TDv6 - blown turbo, knackered box, dead plugs???

Hi chaps,

I have a 54 plate disco 3 tdv6 with 95k on the clock.

It's developed a problem that it's incredibly sluggish to pull away. Once it gets going it's ok ish (after big clouds of smoke) but still lacks a bit of power.

I towed my boat 300miles a couple of weeks back and after a huge hill on the m5 it threw up a 'major gearbox fault' type message which cleared after a re-start. The power problem started about a week later.

Is this anything obvious? (its only had basic servicing for the past 50k - needs new glow plugs, blown turbo......)

if it's major, any idea of likely cost?

cheers

wilf1234 said:

Hi chaps,

I have a 54 plate disco 3 tdv6 with 95k on the clock.

It's developed a problem that it's incredibly sluggish to pull away. Once it gets going it's ok ish (after big clouds of smoke) but still lacks a bit of power.

I towed my boat 300miles a couple of weeks back and after a huge hill on the m5 it threw up a 'major gearbox fault' type message which cleared after a re-start. The power problem started about a week later.

Is this anything obvious? (its only had basic servicing for the past 50k - needs new glow plugs, blown turbo......)

if it's major, any idea of likely cost?

cheers

Click to expand...

Sounds like your vehicle needs TLC ...

Get it serviced, re-mapped and chuck some 2-stroke oil, ( at least 500ml), in the tank for at least 3 tank fulls ...

Aside from giving much needed extra lubrication to the CRD injection components (it will save your injectors and the HPFP), the new Jaso-FC grade 2sO's contain some VERY effective additives, that remove carbon build-up from the inside of the engine.

In your case it will most probably have been the vane mechanism of the VVT turbo, that was getting sticky due to excessive carbon build up around the actuator ring of the turbo...

Cheers for the advice.

Disco has been serviced and a litre of 2-stroke run through it, plus when they serviced it they ran their own 'special' cleaners through it.

Car still runs pretty much the same (i.e. won't pull away for several seconds, and won't go up hills!!)

the Garage reckons they unplugged the mass air flow meter and it ran much better but obviously the turbo wouldn't kick in - so there is a new AFM on it's way from Germany.

There 99% sure that's the problem, but I'm not convinced as surely if the vanes are sticking in the turbo, then they'll stick stick even if a new 150 quid AFM is telling it to open!!!

any thoughts?

Cheers

wilf1234 said:

Cheers for the advice.

Disco has been serviced and a litre of 2-stroke run through it, plus when they serviced it they ran their own 'special' cleaners through it.

Car still runs pretty much the same (i.e. won't pull away for several seconds, and won't go up hills!!)

the Garage reckons they unplugged the mass air flow meter and it ran much better but obviously the turbo wouldn't kick in - so there is a new AFM on it's way from Germany.

There 99% sure that's the problem, but I'm not convinced as surely if the vanes are sticking in the turbo, then they'll stick stick even if a new 150 quid AFM is telling it to open!!!

any thoughts?

Cheers

Click to expand...

Any fault codes given ? No !

I'd bet it is a EGR valves ...

blank 'em off ...

you will notice the plural ...

(one each side) ...

cheers

do you need to remove the butterfly valve as well (read that somewhere)

easy DIY job for a cretin!!??

W

wilf1234 said:

cheers

do you need to remove the butterfly valve as well (read that somewhere)

easy DIY job for a cretin!!??

W

Click to expand...

there are two methods :

One is to simply insert thin(ish) blanking plates on the outlet of the EGRs and leave the pipes etc in place.
This will still obstruct (abit) the inlet side of things

The second option is the full kit - this has thicker end caps to allow you to completely remove the EGR pipes and seal them off at both ends.

In both cases, you would need to jam open (or preferably remove) the butterfly valve....once you blank the EGRs, then the butterfly valve would effectively strangle the engine at low revs as it closes to try and force the engine to breath the gases from the open EGRs (which you've just blanked off)...

as for the cretin - knuckle scrapes aside you'll be fine ...

I thought I also ought to check the turbo hose. I've just been out under torch light and had a good look at the turbo hose - no signs of any splits but obviously I can only see the top section!

However, lots of oil/gunk around the box which presumably houses the butterfly valve!

Could quite easily be the MAF sensor

Cheers for all the help thus far guys. The car was driving like a pig this morning and I dropped it back to the Garage to pick up the Fault codes that they read on Friday.

They re-read them as of this morning and they are:

P0405 - EGR Circuit Low Sensor A
P0046 - Turbo Boost Control Solenoid - Circuit Range/Performance
P140A - EGR Circuit Low Sensor C
P140E EGR Position Sensor C Min/Max Stop Performance
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit
P0113 Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 - Circuit High Input
P120F Fuel Pressure Regulator Excessive Variation
P0578 Speed Control Multi Function Input - A circuit is stuck
P0299 Turbo/Supercharger Underboost

the guy in the garage reckoned they had cleared them all on Friday, and that the last three were new codes. As I mentioned, it was driving like a pig this morning

Bag of smarties or can of half drunk stale warm Guiness for the guy who sorts this lot out!!!!

I'm reckoning blank the EGR's and then see whats what - does that sound reasonable!?

Cheers

Quick check you can do is with ignition off, check the turbo actuator is free and not sticking at all. Might have to take a couple of heat shields off though. This is usually the fault with these engines

Cheer. Excuse the ignorance, where is the turbo actuator.... (presumably somewhere near that front airbox near where the egr hoses hit the top). Cheers

No it's actually on the turbo itself and is electronically actuated , with ignition off it should be free and not stiff or sticking.
Bit fiddly to get to buy at least it would give you some idea what your up against . This is first thing I go for on these engines.
Hope this helps you out

sorry (more ignorance ) - how you actually check it's free running if it's electronically operated - do you give it a wiggle or .......?

Pretty much yes, should be free moving and not seized or sticking.
Has a garage had a look at the fault or just read fault codes?