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Freelander 1 TD4 clutch replacement problem!!!

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by joshremlin, Jun 21, 2016.

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  1. joshremlin

    joshremlin Active Member

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    Hi All,
    I've just built the car back up after changing the clutch and replacing it with a solid DMF conversion its the freelander 1 TD4 on a 03 plate so it haves the bleed-able hydraulics. I started bleeding the clutch up and with no luck it wouldn't go in to gear with the engine running and pressing the pedal so I then followed a guide on here,its the same when the engines off if you put it in gear and turn it over it pulls so I don't think its the gear box but as soon as you start the engine it wont go in gear.

    There is pressure behind the pedal so I wasn't thinking it was the master cylinder or is this where I'm wrong ??

    Has anyone else had problems after fitting the solid flywheel ??
     
  2. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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    Did you change the slave?
     
  3. joshremlin

    joshremlin Active Member

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    Sorry Alibro I forgot to mention what was changed... Yes the slave was changed. No airs coming out when bleeding fluid is shooting out
     
  4. dave21478

    dave21478 Active Member

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    Wedge the clutch pedal down overnight and see if that helps.

    If not, its time to get serious. The slave is a sh1t design. The input and bleed take of point are not at the top of the circular cylinder so there is always a chance of getting an air bubble in it that is hard to shift.

    - wrap ptfe tape around the threads on the bleed screw; dont get any on the conical seating area.
    - fit a bit of washer tube over the nipple and make sure its an airtight seal.
    - fit the other end to a large syringe or small funnel and hang it up at least 30 cm higher than the master cylinder.
    - add fluid to the funnel and let it run down the tube to the bleed screw (might have to pull the tube off to get the air out)
    -open the bleed screw about a half a turn and hold the clutch pedal down.
    - fluid will flow backwards from the funnel through the system and into the master cylinder - watch it doesnt overflow...remove the excess as it appears.
    -DO NOT let the tube go empty, this will drw a load of air in through the bleed screw. Keep the funnel topped up at all times.
    - run plenty fluid through then close the bleed screw.
    -try the pedal. if no good, carry on....
    -remove the funnel and plug the end of the washer tube with a screw or small bolt.
    - cut a slit with a very sharp knife across the tube about a third of the way through it near the bolt. This makes a basic one way valve.
    - dip this end in a bottle of fluid and open the bleed screw half a turn again;
    - pump the pedal slowly. you might have to lift it up by hand each time.
    - DO NOT let the fluid level in the master cylinder drop too low, top it up after every 2 or 3 pumps.
    - run plenty of fluid through.
    -with the pedal right at the bottm, close the bleed screw.

    Should hopefully work.
     
  5. joshremlin

    joshremlin Active Member

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    Cheers for that bit of advice Dave... after work I went out and bought a one way valve pipe for a whopping £1.50 which i thought wasn't bad at all.. I bled it though, I used a small fruit shoot bottle which I cleaned and dried out to stop any contamination I put two bottles worth though making sure it didn't drop too low on fluid. When I gave it a try I managed getting 3rd and 5th gear nicely so I bled it more and managed reverse then I bled it even more to loose them all so I just cant work it out... Could the master be letting in air ?? I cant see any leaks on it though so its defiantly not leaking fluid. I'm start to think would a suction type bleeding kit be better sucking the fluid out of the master through the bleed nipple ?? I do have a new slave cylinder on its way for free under warranty but obviously they want the old unit back to see if its a failure or I've damaged it fitting it as the parts people keep trying to blame me for as apparently the manufacturer only ever get 0.07% returned what are faulty.

    Oh since the first two bottles worth of fluid I must of managed another 4/5

    Josh
     
  6. Joe_H

    Joe_H Well-Known Member

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    Hi,
    Isn't this the one with the slave cylinder inside the bell -housing that operates directly on the release bearing :eek:
    The recommended way - according to Haynes (nothing in RAVE:mad:) is to use a pressure bleed system on this one. (not suction kit!)
    I would definitely try that. Owing to the design, this would be by far the surest way to rid the system of air..
    Fingers crossed!o_O
    Joe
     
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  7. joshremlin

    joshremlin Active Member

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    Cheers Joe.. I don't own a Haynes manual on the rave manual and as you said there's nothing in there on this... I have ordered a new master but I'll try your way of bleeding it first if not I'll try the new master before splitting the gear box from the engine again because as you said the slaves in the bell housing!!

    Cheers bud, Josh
     
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