Td5 2004 thermostat not working

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Michael04disco

New Member
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8
Location
Huddersfield
Hi , Michael here and new to this so please be patient. May be obvious but can a faulty thermostat cause pressure and the top hose to blow and heaters to run cold on idle? Doesn't lose any water and had new water pump fitted. 2004 discovery. Thanks for any help in advance . Michael
 
Probably not. After all, at start up with a cold engine the thermostat isn't open but the water still goes round the heater circuit (or I'm pretty sure it does on mine, but it's a while since I had the pipes off) and it doesn't over pressurise anything. It's be looking for other kinds of faults. How long was it since the cooling system had a good flush? Could there be a gasket fault allowing combustion gasses into the coolant?
 
Probably not. After all, at start up with a cold engine the thermostat isn't open but the water still goes round the heater circuit (or I'm pretty sure it does on mine, but it's a while since I had the pipes off) and it doesn't over pressurise anything. It's be looking for other kinds of faults. How long was it since the cooling system had a good flush? Could there be a gasket fault allowing combustion gasses into the coolant?
Buy only pressure builds when it gets really hot , radiator always cold. Thank you for your response mick
 
Oops, haven't checked in for a few days so didn't see your response. You might try one of those kits that detects combustion products in the water just to rule out head gasket problems.

Thinking back to a problem I came across on a car many years ago, the impellor in the water pump had separated from the shaft so it wasn't pushing the water round. So the engine was getting hot but the radiator was staying cold. It wasn't a Land Rover though. But if all else seems OK, it might be worth looking at the water pump. It'll be easier than taking the head off at any rate
 
Oops, haven't checked in for a few days so didn't see your response. You might try one of those kits that detects combustion products in the water just to rule out head gasket problems.

Thinking back to a problem I came across on a car many years ago, the impellor in the water pump had separated from the shaft so it wasn't pushing the water round. So the engine was getting hot but the radiator was staying cold. It wasn't a Land Rover though. But if all else seems OK, it might be worth looking at the water pump. It'll be easier than taking the head off at any rate
Said he had a new water pump installed. I'm guessing combustion gases getting trapped in the cooling circuit, or a system that needs to be bled properly.
 
it sounds as though there could be a blockage or trapped air! I would give the system a good flush through then make sure the system is bled properly on refill.
 
Thanks guys , to update on the subject the thermostat wasn't opening witch I believe was causing the water to get that hot to make pressure. Always gone the next day as well. Really struggling to bleed properly now and getting a water sound behind dash first thing in a morning.
 
Also , sorry to change subject. I fit a new maf sensor because it ran better unplugged only for the new one to be the same plugged in . Had it plugged in at landrover centre and they said it was working as it should. But unplug it and the car is 10x better????
 
Really struggling to bleed properly now and getting a water sound behind dash first thing in a morning.

still sounds like trapped air, probably in the heater matrix. This happened to me some years ago with a Sierra, i ended up using a garden hose attached to return to expansion tank then turned on tap and blasted backwards through system for about 15 minutes. MUST be done when engine is COLD!
 
Basically I have lifted header tank , opened bleeding screw then filled till I have a constant flow. Tighten screw then refit header tank and fill to level . Should that be good enough? Just from what I've read online , some folk av different methods.
 
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