P38A Temp sensor
- Thread starter domino
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 33,857
- Location
- North Shropshire
If the ecu thinks the engine is cold, it will increase the fuel and run rich. The colour of the plugs should tell you
Is that not the Gems? Was sure the Thor just had 1 with 2 connectors.
- Posts
- 33,857
- Location
- North Shropshire
Yes, Thor only has one
You are correct ...should not answer on phone whilst watching tv....lol
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,093
- Location
- heathrow
Sanity check please:
If the temp gauge doesn't rise to the normal position, possible issues could be:
1) temp sensor/sender is guff
2) thermostat isn't closing
3) engine is off.
4) air lock
Anything I'm missing?
corrected that for you
If the temp gauge doesn't rise to the normal position, possible issues could be:
1) temp sensor/sender is guff
2) thermostat isn't closing
3) engine is off.
4) air lock
Anything I'm missing?
corrected that for you
- Posts
- 12,655
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
My lads 38 never got upto temp, I checked the thermostat and it was constantly open... Now, it sits as it should. 
- Posts
- 33,857
- Location
- North Shropshire
I use regular green stuff in mine. It's a 1960s engine so the fancy stuff is wasted on it
. Also encourages me to change it more often
. Also encourages me to change it more often
Was sure I'd read somewhere that you need the pink OAT stuff; the green and blue isn't good for it?
- Posts
- 33,857
- Location
- North Shropshire
OAT isn't good for old engines with older style gaskets and lead solder in radiator cores etc, but i don't think the v8 has anything like that, so the pink stuff can be used.
Equally, the green stuff is quite basic, doesn't last as long, but doesn't have anything in it that will attack any of the components, just ethylene glycol and silicates.
The main thing is not to mix them, they will react with each other and cause sediment and generally gum things up
Equally, the green stuff is quite basic, doesn't last as long, but doesn't have anything in it that will attack any of the components, just ethylene glycol and silicates.
The main thing is not to mix them, they will react with each other and cause sediment and generally gum things up
- Posts
- 33,857
- Location
- North Shropshire
OAT wasn't around in the 60s though
- Posts
- 12,655
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
I use Holts heavy duty green in ma coal smoker.
So, been stupidly busy but decided this morning was the time to get this stat replaced.
...only to discover I don't have a 12mm allen key to remove the rad plug.
So, pending the purchase/delivery of one, I want to check everything else before hand. I've searched the forum but there are so many different posts about it it's difficult to see correct answers and I want to sanity check things:
1) I'm not losing coolant; level is fine and doesn't drop.
1a) No issue with matrix o-rings.
2) Top hose gets 'warm' but not hot after running (can be idle for a while or a drive; yesterday was a 10 mile drive on A1 at about 50mph)
3) The temp gauge barely gets in to the blue - will sometimes get half way in to the blue but wont go further - type of driving doesn't affect it (very slow cruising, up hill, down hill, foot down, etc)
4) I get slightly warm air through the vents even when set on BURNME.
This issue only started last year when I replaced the o-rings, something I've done before without issue. I haven't really driven the car for over a year though have recently had it stripped inside to fix various bits n bobs.
I have the replacement stat (2 actually; britpart is **** and doesn't seal, Bearmach seals well and opens well) to go in pending tool acquisition.
- how do you check the stat in place to make sure it's operating correctly? I'd like to check the current one and the new one once installed.
- There's no gargling anywhere and I've bled the system previously (due to leaks) to know that I don't have an air-lock (using the correct method in RAVE).
- Best way to check/test the temp sensor; could this be the cultprit?
Frustrated at lack of toolage and wasted morning time!
...only to discover I don't have a 12mm allen key to remove the rad plug.
So, pending the purchase/delivery of one, I want to check everything else before hand. I've searched the forum but there are so many different posts about it it's difficult to see correct answers and I want to sanity check things:
1) I'm not losing coolant; level is fine and doesn't drop.
1a) No issue with matrix o-rings.
2) Top hose gets 'warm' but not hot after running (can be idle for a while or a drive; yesterday was a 10 mile drive on A1 at about 50mph)
3) The temp gauge barely gets in to the blue - will sometimes get half way in to the blue but wont go further - type of driving doesn't affect it (very slow cruising, up hill, down hill, foot down, etc)
4) I get slightly warm air through the vents even when set on BURNME.
This issue only started last year when I replaced the o-rings, something I've done before without issue. I haven't really driven the car for over a year though have recently had it stripped inside to fix various bits n bobs.
I have the replacement stat (2 actually; britpart is **** and doesn't seal, Bearmach seals well and opens well) to go in pending tool acquisition.
- how do you check the stat in place to make sure it's operating correctly? I'd like to check the current one and the new one once installed.
- There's no gargling anywhere and I've bled the system previously (due to leaks) to know that I don't have an air-lock (using the correct method in RAVE).
- Best way to check/test the temp sensor; could this be the cultprit?
Frustrated at lack of toolage and wasted morning time!
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,093
- Location
- heathrow
You can use a bit of threaded bar with nuts on as an allen key .
aye - cept, I don't have any threaded bar or long enough bolts. Then looked for bolts with a 12mm head.. nada
