td5 not starting after flat battery

sierrafery said:

IMO that 1515 thing is boll0x when it comes to a D2, that's why you get the single beep cos the code is not accepted ... also you dont have to hold the key after the last entry, after the last digit it must go to center, unlock then back to center but it's useless to try with 1515

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Thanks.
I’ll get on phone to my local dealer and see if they can look up the code for me, fingers crossed.

UPDATE

she’s a runner.


After the immobiliser being removed from the ecu there is a wire on the bcu that needs to be earthed.

cut the wire, put it to earth fired straight up

thanks for everyone’s help

the picture of the wire is below incase anyone needs in the future

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Could this be the Holy Grail of modern motoring?
An old skool workaround for a fecking annoying modern electrickery problem?
If so the world will beat a pathway to your door!

Yes, if that wire didnt get earth from the BCU means it was immobilised but simply doing that wiring bodge while the immobilser is still active didnt fix the issue even if the engine is running

sierrafery said:

Yes, if that wire didnt get earth from the BCU means it was immobilised but simply doing that wiring bodge while the immobilser is still active didnt fix the issue even if the engine is running

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Immobiliser is inactive.

tomstubbings said:

Immobiliser is inactive.

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I think you dont really uderstand how the immobiliser works, one of the elements(besdie the security signal to ECU) is that the BCU cuts the earth from the starter relay's coil which you bypassed now but there are other things involved too which you'll see in time by using it like that. You can believe me or you can insist that the immobiliser was "removed from the ECU" which is incorrect. Good luck

At the end of the day the issue was it was not running.

Now it is.

Everything works, so in my opinion I’m in a much better position.
Whether it’s correct or not I don’t know but at the end of the day it is no longer stuck sitting not running.

I spoke to my local dealer and the code for the eka they have on file is the same as the one on the original card so there is little I can do about that unfortunately.

not much idea where else to go short of changing everything out like the ecu, bcu, reader, key etc etc. In reality doesn’t warrant that expense.


Thanks again for everyone’s help

If the original EKA did not work someone may have changed it. If you connect a Nanocom or Foxwell NT520 or 530 you will be able to read the current EKA directly.

I am also in the same boat here ive changed both the fuse box and rf sender unit also phoned the dealers for the eka code which was all letters so quite a few turns of the key with no joy.
Ignition key is different to the door/remote fob. would doing this wire trick allow me to access the car via obd to see what code is on the bcu cheers

You can't access the BCU while it's immobilised, you have to change it cos it's probably fubar

sierrafery said:

You can't access the BCU while it's immobilised, you have to change it cos it's probably fubar

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do you know of anyone who repairs em matey i cant find anyone in the north east england who can come out and remove the immo

You'll have to remove it and send it to those who can, google out "discovery 2 bcu repair"