TD4 Auto gear box problem?

Just for giggles - check that your rear brakes haven't locked on
- they are prone to bind - had that happen to me

Mark2 said:

Just for giggles - check that your rear brakes haven't locked on
- they are prone to bind - had that happen to me

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Certainly worth a try this. You never know.









And we could take the **** if they're locked on...

hiya

i dont know if this will help any, but several months ago my auto box was messing around something terrible, when i selected drive it didnt do anything then reved it and clonked into gear, got worse when it got hot.

first thing i got done was to have the oil changed they took the sump off so all the oil came out and refilled with the correct amount and grade.

im certainly not saying this is your problem but thought i may share the experiance i had.

touch wood since the oil was changed it drived like a different car, couldnt belive the difference very smooth and no more clonking.

the other guys on here are far more experainced than i am but would the selector on the gearbox be out of line. just a thought

gary

gstuart said:

hiya

i dont know if this will help any, but several months ago my auto box was messing around something terrible, when i selected drive it didnt do anything then reved it and clonked into gear, got worse when it got hot.

first thing i got done was to have the oil changed they took the sump off so all the oil came out and refilled with the correct amount and grade.

im certainly not saying this is your problem but thought i may share the experiance i had.

touch wood since the oil was changed it drived like a different car, couldnt belive the difference very smooth and no more clonking.

the other guys on here are far more experainced than i am but would the selector on the gearbox be out of line. just a thought

gary

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Thanks so much for all your opinions.

It seems to me like a full change of the gearbox oil should be the first thing to do then? Do you think its worth me getting this done by a main stealer, or would an independant know what they are doing. Ive heard that the box has to be between 35 -45 degrees? and if its not done properly, then it can cause more issues?

Dan

My guess would be something electrical. By all means try checking the oil level is correct, but at the end of the day a diagnostic check will do that for you (or they should in my opinion), and also link it to a computer to tell you if there’s a fault code. Most would read the codes, then clear them, and see if they return. Either way it’s going to cost you some £’s to find out what’s wrong. You could try independent to see if they’ll travel to your car, and use Test book to see if it’s reporting a fault. Oil changes have worked wonders for some, but I'm not sure if it will work this time.

I recommend you only use someone with experience of the Jatco box, who has the correct diagnostic equipment and who will guarantee their work. It's likely to be either a LR dealer workshop or an automatic gearbox specialist. Independent garages could be very willing to help but the bill may not end up any cheaper if they get it wrong or start guessing.

we have talked about f4 before hippo and it turned out to be water ingress into the multi pin connector in the harness , hippo your one is held together with a cable tie if i remember, perhaps one of your legendary pics might help.

Mark2 said:

Just for giggles - check that your rear brakes haven't locked on
- they are prone to bind - had that happen to me

Click to expand...

Hi there

Did you check for this? Gear selector in Neutral, hand brake off and see if you can push / move the car?

When one of the rear brake linnings separate from one of the the shoes they get stuck between the drum and the other shoe inside the brake drum. The car barely moves forward, and certanly not backward as the loose linning gets even more stuck. I've been there!! A h... of a job getting the drum off, but not as expensive as fixing the tranny.

Jarl

think dan mentioned somewhere it won't move in neutral.

freelance said:

we have talked about f4 before hippo and it turned out to be water ingress into the multi pin connector in the harness , hippo your one is held together with a cable tie if i remember, perhaps one of your legendary pics might help.

Click to expand...

Yep mines held together with 2 tie wraps and 2 hose clips used as securing points. I don't think he's getting F4. But it's worth a check on the connector as it's free. I got F4 when the connector came apart (dealer supplied broken clip on replacement gearbox side). Can also get F4 if you cut through the cables too, from memory. It seems his is trying to drive forward, but without result. Thats what happened when my connectors parted. Depending on how much, the F4 wasn't always there. **** meself when it happpened. Hence the hawkeye purchase.


DSC01080 PnqqrjE

Been thinking about this and the advice above about checking the rear brakes... Lift up the rear of the Freelander so the tyres are off the ground, and release the handbrake. Don't forget to chock the front wheels. Then turn one of the rear wheels. The rear wheel on the other side will turn in the oppersit direction, due to how the rear diff works, regardless of the auto being stuck in gear or faulty etc.

digitaldan said:

Hippo, that's really helpful (AGAIN).

