TD4 fuel return from injector pump

hi,

If the injector pump is not working, does it return fuel on the same pipe as the injector return?

My hippo won't start, spins over but thats it.

I took the retuen tube off the last injector, attached another tube, and ran into a bottle to catch the fuel.

I expected to see fuel leaked back, into bottle from the injectors.

After turning the engine over, i see fuel spewed out from the return pipe that i disconnect and none from the injector return.

Is the spilled fuel from the injector pump (the schematic in the rave manual should that it may be the same pipe)? why else would fuel come the wrong out out of the return pipe?

and the big question : Is my injector pump knackered?

Sorry but I know this is an old thread ----- but it seems I have a similar problem lots of spinning but no ignition with the fault reading as the injector pump. Do you mind me asking how you sorted the problem with your out?
Cheers

Hi Craig,

Mnine started to do this occationally. Drive somewhere, leave it half an hour, come back and it would not start. Just spun over. Leave it a couple more hours and it would go first time. Took it to DCV, they look at the injector loom and replaced it, and at the cam sensors, they didn't thing that these where the issue and the fault did not occur whilst they had it. There was no code on the ECU.

They suggested that I can try an start it by spraying easy start into the air intake whilst cranking it. If that gets it start, the fault is usally the pump.

I was doing this for about 3 weeks, until the pump completely failled. It would run with a few revs on, but stalled on tick over. Green flag picked it up and dropped it back at DCV who fitted a new high pressure pump. Thinkit cost £700 ish.

The car has been fine ever since.

I did learn that there is a company in Doncaster called Sure Start who can re-condition the pump. When they fail, the rubber seals insite allow fuel to pass by them and they don't build up enough pressure. The seals are replacable, but the car is out of use for the time it has no pump.

I could be wrong, but I think that the error code corresponds to the low pressure pump, which is the electric one, either in the fuel tank or on the passenger site inner wing. when you turn on the ignition, and not start the engine, you should here a whiring noise for about 30 seconds. The noise is the low pressure fuel pump.

If the pump is running, turn the ignition, leave for 15-20 seconds, turn it of again. Do that about 5 or 6 time and it might start. running the electric pump a few times will build up pressure on the system. Again when the electric pump fails completely, the car will stop running. My cut out in morning rush hour in the centre of leicester. No fun!

Hope this helps you

Thanks for the help, it seems the High Pressure Fuel Pump has sprung a leak. I took the approach that 'having a little llok can't do any harm'. i stripped off the inlet manifold after loosening one of the fuel lines and getting a reasonable amount of fuel come out. i turned the engine over for a good 10 seconds or so before a friend spotted fuel spurting out of one of the gaskets (the flat rectangular part facing the radiator). i'm in the middle of trying to replace this part myself and can see the advantages of paying someone else to do it - pressently have a jack supporting the engine whilst removing the top support to gain better access - damn my DIY mentality

I was going to have a little look at my thermostat, until I read a post on here.

4 hours of faffing.....will pay some to do that!!!

Ruttiore said:

Thanks for the help, it seems the High Pressure Fuel Pump has sprung a leak. I took the approach that 'having a little llok can't do any harm'. i stripped off the inlet manifold after loosening one of the fuel lines and getting a reasonable amount of fuel come out. i turned the engine over for a good 10 seconds or so before a friend spotted fuel spurting out of one of the gaskets (the flat rectangular part facing the radiator). i'm in the middle of trying to replace this part myself and can see the advantages of paying someone else to do it - pressently have a jack supporting the engine whilst removing the top support to gain better access - damn my DIY mentality

Click to expand...

Hi , just had my hp pump replaced , due to it leaking , cost £207 for a exchange pump plus labour , as you need a couple of tools to retain the timming chain sprocket , i had another small leak in the same place and found it was one of the hose clips to the pump , was not as tight as it shoud have been !

Thats cheap, Ian! Well done

That's a really good deal, I paid £225 + vat for a recon HP Pump with 1 yr warranty, bought the fitting tool for £30 inc vat and spent a happy 10-15 hours, after cutting the fuel pipes that wouldn't come off - extra £32 for speedy delivery direct from LR.
He's running like a beast now though, so much more go. A thoroughly horrible job to do though, removing Starter Motor, draining colling system and moving/removing all pipes, taking large engine mount on left (as you look at it) off in order to raise the engine high enough to fit the Crank holding tool (for want of a better name for it) - that pushes the HP Pump off and then you do it all in reverse - great opportunity for a full service too - changed everything. My advice at the moment is PAY SOMEONE ELSE!!!!!
I may change my tone in a few months and am pretty chuffed that I managed to do the job myself. I toyed with getting a pump from a breakers but the thought of having to do it all again, possibly, within a few months send me into a cold sweat!!!

Interesting read - mine leaks when cold and after searching on this forum it's a common fault for o rings in pump to do this. I found a link to some great pics from a thread on here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-injector-pump-leak-96434.html
link on third page to one of the forums members own website - great pics and useful hints for this work.
After reading this I think I'll be getting some help with this one.

Have now done 4 pump changes (not on the same motor) and would say allow 4 hours for pump out and in. You can do it with out removing any coolant pipes and can do it with starter in place. Not done the refurb of pump myself, but may try it if I have to do another.

You must have spindly fingers my friend? 4 Hours??? I assume you are simply removing the engine mount, jacking it up, using the crank sproket tool and removing it that way?
I have said that this was something i normally would ask the garage to do and am not the fastest but I really cannot see how you can do it that quickly.......fair play to you chap......I suppose you get quicker the more regularly you do these??? I followed Haynes instructions which had removal of all extras as necessary.
Seems much more common than I realised tho.

Just looked at a well put together explaination of the job and the pump - see
index
This guys shows doing it the same way as I did but I guess that's down to personal preference and how much skin you want to remove from you knuckles.