TD4 Lack of Power

Hi All,

This is my first post and I would be most grateful for some advice before approaching the LR dealers. I have a TD4 MK 1 LR Freelander 04 plate; since the 'Cold Snap' began a few weeks ago I have been having problems with a lack of power. It first showed itself one morning when I was unable to get above 20 MPH and the Engine Management Light (EML) came on. I drove her back home and tried later. However, although I managed to get to move a little faster she was very sluggish and when I tried to 'rev her up' the revs would not go beyond 3750 and the EML light would reappear. I dosed the fuel with REDX and gave her a good 100 mile spin but to no avail; she struggled to get above 85 MPH and that took ages and 'died a death' up a slight incline. I have had her put through a diagnostic machine and a constant code of P1260 fuel pressure sensors shows. I managed to locate both sensors and thought of using the process of elimination; as the Low pressure sensor is the easiest to disconnect I tried that first. To my surprise the revs shot around the clock. Believing this to be the problem I continued to run without the sensor connected for a few days and today 13th Dec 2010 have had the sensor replaced. However, the problem is still there. I recently cleaned the EGR and looked at the MAF, which seemed clean. I have recently had a service and the fuel, air and crankcase breather filters have been exchanged so what can it be?
I have just read a thread by Kungfu and his was cleared by replacing the turbo boost soleniod anybody else suffered and cured the same problem by replacing this item?
I would appreciated any clues!
Mike

Firstly you should not have run it with the Lp pressure sensor disconnected it's intended to stop the Hp pump from running at reduced supply pressure and getting damage.

The P1260 is indicating low pressure at the sensor and will be a faulty Lp fuel pump under the rear wheelarch next to the filter.

Many thanks for the advice. I am a bit confused; on an 04 plate model how many pumps do I have? Some say two, one in the tank and the one you mentioned. I have also been told that I have just the one. The Haynes manual is about as much use as a 'pocket on a vest' any ideas?

Just the one pump under the arch, guaranteed.

Cheers Chaser, I ordered one from ebay and hopefully should recieve it before Chrimbo. However, I'm disappointed in LR. I odered the part from this site on ebay and paid with Paypal. Yesterday I thought that I would just check with LR to see if the part I ordered was the same as part as precribed on this guy ebay page. To my horror the number LR gave me, part number WYH 000190 at £54.60, was nothing like the one on ebay. Consequently I cancelled the ebay part, much to annoyance of the guy, and ordered the genuine part. That evening I re-called LR to check and this time had another chap on the line. It was diffesent story this time. The chap in the morning had given me the part number of another pump on the vehicle, one that LR said they had never sold before. The one that I wanted was infact the one on ebay but the genuine LR part was 3-times as much. For my inconvenience LR were prepared to give me a fiver off, nice eh! Anyway, eating a big slice of humble pie I have reordered the part from ebay. Just to mentioned that I am still confused as the number of pumps this vehicle has as during my discussion with the parts fellow yesterday he claims the car has 3 pumps, one in the tank, the one under the right rear wheel cover and one just after or before the fuel burner or something like that. Is there a fuel lift pump do you know?
Best regards

Mike

Early Td4's have the in-tank lift pump plus I believe the underbonnet secondary lift pump followed by the main high pressure cam chain driven main pump. From around mid 2002 they changed the design & fitted one lift pump only under the rear wheelarch as (Chaser says) plus you still have your main high pressure pump.
If your fuel filter lives under the rear wheelarch, you've got the later system. If it lives under the bonnet you've got the early system.

Models fitted with a fuel burn heater will also have a small fuel pump to supply that but it has nothing to do with the running of the car.

^^^^^^ as above, no lift pump on yours. Parts people, what do they know eh (prepares for incoming)

It's too late now I suppose but you should not have gone for a cheap pump, they tend to be noisy and not as reliable as genuine or oem part.

Cheers Chromium & Chaser,

As you say a bit late now with the pump. However, if it sorts the problem out for the time being then I shall be happy, I can always change it for the genuin article later when Christmas is a distant memory and I am a bit more flush. Not only that I should be a bit wiser on changing the pump. I'll let you know how I get on.

