Td5 none start help pleaseee

hi guys looking for a bit of advice as I’m about the crack up and sell defender as spares

2001 td5 defender was driving down the road and it cut out and woudnt start again
Scanned using snap on scanner(codes attached as pic)
Checked red ecu plug for
Oil (none)
Changed injector harness
Changed crank sensor
Changed fuel filter
Checked fuses
Checked relays
Took pump out and cleaned mesh on bottom
Still not starting so I thought ecu must be fried, called a reputable ecu guy in Liverpool he came with a new ecu and plugged it in, As soon as he plugged ecu in it smoked a lot so he removed it and isn’t willing to try another ecu till I find the reason for it burning his new ecu out

I really don’t no what to do next
Any help appreciated

Dean

Don't forget the condition of the wiring loom itself. Not the injector loom, which is easy to change, but the main engine loom. Land Rover seemed to have a batch of wiring with brittle insulation and brittle conductors sometime in the 2000s and this has affected a few of us on here at various times. I had a whole new loom in early 2015 and no similar faults since. It may be that the wiring loom fault has damaged the ECU by now too. It certainly sounds like it has damaged your friend's. There's also some physical chafing possible, where the looms go over the gearbox, the route from the ECU to the accelerator ('driver demand') pedal, and on the spur that goes to the crank position sensor. And, I'm sure, in various other places. The wiring in the dashboard behind the instruments and behind the radio is very dense and congested and it wouldn't take much for it to wear through, rubbing against hard projections and self tapping screws. Might account for some of the instrumentation faults. Another bit of the looms that gets damaged are the wires in the corrugated tubes that go round the back of the engine. They're in just the right position to get pinched between the bellhousing and the engine block when you're putting it all back together after a clutch job.

I tend to see the 'peak charge long' faults when my injector loom is on the way out, but it sounds like you've already replaced that.

I assume all the faults come back if you clear them?

Yes they return like I Havnt even cleared them

I'm not an expert on these matters, I've just spent a good deal of time waiting for the AA to turn up during my last eight years of TD5 ownership. OK, it sounds like they're ongoing faults rather than just residual.

I'd be physically looking at the wiring looms for any obvious signs of chafing - places where the corrugated tubing has worn through and exposed the innards, or where wires might be touching any sharp edges. The other thing that happens is that the ridges in the corrugated tubing itself wears through the wires. It fills up with water too, which at this time of year is likely to be salty.