TD5 IMOBILIZED

Hi, all. New to your forum, but have been driving my TD5 for 11 years now, no major issues. Until now. I live in the US, so there is no reservoir of knowledge on TD5s and certainly not immobilizers.

I have sudden issues with the AS10. I have centralized locking, 2 Plips, so assuming my truck has the ALM ECU (black AS10). Had one intermittent issue where dash immobilizer light flashes, then everything went back to normal, engine cranked. I assumed the battery was low on the Plips, so replaced it as per workshop manual. No luck with that. I tried the second fob, no luck there, either. I noticed that the central locking does not occur with the fob or manually. Nor will the starter engage, but I can hear the fuel pump come on and the glowplug indicator lights up.

I have a Nanocom unit, and am working through all the settings, downloaded the latest System Overview from Nanocom. But there are no clear answers for me as yet.

So, how did they bypass the AS10? Why can't you simply run a positive feed wire from the ignition directly to the starter relay?
26th Aug 2022 10:55am

Update #1. I was able to confirm that my immobilizer ECU is the green one, which indicates it is the older, unavailable AS10 model.

Update #2. While checking the main engine ECU located under the seat, I found the DREADED OIL CONTAMINATION at the red multi-pin connector. I know. I have actually replaced the injector bundle with "O" ring within the 15,000 mile recommendation, but there it was.

Now, I'm thinking that the engine ECU may be shot, causing all the grief. I took the ECU out for inspection, but stopped short of removing the top cover, thinking I might be about to unseal a hermetically sealed unit. But I would love a look inside to see if oil actually worked its way into the unit. Anyone know if those special star-drive screws are there to prevent massacre? And while we are at it, how the heck does the oil travel so freely along the cable bundle? It's almost as if the oil is actually tracking INSIDE the sheath of each wire. Further, what am I in for with this revelation? HELP!!

So, I now have two problem sources, wondering which is the likely culprit, and how to tell which is the culprit. I am on my own here in the States. Haven't found anyone over here who has dealt with this TD5 issue.

The fault may be with your ECU, although l am not sure if that would result in the starter not operating.

You could start by checking the
engine earth strap, and the earth to the seat box where the ECU lives.

lt's possible to remove the top from the ECU, remove the four screws and then you'll need to prise the lid off, it's sealed with some sort of silicone.

Oil does get down inside the wires to the ECU, l guess it creeps down the inside of the wire, you can consider the injector harness a service item and replace it every time you service the vehicle

Have you checked the basic's alarm relay , starter relay ,bonnet switch , main earth cable etc if the fuel pump is being energised would suggest that it's not immobilised
the oil problem is quite common but as mentioned in a previous post there is cam cover vent valve that should be cleaned regularly to stop the cam cover over pressurising

Have you checked the basic's alarm relay , starter relay ,bonnet switch etc if the fuel pump is being energised would suggest that it's not immobilised
the oil problem is quite common but as mentioned in a previous post there is cam cover vent valve that should be cleaned regularly to stop the cam cover pressurising https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/injector-harness-td5.376585/
these seal have seen similar on Indramat machine drive motors they work submerged in tank of water but when cycled through various heating and cooling while the machine is subject to various mechanical loads the actual water based coolant in this case migrates through the seal by capillary action, if a similar seal of that fitted to the cam cover plug was used midway on the injector external harness the oil could not run down the loom to the ECU plug but really the seals on the plug should stop this occurring in the first place and finally the starter relay is earthed via the alarm unit

First, I have to say a big THANK YOU to those of you who have come to my rescue.
I do have yet another update. When all else fails . . . so I decided it was worth a try to see if the EKA code would possibly pull my fish out of the fire. Son of a gun, the beast fired right off. Not only did it crank using the code, it now continues to crank right up with the key and Plip. I will note here that the workshop manual states that the EKA bypass must be re-entered each time you crank without the immobilizer. So far, that's not the case.

Just for the record, I removed and replaced each and every fuse I could find just prior to the above success, thinking the immobilizer ECU fuse might have been blown, or at least a sketchy connection from corrosion at contact points. I did, in fact, re-try normal cranking with key and Plip with no success before I tried the EKA sequence, so I'm not certain that I solved anything by my fuse check. Only after entering my EKA code did the problem go away (at least for now).

I'm speculating here, that the rolling code was somehow lost, and I could not reset it following the Plip battery exchange sequence stated in the manual. It is of great comfort knowing that the truck cranked, and that I can re-start in an emergency using the EKA bypass. Plus, it rules out a dead engine AND immobilizer ECU, as well as the starter solenoid possibility.

I would welcome any further thoughts on the matter, and hope this thread can help someone else.

Hi mate I feel your pain.

All that immobiliser unit does is stop the legitimate owner from driving the Landy!

I eventually ran out of patience and removed the immobiliser from the ECU and snipped a wire on the AS10 and now Im free from niggling intermittent starting issues (relating to the immobiliser!!). I spoke to a company in Brighton and they were very helpful.

The starter can be an issue and I certainly had a pain sorting it. I checked and changed everything (including the actual starter motor) and it turned out to be the little plug that attaches to the starter form the power cable from the battery, it wasnt fitting snuggly.

I agree that if you are getting oil in the ecu then just change the loom every couple of years - they are reallly cheap and will save hassle later.

My immobiliser light still flashes etc on the speedo, so it looks like theres one on it but it doesnt affect the engine at all

Regards

Stumpy

Stumpy,
Even though I am up and running, I would like to do away with the immobilizer as you did. So, are you referring to removing the AS10 unit itself? Or, are you talking about unplugging it from the engine ECU? What specific wire did you clip on the AS10? Before I attempt this, I would like to know EXACTLY what to do. I have seen an advert from a company that offers to take the immobilizer off of the engine ECU, but you have to send them your unit. I'm a bit skeptical about mailing off my ECU, so I won't be trying that.
Daktari