TD4 won't rev over 4K??

Hi Guy's... Never been on the Landy Zone forum before but reading some post will be back soon....
But I wonder if you can help me with a problem I've noticed on my TD4 Freelander?
it's a 55 reg with 32K on it... LR serviced (sorrey I know!) from new...
I noticed the other day that I could hear the fuel pump when I turn the key in a morning before starting up... Don't think you could hear this before... not sure if it's related or not...and I've also been seeing a bit of smoke on start up?..... anyway.. as the title suggests, it's now not reving over 4K... I know this is high anyway but on a couple of the hills on the way to work you just push into this band and it's like hitting the rev limiter.. soon as it comes back.. it's off again no problem... nothing showing as Engine fault on the dash... What do you think?... It's coming up to a service so will get a looking at... but would like to trace this before it goes in... May be a blocked air filter? don't think so.. little use and not dusty conditions.. fuel filter getting blocked... or fuel pump and it's new noise?... any thoughts would be appreciated....
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Also.. it's now out of warranty so will be serviced at an indi... anyone know a good Landi place in the Leeds / Bradford area... I'm in Apperley Bridge close to the aireport... many thanks!!
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Update.. just been out in it again and it won't go over 3.6K now?.. what's happening????.
Had MAF issues before.. it's not that... what the turbo valve thing... could this be an issue??

Hiya,

Sorry to hear that you're having problems.

I had the turbo solenoid issue and it was the root cause of mine not pulling properly up hills at speed. See my post here for how to test it...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-lack-power-70mph-fixed-77147.html

Good luck

When you say turbo valve thing, there is a vacuum solenoid which operates the variable vanes on the turbo which can go faulty. There is also an egr valve bolted to the inlet manifold which needs regularly cleaned (or preferably a bypass fitted) or it gives problems. There is a crankcase breather filter/valve assembly which also blocks very easily & needs replaced every 12,000 miles but doesn't appear on a lot of service schedules as it wasn't known to be a serious problem till about 3 years ago. Your fuel filter will also need replaced as the original service schedule replacement of 60,000 miles is way too long. Also check your intercooler hoses for splits especially around the clips as this affects top end performance. Keep using plenty of injector cleaner regularly in your fuel. Do a search on here as there are other faults posted on here which can cause this as well.

Hi... Yes, did read this before posting... but my problem is fine until it hit's a certain RPM.. then it like the rev limiter jumps in... As I said it's now at 3.6K... Just off out for lunch... will see if it's got any lower!!
But not a genral lack of power... more a switch off situation.....

Thanks .. will check thoes out.. like the sound of the EGR valve myself... off to disconnect the tube and stuff a bolt in the pipe.. see what that does.. Cheers...

Did that... went to the shop.. no change.. came out and it would not start!!... But also.. there was no pump noise... Left it a while, tried the ingnition a few times... after 10 mins and 5 or 6 times of trying... I got the pump noise again.. started straight up....
Think this i sthe problem... It's not working right and may be not getting the correct pressure in the fuel lines... So at top rev's it's running out of fuel??...
Will have a look for a new pump.. any reccomendations?...
Do you think this association followes??

I had similar issue and changed the crankcase breather and all was resolved. Got mine from EBAY for £21 but BMW have an upgraded one without the filter in which by all accounts a lot better.

Freelander Beaver said:

Did that... went to the shop.. no change.. came out and it would not start!!... But also.. there was no pump noise... Left it a while, tried the ingnition a few times... after 10 mins and 5 or 6 times of trying... I got the pump noise again.. started straight up....
Think this i sthe problem... It's not working right and may be not getting the correct pressure in the fuel lines... So at top rev's it's running out of fuel??...
Will have a look for a new pump.. any reccomendations?...
Do you think this association followes??

Click to expand...

Hi This definatley sounds like a pump problem i can hear my pump priming up every time i switch on the ignition

Hope you get it sorted

Gordon

Sorry I didn't read it properly. Yes I had the wouldn't rev up to red and replaced the crankcase breather which resolved it. I can hear my pump when I turn the key.
Try that first.

Yes well... new pump coming tomoro... £99 plus vat and post... not bad I supose... if it's making a noise and now let me down once it need to be changed....
But I may have a secondary problem on the 4K rev limit also unless as I said before.. it's dropped in pressure due to why ever it's making the noise....
I did take the EGR valve off tonight just for a look see what it does.. yuck... all carboned up .. well carbon one side and mucky oil the other... I've not put the pipe back on so it won't work now.. assume the ECU does not know this...
Whats a EGR bypass valve do?.. I assume it blanks off the exhaust port and provides a straight thru pipe for the air?.. nothing more than that?.. is this correct.. if so I'll make one.
But if cleaning this and the new pump don't stop my problem... it's digging a bit deeper towards the turbo and the valves there... can anyone tell me where they are located so I can ID these things... I don't have a Haynes manual so am a bit in the dark... also checked the air filter tonight and that looks okay.. but will get a new one just incase....
Great.. thanks for all your help so far... if anyone can comment further it would be welcome... Cheers!!

