then once its moving it will undo.

Leonberger said:

I know it sounds daft , but try Cokecola on them . its helped me a few times on stuck fast nuts and bolts . Just soak and let the coke soak in for twenty minutes or so .

go on give it a try lol .

regards L

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip - will have to have a look to see if we have some rola cola!!!!

Leonberger said:

I know it sounds daft , but try Cokecola on them . its helped me a few times on stuck fast nuts and bolts . Just soak and let the coke soak in for twenty minutes or so .

go on give it a try lol .

regards L

Click to expand...

Coka Cola is handy stuff for woodworm too. I know someone who brushed it on infected timber and it stopped the attack. I asked him how it worked and he said "Simple, it rots their teeth"............

Go for the 4-ounce pin hammer trick that Discomania said.

This is a VERY SCIENTIFIC way to undo rusty tight bolts.

Tap gently, but tap frequently - no brute force, just gentle taps, on and on. Fifty taps might not be nearly enough - take time!

Every tap loosens a little of the rust near the head of the bolt, and as you keep going, the rust further in loosens deeper and deeper, until .....

You may actually hear the difference in the sounds of the taps when it comes loose.

PATIENCE is the name of this game!

Use copper-grease when you put them back!

CharlesY

If you cant be bothered to keep tapping it. Sometimes an electric drill with hammer action works, not to undo the bolt, but just to impart the hammer action onto the head, and it is easier than using a hammer.

Well, after spending yesterday evening patiently tapping with me hammer, spraying wd40 - it's off!! Hurrragh!

Thanks for the tip guys

Wrighters said:

Well, after spending yesterday evening patiently tapping with me hammer, spraying wd40 - it's off!! Hurrragh!

Thanks for the tip guys

Click to expand...

Not everyone has the patience for the "tap-tap-tap" method, but it almost always works. It is good on seized brake bleed nipples too, but as they are soft steel they will pein down and end up like squashed little mushrooms! However, they will probably come out, so be sure to have new ones handy.

Blank the thing off and take her a out for "pedal to the metal" run.

Tell us all what you think!

CharlesY

Will do - off down to Poole for a couple of days - motorway and dual carriageway all the way!
Will wear me best lead boots!

Wrighters said:

Will do - off down to Poole for a couple of days - motorway and dual carriageway all the way!
Will wear me best lead boots!

Click to expand...

Hey, ! Take care now .... and mind how you go!

As soon as you get back tell us what you think about powering up hills, overtaking, cruising with less boot, and fuel guzzlement.

Remember to take your Allen-Keys and check tighten the screws!

CharlesY

Are you guys talking about the bolts next to the vacuum thingy or the allen headed bolts? I am just about to undertake the same operation, so the advice here is brilliant. Cheers. I look forward to reading the trip report

The top allen headed bolt was a bugger to get off - The head started to slip - I found it easier to undo the two bolts on the side first and remove the breather pipe. I then managed to undo the lower allen headed bolt - after giving the top one plenty of gentle tapping and wd40 (i found a good bon jovi track helped with a good rhythm!!) i found that by 'wiggling' the bronze coloured vacuum thing (excuse the technical language here!) it loosened the top bolt enough to get it undone - had to use new bolts when putting the blanking plate on though.
Ohh and by the way, don't put your heaters/blowers on after - the smell of hot wd40 in the cabin isnt pleasant!
Good Luck

When you blank off a EGR system, the best place to blank is right at the exhaust manifold.

This is better because it means you have not created a closed end "flutter-pipe" attached to the exhaust manifold, which MIGHT affect the way the turbo picks up speed, were it to create oscillating waves up and down the pipe.

The turbine (hot driving end) works best when its blades are hit by the very fast pulses coming from the exhaust ports. A stream of sharp pulses is better than a steady flow of smoothed-out exhaust, and, any smoothing-out process involves expansion of the gases, which means a temperature and pressure drop, and less OOOOMPH to drive the turbo.

Fit the EGR blanking plate to the manifold end of the transfer pipe, using TWO little Allen socket screws. The TD5 plate fits a treat, and doesn't even need a gasket.

CharlesY