Regards

mike

To Chaser & others who wrote with advice.
Well, against my better judgement I changed the pump and the filter yesterday, amongst the snow. What a job. Looks and reads easy in the books but once you get into it, ‘Holy Moses’. Maybe it was just my motor but it wasn’t as straight forward as the books suggest. One of the two bolts holding the plastic pump and filter assembly was a nightmare to undo; and why is it that motoring manufacturers feel it necessary to cramp as much as possible into a small space? My next problem was to get the old filter out!!!! A few invective words at the side of our road during this operation; It was struck solid. In the end I had to drift it and use a pair of stilson’s to help it out. Surely that can’t be right. The pump came out no problem but the replacement (not a genuine part) pump was not exactly the same, minutely smaller but fitted ok. That’s when the second scene of misfortune came about. The replacement filter (Unipart) was fractionally too big and proved to be right g*t to get into the plastic housing; so much so as it eventually made its way into cradle the plastic cracked on me and also snapped the earthing connector off. After much pi**ing about I managed to assemble it and get it ready for a test run.
I’m not entirely sure if I have sorted the problem out really. Yes, it does respond better, yes I can rev it up into the red zone without the Management Light coming on but on the Motorway this morning I could just about make 90 -95 mph. Its OK virtually no traffic about and road was clear of snow and ice.
I intend to replace the plastic housing in due course and get another filter too; might also, funds permitting, get a genuine pump next time. Does anybody know where you could pick up one of these housing? Also what is the maximum speed these cars are capable of?
Mike

there have been a few threads commenting on the difficulties of filter removal, do a search....

a little spring clip accessed by removing the sedimentor usually gets missed and makes the filter a pig to change.

try ebay for someone breaking a Td4 for the plastic housing.

I remember reading somewhere that some of these non genuine pumps don't have the same flow/pressure rating. if this is the case it will ultimately affect the output from the high pressure pump (and injection pressures) at the top end. I don't know what top speed is possible though, i never go beyond a very occasional 80mph.

try some millers diesel additive to clean the injectors it worked a treat on mine

Depending on version, figures are 100/102 mph top speed, it aint a lotus elise!

90-95mph..... that will be about 15mpg then

If you really want to frighten yourself, convert mpg to miles per litre and then realise how much this is costing you all

Same as Chaser, I've never gone above 80 & don't think I ever will. These cars aint fast even after being transformed by a synergy & egr along with regular generous slugs of millers - much improved but still not what I call fast, but then I'm thinking of my old BMW 535i, now there was a car..................

chromiumuk said:

Same as Chaser, I've never gone above 80 & don't think I ever will. These cars aint fast even after being transformed by a synergy & egr along with regular generous slugs of millers - much improved but still not what I call fast, but then I'm thinking of my old BMW 535i, now there was a car..................

Click to expand...

had mine over the ton [on a private test road officer] and it wer smooth as a Zoglins bum]

Fitted a Pro-Bitz tuning chip to my TD4 auto and although it won't go any faster it does get there a hell of a lot quicker. and its slightly better on fuel too.

Hi Chaser,
Many thanks for your recent help and advice. I'm back from aboard and still trying to tackle this, I think, fuel problem. Although changing the fuel pump and filter has sorted out the problem with the Mangement Light coming on and the problems with power I am not convinced the problem has been sorted completely. I have no problems starting her and she ticks over well enough. I just feel that the power is not 100% to what it used to be. Also, I have noticed that that the gear change (Auto) is not as smooth as previous was and even at 40 mph it struggles to get into top gear; to acheive this, I accelerate to 50 mph then ease off and it slips into top gear. You mentioned, in one of your quotes, about fitting an inferior pump, do you think that fitting a genuine one would probably sort this out. I have to fit a new pump and filter housing soon, after the fight I had and subsequent breaking of the plastic fitting, so I was thinking of getting a genuine LR pump and filter and bench fitting them prioir to refitting the housing. Whats your opinion?

Well I've never took a chance with an aftermarket pump personally. My comment on flow rates/pressures was based on information from others. I have however found that changing a weak Lp pump has resulted in noticeably better engine response which I put down to the fact that the low inlet pressure to the Hp pump results in low output from it.
I couldn't say with any certainty that this is so in your case but it could be worth trying if you can't find anything else wrong.
As for the gear changes are you also finding the upshifts occur later than they used to?

Hi Chaser, I changed the turbo booster soleniod today following a lot of threads from on here and there is a marked improvemnt in the gear upshift change. But you are absolutely right thats was (hopefully) the problem. I took her for a test drive after the replacement and it seemed to make a heck of a difference. I have also fitted a CR2 chip box too to help (hopefully) in its towing capabilities. After a test drive with this fitted the differnce was incredible. I shall monitor the gear change and let you know. Cheers for you assistance. Best regards.

don't forget the auto holds gears longer when the engine is cold