Freelander Beaver said:

Yes well... new pump coming tomoro... £99 plus vat and post... not bad I supose... if it's making a noise and now let me down once it need to be changed....
But I may have a secondary problem on the 4K rev limit also unless as I said before.. it's dropped in pressure due to why ever it's making the noise....
I did take the EGR valve off tonight just for a look see what it does.. yuck... all carboned up .. well carbon one side and mucky oil the other... I've not put the pipe back on so it won't work now.. assume the ECU does not know this...
Whats a EGR bypass valve do?.. I assume it blanks off the exhaust port and provides a straight thru pipe for the air?.. nothing more than that?.. is this correct.. if so I'll make one.
But if cleaning this and the new pump don't stop my problem... it's digging a bit deeper towards the turbo and the valves there... can anyone tell me where they are located so I can ID these things... I don't have a Haynes manual so am a bit in the dark... also checked the air filter tonight and that looks okay.. but will get a new one just incase....
Great.. thanks for all your help so far... if anyone can comment further it would be welcome... Cheers!!

Click to expand...

you can get a egr bypass on e-gay for 39.00 better than making a one as there is a lot of heat at the blanknig part there are lots of threads on egr bypass have a read through will make it a lot clearer

Mmm... was thinking of turning a blanking plug for the exhaust pipe bit.. and the clamp used would lock it in place... and a straight tube with flange for the air?.... I assume this is how it works (or is blanked off??)
Will the ECu show it as diconnected??

If your egr valve is gunked up then your inlet manifold will be also. Have a look at the sticky thread regarding the EGR bypass. I cleaned out my egr, pipes and manifold then unplugged it.
I couldn't get over the amount of gunk in the manifold. It took two cans of oven cleaner to get rid of all the crap in there. Once I had done that pick up was a lot better but still wouldn't rev over 3500. So after reading some threads on here I changed the crankcase breather and the difference was remarkable. Goes straight into the red when I put the foot down now.

Have a look at the following link on green oval. They have the RAVE CD to download so you will not need Haynes manual.
Download it to your pc then burn to disk. Lots of good info on there.
http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=13&Itemid=29

By the way you say that you have smoke also. is this at start up and white?
Some people on here are having this problem and i was wondering if the fuel pump will make a difference.
Keep us informed.

Yes.. just a bit on initial turn of the key... Just one puff (as you might say)... And it does appear to have started at the same time as my pump became noisey....
Thanks for the above... very usefull... I will also get a crankcase breather and fit it next week after seeing if the pump solves the problem (don't want to change too many bit's at once or we'll never know what solved it... Where does the breather thing do.. it look like quite a big cover?.. do you do it from the top or bottom... Will also have a go at the download.. Thanks again.
This is my 3rd FReelander now and I really like them fist one was X reg, but they have always been upgraded when 3 years old as they are company funded... This is the only one I've had out of warranty.. but not sure I want to go to version 2 with it's bag suspention etc... What's the thoughts on here... do people like Freelander 2?.. I've driven a couple and they are very nice... but have they gone too far with the bit's on them beyond what you have with the 1's??
Anyway.. I've never been under the bonnet before on the others so will have to learn....
That said.. I have a TVR so I'm not novice when it comes to engine problems etc!!
Cheers.. will let you know what happens....:clap2:

Wack an old TVR lump in the gaylander and be done with it

Good plan.. but then read the V8 stuff!!... Slipping liners, cracks, restricted manifolds, pistons, cams, small bearing cranks etc etc.... The Gaylander I'm sure is a much more bullet profe engine... even with it's issues!....
Getting into this now... looking at re-mapping... My mate had his TD5 done... It's like a rockett!... Assume it's the same on these??????????

Hi
The crankcase breather is by the injectors at the top of the engine. You will need to remove air filter cover to get it out though. it come out no problem with a wiggle and absolute doddle to change. You will see it straight away when you take the cover off. I would recommend that you change it anyway because it can cause problems to your turbo if it is bunged up. Land Rover announced that it should be changed as part of a service every 12000 miles.

Have a look at this web site. Lot of people on here like this unit as it also has a MAF compensator which helps to boost signal of a degrading MAF.
Tuning-diesels for cheaper diesel tuning.
Synergy 2 has a tuning box and MAFAM in one.

I would recommend a haynes manual, you might get one cheap on EBAY.

Interesting.. I have seen this before .. Is it the Rover Ron guy??...
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When doing the Breather.. do you just do the filter.. as looking on Flea-bay.. they appear to come with the housing also?.. any reason to replace this lot??

BMW have brought out a modified breather
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-crankcase-filter-62361.html