RobertJ
Member
- Posts
- 38
- Location
- Netherlands
I have 2 90’ Td5’s one 10P and one 15P (MY2003).
I went on holiday with the 10P and took the 15P ECU as a spare with me as the 10P Defender did sometimes cut off while driving (probably the 2 big transistors on the way out). Luckily I had my other ECU with me as my 10P ECU failed, so I programmed my 15P ECU for the 10P Defender.
Back home I reprogrammed the 15P ECU back for the 15P Defender as I made backups on a SD and she started right away. Now I was abroad for a month and when I came home my 15P Defender does not start anymore.
The thing is, she turns over very good but won’t fire. Although the first attempt after sitting for a while she almost goes but then cuts on 1/3 of the fire (it that makes sense..)
This is what I have done and checked so far also after reading a lot on the forum and following the tips of @sierrafery
- reprogramed ECU again, 10as, injector codes and 3-way pedal are all ok.
- CPS gives 300rpm while cranking.
- CPS has a resistance of 1395 ohm, don’t know if that is good?
- Changed injector seals and washers some time ago, driven it hardly since.
- Fuse 20A (under the seat 4th from top) gives 36mv while the fuel pump is running.
- Bled it 100 times, when bleeding the FPR is making a hissing sound, assume this is ok?
- Put a new fuel filter on it
- Tank is 3/4 full
- With brake cleaner sprayed in the inlet it fires but dies at the same time.
- Fuel is streaming out of the FPR feed pipe
- Took off the return pipe from the fuel cooler to let airlocks escape while running the pump.
- Removed air bleed valve and the other red duck valve from the filter housing, which made no difference.
- No oil in loom
- pressed collision sensor
- Put a new strong battery in it.
- Tested the injectors with Nanocom, all worked.
- Injector codes are all ok but you can click on inj. Type and then a new set of codes appears and then another. The second set has the last digit changed into a * and the 3rd set has the last digit changed into a 5 or a 6. (Don’t know why but it is strange.)
I wanted to tow start it but then if she does not start I do not get it back on the driveway again, So I prefer not to try.
Also have no fuel pressure tester.
I always get them running but this drives me mad.
Any ideas??
I went on holiday with the 10P and took the 15P ECU as a spare with me as the 10P Defender did sometimes cut off while driving (probably the 2 big transistors on the way out). Luckily I had my other ECU with me as my 10P ECU failed, so I programmed my 15P ECU for the 10P Defender.
Back home I reprogrammed the 15P ECU back for the 15P Defender as I made backups on a SD and she started right away. Now I was abroad for a month and when I came home my 15P Defender does not start anymore.
The thing is, she turns over very good but won’t fire. Although the first attempt after sitting for a while she almost goes but then cuts on 1/3 of the fire (it that makes sense..)
This is what I have done and checked so far also after reading a lot on the forum and following the tips of @sierrafery
- reprogramed ECU again, 10as, injector codes and 3-way pedal are all ok.
- CPS gives 300rpm while cranking.
- CPS has a resistance of 1395 ohm, don’t know if that is good?
- Changed injector seals and washers some time ago, driven it hardly since.
- Fuse 20A (under the seat 4th from top) gives 36mv while the fuel pump is running.
- Bled it 100 times, when bleeding the FPR is making a hissing sound, assume this is ok?
- Put a new fuel filter on it
- Tank is 3/4 full
- With brake cleaner sprayed in the inlet it fires but dies at the same time.
- Fuel is streaming out of the FPR feed pipe
- Took off the return pipe from the fuel cooler to let airlocks escape while running the pump.
- Removed air bleed valve and the other red duck valve from the filter housing, which made no difference.
- No oil in loom
- pressed collision sensor
- Put a new strong battery in it.
- Tested the injectors with Nanocom, all worked.
- Injector codes are all ok but you can click on inj. Type and then a new set of codes appears and then another. The second set has the last digit changed into a * and the 3rd set has the last digit changed into a 5 or a 6. (Don’t know why but it is strange.)
I wanted to tow start it but then if she does not start I do not get it back on the driveway again, So I prefer not to try.
Also have no fuel pressure tester.
I always get them running but this drives me mad.
Any ideas??
Last edited:
