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TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

Discussion in 'Technical Archive' started by joe27979, Feb 19, 2011.

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  1. Samc1981

    Samc1981 New Member

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    Hi I'm new here and new to owning Land Rovers, we have a freelander TD4 diesel and cannot for the life of me find where to top up Clutch Fluid.. Please can someone help me :)
     
  2. kalo

    kalo New Member

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    Hi, i have a freelander td4 2005.

    Some months ago i changed the clutch , slave cylinder and this big expensive wheel that its recommendable to change when you change the clutch.
    For some months everything was ok, but last month my clutch failed again(pedal touched the floor and i was unable to change gears), so i changed the master cilinder and was ok.
    Now after one month its not working again(cant change gears, pedal is touching the floor) and i dont know what may be the reason
    as i changed everything and replaced with new parts.

    Any help will be highly appreciated!
     
  3. 61jason61

    61jason61 Active Member

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    awesome, just googled this as my clutch has gone light and started getting difficult to get gears at times. great pics.
     
  4. joe27979

    joe27979 Well-Known Member

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    Glad it was helpful :)
     
  5. 61jason61

    61jason61 Active Member

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    i have had the clutch reservoir pot open before out of curiosity of what it was, perhaps i didn't make sure it was on fully, made a psshhh noise when i opened it and empty!!!!

    have topped up, pumped pedal with engine running and replaced cap fully, driven up road, much smoother gear change and bite point up half inch. so seems good. will have to keep eye on it and investigate further.

    any suggestions other than a possible loose cap where i need to look for possible leaks?
    thanks jason
     
  6. joe27979

    joe27979 Well-Known Member

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    Master cylinder is first place to look, or behind clutch pedal in Footwell.

    If they are both dry it's your slave cylinder inside bell housing!
     
  7. 61jason61

    61jason61 Active Member

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    i'm so happy to find a moist pedal piston lol. bell housing sounds like a whole world of pain and money lol, i can get master cylinder of scrappy car i hope, if same. otherwise its ebay. scrappy = free as i look after owners nieces pony and her niece lol
     
  8. 61jason61

    61jason61 Active Member

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    have got a decent master cylinder from scrap yard, £0, quick release end of pipe cut when engine removed. i've managed to release pin under resovoir pot and remove the pipe that way.

    I assume once i replace the cylinder i have to bleed regardless? one i got looks quite new so result there.

    have now changed the master cylinder, pedal feels different than before, not sure if good or bad but all gears engage smoothly and slightly higher bite point but like it low as often have horse trailer with ponies in and easier to pull away with a low bite point lol
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2016
  9. 61jason61

    61jason61 Active Member

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    also, the fluid that came out was cloudy and some black like original post, have put a 500ml bottle through, thinking of redoing but been advised if it feels ok and working ok leave it, apparantly owner shouldn't open that pot on master cylinder, little symbol which you cant see in place ! suggests not opening lol, my garage mate told me , i looked when changing it
     
  10. Roberticus

    Roberticus New Member

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    I gotta say a big thanks for this tutorial. My clutch pedal hit the floor recently - I just followed these steps today, and job done in about an hour. Great advice to assemble the bits before hand (though I had to improvise on the syringe). Would guess 6mm hose its whats required, though I got away with 9mm fish tank stuff and a bastadised grommet. Once the hoses and airbox were gone, I could see where everything had been moved out of the way on previous bleeds, and got the job done easily enough. The state of the crap that came out though - wonder it worked at all!
     
  11. joe27979

    joe27979 Well-Known Member

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    Glad it's still helping folk out :)
     
  12. LP1

    LP1 New Member

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    Just wanted to add my thanks for this tutorial. I've got a problem with the concentric slave - told it's definitely that by mechanic I trust - but bled the system according to the instructions and seem to have got full clutch back. Whether it will stay back is another matter, but at least I can get to the shops while I work out whether I want to empty my wallet getting it done. Incidentally, Haynes only gives three spanners for the concentric slave replacement = that seems la bit optimistic, It's a freelander TD4, so everything has to come apart to get at it. Surely not a job for a relative novice?
     
  13. Larahausp1

    Larahausp1 Member

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    Hiya just been reading this forum. I have about 10mm play at top of pedal is this normal the bite is about half way.
     
  14. Burntweenie

    Burntweenie Member

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    Very useful info, many thanks. First major drive (from Thurso to Aberdeen) and noticed the lower gear changes becoming increasingly 'agricultural' as the journey progressed.

    I've bled the clutch and ended up with a bottle full of cloudy muck with black particulates in suspension. It took more like 20 odd pumps to end up with 200ml of old fluid. It never got to the stage where there were two separate fluid types in the bottle like the photo, just a full bottle of cloudy muck.

    Clutch marginally better and the bite point a wee bit higher, but 1 and 2 are a bit tough to select once the engine is warm.

    Any ideas? The master, slave, fly and clutch were all replaced at 112k - odo now at 133k. The master looks like a Britpart.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017
  15. Larahausp1

    Larahausp1 Member

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    When pressing pedal down does the bleed nipple need to be tightened back up before re pressing
     
  16. freelandy2004

    freelandy2004 Active Member

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    Hi have a read here may help

    https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-low-bite-point-again.316351/
     
  17. steve569

    steve569 New Member

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    hi wifes freelander 1 facelift 2005, replaced master cylinder, connected up back bled system as had to undo the quick connect union, went to pump pedal, bit of resistance and then bang, pulled the guts out of the mc into footwell,?? any ideas
     
  18. joe27979

    joe27979 Well-Known Member

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    Is the quick connect coupler joined properly? Can only think the MC was forcing fluid to a dead head and that’s why it gave
     
  19. WildOne

    WildOne Active Member

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    Hey guys i just read thru the 3 pages as i just picked up a TD4 Freelander 1998 model 2.0L my clutch does not have a bleed nipple it is a sealed unit i have pictures but how on earth can u bleed such a clutch? the last owner had just installed it it looks to be the correct slave but no bleed nipple just one hose going to the slave that runs up to the master/reservoir at the fire wall
     
  20. mdriponuk

    mdriponuk New Member

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    Had the dreaded clutch to the floor moment yesterday after a couple of warnings last week with the pedal not retuning. Bleeding and filling seems to have fixed it for now but it looks like the problem is the master cylinder. There’s evidence of a small leak in the cockpit.However I have a problem with the master to slave connector, I’ve found that the plastic ring that needs to be pushed in to release the joint has disintegrated and there’s nothing to push in. Any idea how to disconnect the pipes or a workaround? Thanks Martin
     
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