Temp sender for 200tdi

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56
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Wales
evening

I have bought a 110 1987 defender which has previously had a 200tdi conversion on it. The temperature gauge goes up to max after about 5/10 mins of driving. The engine isn’t hot and I was told when I bought it that a discovery sender is fitted and it’s the wrong one so I need to get a 200tdi defender one.

I have just bought a 200tdi defender one with part number PRC 8593 but the thread into my thermostat housing is a lot finer so it doesn’t fit.

The engine number starts 14L so not sure what engine is in now if the 200tdi defender sensor is wrong?

Any advice?

Thanks
 

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evening

I have bought a 110 1987 defender which has previously had a 200tdi conversion on it. The temperature gauge goes up to max after about 5/10 mins of driving. The engine isn’t hot and I was told when I bought it that a discovery sender is fitted and it’s the wrong one so I need to get a 200tdi defender one.

I have just bought a 200tdi defender one with part number PRC 8593 but the thread into my thermostat housing is a lot finer so it doesn’t fit.

The engine number starts 14L so not sure what engine is in now if the 200tdi defender sensor is wrong?

Any advice?

Thanks

14L appears to be an engine out of a Range Rover Classic, try a sensor for that.

As an aside, that is a 1987 One Ten.
 
14L appears to be an engine out of a Range Rover Classic, try a sensor for that.

As an aside, that is a 1987 One Ten.

Strange. I was told the engine is out of a defender? Take it I was miss informed and it’s out of an old discovery? I take it then the gauge I have is for the defender sensor and the sensor I in is for the discovery.
 
Replace what with a mechanical one?

Replace the standard gauge with a mechanical capillary durite gauge - about £30 and much more reliable and accurate.

Just measure the thread of the old sensor so you know your thread pitch when you order the replacment.

If you have a disco or rr engine in your defender there is no point buying defender engine parts and expecting them to fit - you need to buy engine parts as per the donor vehicle not the vehicle the engine has been fitted in.

Just because it’s in a defender doesn’t magically make it a defender engine.

Is the turbo up high or down low?
 
Replace the standard gauge with a mechanical capillary durite gauge - about £30 and much more reliable and accurate.

Just measure the thread of the old sensor so you know your thread pitch when you order the replacment.

If you have a disco or rr engine in your defender there is no point buying defender engine parts and expecting them to fit - you need to buy engine parts as per the donor vehicle not the vehicle the engine has been fitted in.

Just because it’s in a defender doesn’t magically make it a defender engine.

Is the turbo up high or down low?

Like I said, I thought the engine was from a defender as that’s how it was advertised. The turbo is up high, see photo attached.

Where would I find a capillary type that would fit the thermostat hole threads?

I have access to a lathe so could I not just make a reducing bush to thread into the housing and fit the PRC 8593 into it to work with my defender gauge?
 

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Like I said, I thought the engine was from a defender as that’s how it was advertised. The turbo is up high, see photo attached.

Where would I find a capillary type that would fit the thermostat hole threads?

I have access to a lathe so could I not just make a reducing bush to thread into the housing and fit the PRC 8593 into it to work with my defender gauge?

People are always swapping the engines around, many of them have no idea where the engine came from.

I would do like he suggested^^^^^^^^^, and ring Steve Parker. or John Craddock, they know the game inside out. Give them your engine number and ask what they suggest.
 
Like I said, I thought the engine was from a defender as that’s how it was advertised. The turbo is up high, see photo attached.

Where would I find a capillary type that would fit the thermostat hole threads?

I have access to a lathe so could I not just make a reducing bush to thread into the housing and fit the PRC 8593 into it to work with my defender gauge?

If you have a lathe, and the knowledge to use it, why ask the question in the first place?

Personally, if this was my engine, I would put the original temp sender in my lathe, drill the sender out to fit the new sender. Tap it, seal it, and use the old one as a bush for the new one.
 
If you have a lathe, and the knowledge to use it, why ask the question in the first place?

Personally, if this was my engine, I would put the original temp sender in my lathe, drill the sender out to fit the new sender. Tap it, seal it, and use the old one as a bush for the new one.

He hasn't got the right sender, he needs the right one, and probably a gauge to match. Not certain about the gauge, but often the gauge and the sender only work with the correct pairing.

Also, tapping a piece of 40 year old alloy may not prove straightforward.
 
I think the senders and guages are matched - so a disco sender won’t work with a defender gauge etc

High turbo is defender spec, although if you look up my engine number it comes back as a disco but that’s only applicable to the block in my case - the rest is defender spec.

Could be that your block is from a RR or disco and all the ancillaries are defender - what’s your front timing case look like?

The durite gauges come with a variety of adapter IIRC from when I fitted mine
 
I think the senders a guages are matched - so a disco sender won’t work with a defender gauge etc

High turbo is defender spec, although if you look up my engine number it comes back as a disco but that’s only applicable to the block in my case - the rest is defender spec.

Could be that your block is from a real or disco and all the ancillaries are defender - what’s your front timing case look like?

The durite gauges come with a variety of adapter IIRC from when I fitted mine

According to the list of engine number codes on the Glencoyne site, that engine comes from a Range Rover Classic, not a Discovery.
 
Yep indeed, my 200tdi was rebuilt using a disco bare block for instance

After that length of time, they tend to be like Trigger's broom. And that is why I always try and use original parts where they are available, save on further complication by introducing aftermarket bits as well.
 
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