Disco 2 Td5 snapped exhaust stud.

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stuu

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As title says a snapped stud. (Don't know how long it's been like that)
Rear most one looking at the manifold. All the rest are ok.
But it's not blowing or leaving soot marks.
Would you just drill and retap that one before it does start blowing or am I going to HAVE to swap manifold.
 
As title says a snapped stud. (Don't know how long it's been like that)
Rear most one looking at the manifold. All the rest are ok.
But it's not blowing or leaving soot marks.
Would you just drill and retap that one before it does start blowing or am I going to HAVE to swap manifold.
I would certainly prepare to drill that one out, as soon as possible.
When the manifold is off try and put a straight edge across the ports to see if its warped, if so it will pay you to get it skimmed flat.
Often a sign that the engine map has been modified and is spitting out blazing hot exhaust gases.
 
+1 to the above. If it has snapped it is because the manifold has warped. (They are most likely all going to do it eventually, mine had not been remapped and it was very badly warped. Only one snapped is actually quite lucky, a lot of us have had more than one go, me included, I lost at least 2, cannot actually remember.
So get it off, get it skimmed, cut through the webs for good measure, drill out the outer two holes on each end by 2 mm further and the next two in (numbers 2 and 4) by 1 mm. That should prevent it happening again.
Then go to the head and if the rest of the stud is still there you may be able to, very carefully, get it out. provided there is enough of it left to get a grip on with tons of freeing-off liquid, stud extractor, etc, etc. But don't expect it to be easy.
If it has snapped off below the surface of the ehad then you'll need to drill it out and retap it as you said. You may even have to redrill it a size bigger and tap that hole, then fit a corresponding stud/cut off bolt. The you'll need to drill out the manifold hole even wider.
Don't be surprised if some of the studs try to come out with the nuts, you could snap even more off. Go very gently and use lots of WD or whatever.
There are quite a few threads on this on here and I sincerely wish you a lot of luck as it can go horribly wrong.
 
Okay so got my old manifold off my old engine that went bang. Had already been skimmed. So new gaskets and drill out that one stud assuming the rest will undo.
It is snapped in the head so I'm already prepared for a helicoil job.
 
This ones standard map. No smoke and is noticable slower then my previous engine.
Didn't want to use my mapped ecu as it black smoked alot and didn't know who it was mapped by.
 
Just thought, if you've already taken a manifold off a previous engine then most of my post was a waste of time!
You knew it already!;)
 
Broke one during my engine rebuild, but it's not too bad with the engine on a stand, I bought a set and replaced them all, but take care not to force things and break another one.
I cut a slot into the webs between the outlets to try and make it less rigid
 
Never a waste of time advise is always handy when someones been through it before Iv not already taken it off. I never did it myself with my old engine it was done when I bought it and a brand new box of studs Just ended up doing a chassis swap leaving the engine gearbox and axles on my old landy. So this is teething issues with the donor lump being used
Come to think of it injector 5 was at 12 on the injector correction before I changed my injector harness. I did check after and all was 1 or 2.
 
As title says a snapped stud. (Don't know how long it's been like that)
Rear most one looking at the manifold. All the rest are ok.
But it's not blowing or leaving soot marks.
Would you just drill and retap that one before it does start blowing or am I going to HAVE to swap manifold.

Mines been like that for 3 years and still hasn't started blowing. Its not causing any issues so I will leave it until/if it does.
 
Job done. No other broken studs. Outer one on port 5 was broke below the cylinder head so drilled out and retapped to m10
 
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