Td5 Discovery TPS

Hello people,

can someone please tell me what the best way is to find out whether my throttle position sensor is 2 track or 3 track and the relevant part number. Can’t seem to find a satisfactory answer elsewhere.

The vehicle in question is a manual 53 plate Td5 Discovery. I’ve basically replaced everything else engine/sensor related which is giving me the old “misfire/kangaroo” problem and have been getting by by unplugging the TPS plug and just dousing the connections in contact cleaner. This was working for a while but the intervals between this are getting shorter and shorter so it really needs to be changed.

Thanks a lot

Jack

How good is your battery? my last TD5 showed a faulty TPS but it was caused by low volts from the battery even though the car started it wouldn't rev.

backinblack said:

How good is your battery? my last TD5 showed a faulty TPS but it was caused by low volts from the battery even though the car started it wouldn't rev.

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Very good as far as I’m aware. Starts very promptly every time. I don’t have any diagnostic equipment but I do have a multimeter and I’m basically going by process of elimination.

I may as well say now that In the past couple of months I’ve replaced the W/gate modulater, MAF sensor and injector harness. When doing the harness I also cleaned the relevant harness and ecu plugs with contact cleaner and did the same with the AAP and MAP sensor. All was well for about a month then the “misfire” came back. Like I said above, I did the same cleaning process with the TPS and that solved it for a few weeks but now thats turned into a few days.

Mine started over and over again, it just wouldn't rev until it had been running for half an hour while I was chasing the fault then it just started working.
New battery and all fine. May be worth checking the voltage before you throw money at a TPS.

backinblack said:

Mine started over and over again, it just wouldn't rev until it had been running for half an hour while I was chasing the fault then it just started working.
New battery and all fine. May be worth checking the voltage before you throw money at a TPS.

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Ah ok. Would you be able to give me some pointers on how to do that? And yeah, jsf 4x4 want £370 for a new unit! Can pick one up 2nd hand for about £50 but think I’ll try anything before I go down that route.

General rule I believe is check voltage with engine off, then with engine running at around 2000 rpm with everything switched on, lights, heated window, etc

backinblack said:

General rule I believe is check voltage with engine off, then with engine running at around 2000 rpm with everything switched on, lights, heated window, etc

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Thanks a lot. Just to to confirm, I’d be performing this test across the battery terminals and looking for a fairly healthy figure of at least around 12v both times?

Mr bouze said:

Thanks a lot. Just to to confirm, I’d be performing this test across the battery terminals and looking for a fairly healthy figure of at least around 12v both times?

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I’m no electric expert, but you should be getting up to 14v when it’s running. If it’s 12 or below not running it’s flat.

I think it depends on your alternator output but 12.6v and over without engine running is good, between 13v and 14v with engine running, below 12v is no good.
If you measure them and tell us what you're getting. If I remember correctly I was getting 11.6v which was enough to start it but gave low volts to the ecu's so it threw a hissy fit.
Hopefully a D2 eggspurt can chip in with the actual alternator voltage you should expect

Hi,
Multi meter on battery terminals with engine off and a good battery should be about 12.45v. Leave MM connected and start engine and should be 14v +
If you put your approx location in your profile there may be someone near you who could help.
Griff

backinblack said:

I think it depends on your alternator output but 12.6v and over without engine running is good, between 13v and 14v with engine running, below 12v is no good.
If you measure them and tell us what you're getting. If I remember correctly I was getting 11.6v which was enough to start it but gave low volts to the ecu's so it threw a hissy fit.
Hopefully a D2 eggspurt can chip in with the actual alternator voltage you should expect

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Brilliant, thanks. I should be able to try today if I can find a mate to sit in the drivers seat .

Landmark2 said:

Hi,
Multi meter on battery terminals with engine off and a good battery should be about 12.45v. Leave MM connected and start engine and should be 14v +
If you put your approx location in your profile there may be someone near you who could help.
Griff

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Thank you. Will try today.

Treat yourself to a cheap voltmeter off Ebay. I fitted one in my lads 90, just to monitor the charging voltage. You can instantly see if there are battery/charging problems as you drive.