Td4 Bmw m47 engine No Start problems

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Hibajene

Member
Posts
11
My td4 2003 bmw M47 engine does not start some times despite cranking ok. Battery is good. Changed both Cam and crank sensors. Cleaned MAF sensor. When it starts it drives perfectly well no issues. But next moment it does not want to start even though the engine cranks fast and hard enough. I monitored the times when it starts I thought it only starts when its warm but temp of the day does not matter. It starts when cold or warm. So I dont know what wrong with it. Any help out there?
 
Do you have any fault codes? Could it be the lp pump? When installed a new fuel rail HP sensor it didn't start at first crank, so not sure if that might give problems as well. Might the connection be rusty or is there the overlay in?
 
Do you have any fault codes? Could it be the lp pump? When installed a new fuel rail HP sensor it didn't start at first crank, so not sure if that might give problems as well. Might the connection be rusty or is there the overlay in?
No faults pulled up when checked. Then it started again on it's own terms and driving ok no issues do far.

I m beginning to think it's the corroded contacts around the the pressure sensor or the first injector feed pipe leak. When I opened it I saw some oily spillage around it. Not sure if its diesel or oil. I will check tomorrow properly. I will also the fuel pressure sensor connections. Give you guys an update soon.
 
So today the td4 decided not to start after starting and driving well the whole of yesterday.
So I will check the pressure sensor and the hp pump.
 
So today the td4 decided not to start after starting and driving well the whole of yesterday.
So I will check the pressure sensor and the hp pump.
It's worth checking the LP pump too, it should run when the ignition is turned on, which you can normally hear by the RH rear wheel.
 
It's worth checking the LP pump too, it should run when the ignition is turned on, which you can normally hear by the RH rear wheel.
Thanks for your response . I will check that as well though each time the car does not start the LP pump is heard making the usual sound as when the car starts.
 
It's worth checking the LP pump too, it should run when the ignition is turned on, which you can normally hear by the RH rear wheel.
It started yesterday but I still went ahead to change the Lp pump on the rear right side wheel. To be honest I put back the old one I took off a long time ago when the car was running rough without power. I thought it was the Lp pump. So I bought a new one on ebay and replaced it. But now it seems the ebay pump has failed. When I replaced it earlier it did not solve the rough idling and low power issue. So I decided to check the injector electric connectors and discovered that the 2nd from left was loose. So I made it fit tight and the rough idling and low power issue was solved. Now that the low power was gone. I realised that the old LP pump was ok after all. So I kept it and it's the one I used today

Fingers crossed if it shows no starting problems then it was the LP problem.
 
It's worth checking the LP pump too, it should run when the ignition is turned on, which you can normally hear by the RH rear wheel.
Hey Nodge68
Just to update you on my progress with my td4 2003 2.0 ltr diesel starting issues. I did as you said. Bought new pressure regulator service kit and installed it. It started shortly after then went off and would not start. The tail gate window went down when I disconnected and reconnected the battery and it would not move up again. So I did some simple reset by removing negative terminal for 20 to 30 min while doors locked . After about 30 min reconnected battery, unlocked doors using fob , put key in ignition ,turn to Il position then back to off 3 times. The tail gate window worked after. Tried to start it it started and drove nicely again. I turned of and tried restarting it, it would not start despite cranking hard enough. I now suspect injector control unit connection is faulty. Any picture for the injector control unit? Any idea how to link the key fob after battery change. This problem seems to have appeared after I changed batteries.
 
Hey Nodge68
Just to update you on my progress with my td4 2003 2.0 ltr diesel starting issues. I did as you said. Bought new pressure regulator service kit and installed it. It started shortly after then went off and would not start. The tail gate window went down when I disconnected and reconnected the battery and it would not move up again. So I did some simple reset by removing negative terminal for 20 to 30 min while doors locked . After about 30 min reconnected battery, unlocked doors using fob , put key in ignition ,turn to Il position then back to off 3 times. The tail gate window worked after. Tried to start it it started and drove nicely again. I turned of and tried restarting it, it would not start despite cranking hard enough. I now suspect injector control unit connection is faulty. Any picture for the injector control unit? Any idea how to link the key fob after battery change. This problem seems to have appeared after I changed batteries.
How is it going?still playing up
 
Still playing up. So tomorrow I will try to check the condition of cable connections from ecu to injectors and check the heater plug relay if it exists in thi one.
This one is a bit worrisome usual suspects all done
I would have put money on the fuel pressure regulator cause all kinds of trouble
 
Good Day All

My Freelander 1, a 2002 model with 138000km on the clock. Still in very good condition. The vehicle will start and drive once the revs goes a bit high the engine light comes on and the engine cuts out. Switch on and off and it goes again. Since last Friday now it does not want to start anymore. The fuel Pressure visibly is pumping like crazy. Do not know anymore. Replaced pressure regulator on fuel rail. Tried to clean crank sensor, and put back and more.

Please any advice?

Greetings
Duvies
 
Good Day All

My Freelander 1, a 2002 model with 138000km on the clock. Still in very good condition. The vehicle will start and drive once the revs goes a bit high the engine light comes on and the engine cuts out. Switch on and off and it goes again. Since last Friday now it does not want to start anymore. The fuel Pressure visibly is pumping like crazy. Do not know anymore. Replaced pressure regulator on fuel rail. Tried to clean crank sensor, and put back and more.

Please any advice?

Greetings
Duvies
Sounds like a low pressure fuel pump issue. You need to check the low pressure fuel pumps (there are 2) are both running. Ideally you need to have access to a diagnostic reader that can give live data for that year of vehicle, as it's not OBD2 compliant.
 
Herewith the one that I know is pumping. The mechanic told me today that the HP is pumping so much that if he loosen piping that it pumps over the grill
 

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