Td5 10AS double beep on ignition

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

resto_d1

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,378
Location
Wiltshire
Morning all, I have a Thatcham cat 1 with own sounder on my td5 defender
I also have 10AS which I believe is still live.
Since going into the garage, it double beeps (horn, not aftermarket chirps so to speak) when I put to ignition 2. It doesn’t actually do this all the time - it seems to do it in the morning after a nights sleep which is annoying!!
I’d assume my aftermarket overrides the original.
I also think when it happens the original red light I.e one within speedo stays solid.
My thought process is it’s armed but when I unlock and start with my aftermarket it overrides the 10AS?
I hope someone can shed a simple explanation/solution as I have a new issue each week at the moment!! I don’t want to go and play with it until a bit later as bit annoying for neighbours

cheers
 
Last edited:
Also, I meant to add the question of if bbus is disarmed will it remain disarmed or does it time out and re-immobilize like my cat 1 does?
 
Morning all, I have a Thatcham cat 1 with own sounder on my td5 defender
I also have 10AS which I believe is still live.
Since going into the garage, it double beeps (horn, not aftermarket chirps so to speak) when I put to ignition 2. It doesn’t actually do this all the time - it seems to do it in the morning after a nights sleep which is annoying!!
I’d assume my aftermarket overrides the original.
I also think when it happens the original red light I.e one within speedo stays solid.
My thought process is it’s armed but when I unlock and start with my aftermarket it overrides the 10AS?
I hope someone can shed a simple explanation/solution as I have a new issue each week at the moment!! I don’t want to go and play with it until a bit later as bit annoying for neighbours

cheers


It's odd behaviour, perhaps the garage had the battery disconnected for a while and the plip needs resyncing
 
Thanks Jim

I just went out to the car and it did the same.

I unlocked with my aftermarket alarm, standard alarm immobiliser was solid red i.e. no flashing.

Turned key to ignition 2, light goes off and horn beeps twice.

Got out and locked again, unlocked, turned to position 2 - no horn.

Really odd and to be honest its driving me nuts.

Cars cost me 700 odd in a couple of weeks
 
Oh and I did that with my spare standard plip and tested to see if it disarmed it which I'd guess it did as flashed indicators.
 
Not sure about the Thatcham cat1 (is that an alarm and an immobiliser) but if the standard plip still disarms the immobiliser then maybe the Thatcham alarm plip is the problem, low battery maybe?
One thing I have come across a few times with cars of 15-20 year vintage is the rechargeable batteries start to go in the BBUS causing all sorts of issues
 
Not sure about the Thatcham cat1 (is that an alarm and an immobiliser) but if the standard plip still disarms the immobiliser then maybe the Thatcham alarm plip is the problem, low battery maybe?
One thing I have come across a few times with cars of 15-20 year vintage is the rechargeable batteries start to go in the BBUS causing all sorts of issues

Thanks Jim. Pretty sure its not my new one - its an old school beep like brum or roadrunner rather than a modern siren noise.

I know nothing of the BBUS. Is it fairly traceable fault wise with nanocom?

I just rang the guy who fitted my new alarm and he said if its not the siren noise its not the new one. Plus we purposely set it to 'no noise' on lock and unlock.

Thatcham cat1 is just an insurance approved alarm and immobiliser.
 
I had this on mine when locking it would beep the bracket holding the bonnet switch was bent down not marking good connection hold it down fully with your finger and try again but sounds to me like your two alarms are linked and causing funky issues, best bet is to decide what system you want and rip out the other , or get a wiring diagram for the aftermarket one and work out where it’s tapped into your oem loom n start testing continuity’s earths etc or excess amp draws
 
Thanks all. Alarm has been on since feb. only issue I ever had was through own fault when I didn’t get door sensor back in nicely enough after bulkhead repair.
Rang alarm man - he said old system still live and will just sit passively immobilized whilst I’m using the new one.
I was thinking it could be the bonnet one if double beep on startup is still an open sensor noise as it went in to have the drop arm done and has only done it since it went in. It’s normal to drive etc. just toots twice like road runner each morning but doesn’t seem to do it if I get fuel or whatever. Odd.
 
Thank you all. Looks like this problem is closed out. As always, thanks so much for taking time to advise as I was really stressed due to work yest and this was annoying me ontop.
I went out and to confirm there’s actually no bbus on it.
Bonnet switch looked a bit worse for wear with dead gaiter but switch still operating. I zip tied it I close position and no double beep.
So I cleaned it up with contact cleaner and as above I just slightly bent it up towards bonnet. Made sure I did it before I got in car as it does it without fault on first start usually.
Seems double beep on startup is a warning of open sensor just like when you lock.
No nanocom - had planned to buy this month but when it went in for drop arm conversion they realized the lr specialist had forced a 48 spline steering wheel onto my 36 spline shaft.
As such I had to buy a new wheel. Was never in the plans but was the icing on the cake with the sumo bar conversion and ome steering dampener.
41BB92E4-68C6-4C78-89B3-5587472FAB60.jpeg
 
Thank you all. Looks like this problem is closed out. As always, thanks so much for taking time to advise as I was really stressed due to work yest and this was annoying me ontop.
I went out and to confirm there’s actually no bbus on it.
Bonnet switch looked a bit worse for wear with dead gaiter but switch still operating. I zip tied it I close position and no double beep.
So I cleaned it up with contact cleaner and as above I just slightly bent it up towards bonnet. Made sure I did it before I got in car as it does it without fault on first start usually.
Seems double beep on startup is a warning of open sensor just like when you lock.
No nanocom - had planned to buy this month but when it went in for drop arm conversion they realized the lr specialist had forced a 48 spline steering wheel onto my 36 spline shaft.
As such I had to buy a new wheel. Was never in the plans but was the icing on the cake with the sumo bar conversion and ome steering dampener.
View attachment 214714

Can't beat a Momo :)
 
Back
Top