.......The symptoms are very weird, in that when I initially put the car into drive when it happened, it pulled away through the gears perfectly, although as I mentioned it feels like the handbrake is on. Also, when the selector is in the neutral position, the wheels are locked, ie it wont free wheel. All gears including reverse give that slight jolt that you expect to get when correctly selecting a gear, although no actual drive happens, and it feels like it will stall unless you rev it hard.

Your help is really appreciated

Dan

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Hey Dan...

HAVE YOU CHECKED THE BRAKES YET ????

It's free, doesn't have to be towed anywhere, doesn't require an diagnostic plug in etc. etc. etc.

Ok lads, this is all so helpful.

Been full of cold the last couple of days, but am starting to feel human again today. I'm off now till Monday morning, so will have a good fiddle as of tmrw. The seized brake drum would also go along with the fact that the car wont free wheel in netral, and that all gears get selected fine. I suppose jacking up the car and manually turning the wheels would be the best way to see if this was the case?

Dan

Absolutely mate,

Jack up both sides at the same time so you get no effect from the 4 wheel drive system.

The front calipers can also bind

Easily checked - after a short drive,
stop and put your hand near the wheels - some warmth is usual (the disk will be hot), but if you can't even touch the wheel or you can smell burning, then you've got binding brakes.

Sometimes in life, it's the simple things

Mark2 said:

Absolutely mate,

Jack up both sides at the same time so you get no effect from the 4 wheel drive system.

The front calipers can also bind

Easily checked - after a short drive,
stop and put your hand near the wheels - some warmth is usual (the disk will be hot), but if you can't even touch the wheel or you can smell burning, then you've got binding brakes.

Sometimes in life, it's the simple things

Click to expand...

Mark,

Thanks mate for your help, its very much appreciated. What worries me is that I really don't want to drive the car in case I am doing more damage. Obviously thats ok if its the brakes, but I don't want to do any more damage to the gearbox, if thats where the fault lies.

DD

Quite right too

but,

your problem sounded suspiciously like locked on handbrake drum/s

so, if you have a good jack and a pair of axle stands then you have a free diagnostic

and,
if you are handy with tools, then a low cost repair

Rule this out first before you start fretting over expensive gearbox diagnosis/repair

Mark2 said:

Quite right too

but,

your problem sounded suspiciously like locked on handbrake drum/s

so, if you have a good jack and a pair of axle stands then you have a free diagnostic

and,
if you are handy with tools, then a low cost repair

Rule this out first before you start fretting over expensive gearbox diagnosis/repair

Click to expand...

Mark,

Brilliant,

I've got some axle stands, jack, etc, and am quite handy, so this won't be an issue. Fingers crossed, it would be a right result if that's all it is. Will do this tmrw morning, and report back. Hippo mentined that with the rear jacked up that the rear wheels should turn in opposite directions when manually turned. We'll see.

Thanks again.

DD

Don't be worrying about the wheels turning in opposite directions - that's just the effect of the differential

The main thing is to check that each wheel will freely turn with the handbrake off

The axle stands are a safety issue - many of us do it, but I've seen a car come off a Jack, so I now always put a firmly planted stand under

I really don't want to drive the car in case I am doing more damage.

No need to move the car to do the brake test. Chock the front wheels before you lift it.

Just shown the problem to a mechanic mate, and again the gearbox appears to be performing differently. When we pop it into reverse, you here the revs drop slightly, and the slight jolt, but no actual drive, no matter how many revs you give it, and it seems as though the ECU is limiting the ammount of revs available, ie with foot flat to the floor, there are only a couple of thousand revs available. I suppose this could be normal. Some sort of protection as it senses a fault..????

The forward gears now appear to do pretty much nothing, ie you select either 1,2,4 or D and the revs drop slightly (normal), but no slight jolt. This is odd considering I drove it back the day this happened (thursday), and it hasn't been driven since. Anyway, just thought I'd share that.

Just waiting on a trolley jack to check the drums. Didn't trust the standard jack.Will report back in the morning.

Dan